Jump to content

OrionStang

S.O.T.M. Winner
  • Posts

    24314
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    73

Everything posted by OrionStang

  1. LMFAO. True knowledge level shines through.
  2. LOL at the 00-04 Mustang trying to play.
  3. Thats exactly the reason i'm working on a forward firing sealed off design. The flex looks cool, but I think i'm losing some deebeez. And I don't want broken trunk latches and hinges.
  4. Experience is king. I think running solid angle iron across the middle of the panels should make it solid. Thats what i'm thinking.
  5. I won't be taking it in and out all the time. But if I want it out, it can come through the trunk without getting busted up. The front will be nice and tight.
  6. Think I'm gonna do 1/2" birch with angle iron bracing. Trial and error right? If it works, great. If not, I get to build another box.
  7. The problem is I need that extra 1/2" for box volume. My width and depth are already maxed out. If I use 3/4, it will fit, but I will have only 1.4 cubes. With the thinner wood, my volume is 1.68, pretty close to almost too small. I need to be able to take it in and out through the trunk.
  8. i would say birch but that does cost a body part lol Im thinking Birch, too. Just save up a little for it. MAX height is 12.5. The box would be 13 high if I used 3/4 mdf. I can't lower overall height, because I lose too much volume and I want to be able to remove this thing. Yes, single 12 firing forward, it'll be sealed off of course.
  9. Alright, been doing some math and I can't build it 12.5" high. The top and bottom pieces gotta be max 1/2" so I can fit it in, get the airspace I need, and have the box be removeable. So besides NeoFrog's idea, is there a kind of wood I can use that won't flex at 1/2" thick? Some kind of hard wood that doesn't cost a body part.
  10. Thing is, its 12.5" high for only about the first 4 inches, then the axle hump drops down. I think i've come up with something else. Might use the metal idea, though.
  11. I've come up with a new box design that will allow me to fire my sub forward and seal it off. The only issue is I won't cut any metal and to make it fit i'll have to use 1/2"mdf for the top and bottom of the box. The rest of the box will still be 3/4" plus a double baffle. Will this work ok with enough bracing? Thinking I should resin the inside as well. Feedback please.
  12. This doesn't even begin to show how bad it really is, but you get an idea.
  13. Took it apart, cleaned and lubed it. Still a little noisy, but not near as bad as before. I got quoted $90 bucks for the part and labor. I could replace it my self, but its about time for a new computer anyway.
  14. Its a Sony VAIO, from about 3 years ago. Im gonna take it apart now, the noise is making me crazy.
  15. How long will my laptop last with the internal cooling fan disabled. It is making a loud annoying noise, like bad bearings I guess you could say. Its driving me nuts. I'm going to open her up and disable the fan if I can't repair it.
  16. Ricky- If I can squeeze it up in there. If not, i'll face it back. Alpine- Thanks, but budget plays in here, too. I know I can make it work, its hard without certain tools and a proper workspace. My garage doesn't even have power outlets. Apartment living sucks.
  17. Gonna build this next, sub back port back. Less volume per CJ's suggestion.
  18. I won't cut anything, but maybe bend some things. Not really worried about MECA, just want to get this thing as loud as it should be with this equipment. Not doing AS anyway. I have too many batteries and I like all thread for bracing. 2 cubes after everything. I'll try smaller, see what happens. Lots of people have said Mustangs don't score well. Box is solid man.
  19. If it were a different car, I would miss the wall. The equipment I have should get plenty loud for me. Just gotta find the right setup. The tiny opening is fail by Ford.
  20. Alright, got a design drawn up. I'll get to measuring in the car tomorrow. And maybe some metal bending and cutting.
×
×
  • Create New...