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G_skillz81

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Everything posted by G_skillz81

  1. thanks for the tip! I was wondering if there was a major difference as far as placement is concerned
  2. I'd run the nightshades...just to match my SAZ-1500D's that I got today (damn those are heavy for the size) PS My post-count too low to post pics or something?
  3. Guys, need some help with a box design got an itch to hit a comp less than 2 weeks away have a 2003 Dodge Ram reg cab some room behind the driver seat - 20"w 16.5"h 13"d sub - 10" TC Sounds TC9 based driver - 1000w rms (3" vc d2) amp - Celestra DA2k (2000+ watts @1ohm) Stock electrical - 136A alt. DieHard upfront, 0ga welding wire, Big 3 not sure if this needs to be here as I'm not shooting for an all out burp box, but I want the box to meter good just to see what this little sub can do I'm thinking sub up, port up (or to the side - behind the center console) Slot port is preffered (i know Aero's would be better, but I never had luck with them)...maybe external want to try the tricks such as the resin 45's can someone help me out with a design for a fee? or just throw some suggestions on internal volume and port dimensions sub specs Fs 35 Qts .45 Vas .45cf xmax 22mm Any benifit in running a second run of 0ga to the amp in my case? it pretty close, like 9-10' from the front bat....add an optima blue top by the amp? (meter with the car running) Any input will be highly appreciated
  4. so teh grass IS always greener on the other side ....point is - us european guys are chasing the US brands, and you're looking across the ocean for the next big thing...trust me on this - nothing special in those that you can't get from US brands at half the price (at the very least)....as far as being original - do a search on GZ - it has popped up in several discussions that GZ was founded in Germany by a former employee of .... specifically to avoid US patent laws Oh, and they are good subs...just grossly overpriced for the high-end stuff...the lower lines are your typical "china buildhouse" btw PS who wants GZ amps? I've got a couple mint GZPA 1.8000D's ...that i could let go for like $1600 (that's each ) shipping will be outrageous though
  5. yeah, so will the distance from the subs to the cutout...it's kinda like a bandpass from what I gather. Your vids are great BTW. good stuff... too bad I need to sell my quadcab - I'd wall it
  6. Ok, I got my accordian boot ordered http://www.trucknvans.com/CRL-Slider-to-Sl...-p/ed5381rl.htm I'm still debating on the 18's ...it looks like I can't get a second one like the one I have (my sub builder is out of the spiders used for that one). The version they are making now has dual spiders from the Adire Tumult, so I either have to get a recone, or two new subs. The dual spider version has the ability to hold more power and needs half the volume of the single-spider version. The trade off is higher Fs - 36 compared to 27. so I'm thinking...the 18's are still the best bang for the buck though (I'm overseas - shipping kills the cheaper subs or anything that doesn't have a neo)... I could get like 5 Sundown SA-12's for the price of the 2 18's - but overall the 18's should be more impressive (the motor is a TC3k)....what do you guys think?
  7. Thanks for the replys guys! really appreciated!! I've sent a pm to Patrick (pstone11) hope to hear from him soon I'll try to get under the truck during the week and see what is he max cut I can get in there. When looking at it before, I found 15" between the cab's braces (that's too much for the bed though). What is the distance between the wheelwells in the Ram BTW? 2Darren - great bulid! Did the MLA module make a big difference? I'm thinking about getting one. I will also be running RF T20001bd's (one per sub)
  8. Guys? who else could I pm for a design for $$ on the blowthrough? I'm not getting a response from James
  9. Thanks for the tip! I'm thinking I can fit them without a tilt... The MDF I'm using is close to an inch thick (I'm overseas, it's metric - 240mm. an inch is 254mm), so accounting for the top and bottom I have 19" to work with for the baffle. The only problem I potentially see is that the height of the cutout will probably be 12" max (what are the recomendations for the cut dimensions??) so that may really choke the airflow....or am I thinking too much?
  10. Whatsup everyone, new guy here...old question though...I'm in the midst of reading up the threads on the subject (will probably have a much better idea of what's what by the end of the weekend) Anyhow, the truck is a 2003 reg cab Ram with a hard bedcover First question - where to get the accordion boot to cover the gap in the cutout between the bed and the cab? I've searched for it, but could find any place that sells them Second question - I've got 21 inches of space under the cap...most people run 12's and 15's...can i run dual 18's firing forward? (the subs are custom built 18's on a TC Sounds TC3k motor - overall diameter is 18.5) - or is this not a good idea as the cutout will be noticeably smaller? (I think 15" is the max height of the cutout I can get in there). And it will be a tight fit witht the sub jammed tight against the top and bottom plates. Not a problem to switch subs really, but I do have one of the 18's already (beating in another ride). I am limited to TC3k motors but can get them as 12's or 15's....either that, or Adire Brahmas MKIV Box design - I'd be willing to pay for a set of blueprints ..I've pm'd James with a request already, but if any one wants to take a shot at it, holla at me
  11. x2 on where to get the accordion boot
  12. Wow! nice! Slightly offtopic, but do you have pics of the actual cutthrough? like from inside the bed, the cab and in the gap? I've got a 2003 Ram Regularcab and I'm thinking blowthrough within the next month and trying to get ideas and plan it all out. Actually joined the forum to search for info on that and bumped into your thread.. so, thought i'd ask
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