OrionStang

Nice fucking build. Don't think i've seen a walled Firebird that clean.

bump

After further searching, there are lvl 5's in 4th orders out there. Just need a place to start.

I guess 6th order is the one I meant I've been looking at alot of bandpass stuff and got mixed up. I saw the Italian DC rep with 5's in a 4th order on CACO, but don't know how it would sound. I'll hit up the guys suggested.

Thinking about trying out my lvl 5 12 in a 4th order. Can it be done? Should it be done? Where to start for front and rear box volume?

I'm just looking for loud and clear, I have 8's for midbass. I just found out that my price diff from the coax to the components will only be $20 more per set, so components it is, I just gotta deal with the wiring headache now.

I'm actually looking at the pictures as we speak. I think you're right, the components seem to be of better quality. EDIT: Side by side they are no that different. Hard to tell without holding both in my hands.

Anybody else? Will the components really sound that much better? Same power, same general tweeter location.

I've always wondered that... What would that come out to for the 6.5 components? It can vary from set to set. That means you won't know until you buy them. My Infinity sets came out to ~5 ohms wired in series. So it probably would be ~1.25 parallel. The RF's I want, no idea. Fortunately, I know someone that can test it for me if need be.

Do they have a new website with the new equipment? Where can I find specs and products?

Nowhere close to retail . The issue I have is the crossovers make for some crazy final ohm numbers, so wiring is a bitch.

$100 each set, or $180 for both sets. Shipped.

I'll be doing two sets of 6.5's for my doors. Each door will have the 2 drivers and 2 tweeters all mounted right next to eachother. Since the tweeters are right next to the mids anyway, can't I get the about the same sound from the coax's? My plan was for two sets of thesecomponents, but now i'm thinking about these6'5 Coax. Thinking about the change basically for getting the power I need from my amp and ease of wiring.

Just a heads up, I heard from a very reputable source, an authorized RF dealer, that there have been some issues with the crossovers in this component set. Because of that I am buying brand new with a warranty.

That shit looks like it gets down!! Excellent work having no rattle.

Bump. I need door panel moniez!!

Just bought a new deck. I need cash for my doors now.

You got a great girlfriend! Brand new T400-2's are only 239 at sonicelectronix.

Open to offers. No longer looking for trades, though.

You don't want to know what I let my 400-2 go for.

How about an H22 swap, again big turbo. Honda motors can be had for pretty cheap and are reliable.

Do you have a budget for this? What engine does the car have now? The 3.0 motor from an Eclipse with a big turbo would be doable. Or maybe a 4.6 FWD setup from a Caddy. Any swap in a front wheel drive will be some work. Good Luck.

audio que is the best check them out http://www.audioque.com/ Bold statement there, Tank.

DC 9k, a pair of Sundown 4500's maybe? I say stay away from SD and Stetsom, they are strong amps but you will have absolutely zero customer service.

OK, moving the switched power connection from the driver side dash to the SJB at the passenger kick solved the problem. Now, anyone care to explain how the same fucking wire has voltage drop on one side of the car and not the other?? AND, Ray used the wire under the driver side dash with no issue. Just my bad fucking luck I guess. Thank you to all those that chimed in here to help me out. Its good to go now. Saturday night beer for everyone!!! :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: :drinks: