dustin_shull

yea the gm 60 degree v6's are famous about intake gaskets and head gasket failures... easy way to check if its the head gasket or intake gasket is to first check both fluids for contaminants (oil in antifreeze, antifreeze in oil), second, you can start the engine and pop the radiator cap and see if the fluid level fluctuates with the revolutions of the engine (compression seeping by the head gasket and going into the coolant jacket), and also smell the exhaust momentarily to see if it has a "sweet" smell to it....

sounds alot like a vacuum leak, and a fairly large one at that.....

3400 3.4 v6? or is it 3.8 v6?

well, it worked fine for us....lol. I wouldn't see why you couldn't make it work though.... its just a Colorado, not a complex unit.....lol. I understand that it's a liability for Performance Auto Group to not say whether or not the kit would fit, because if they did and for some reason something happens, they're responsible. That's why a lot of cheap junk ass internet parts that are out there, ship without instructions, because if there are instructions, they are liable for that part to at least half-ass fit. O btw, 1- that truck also has a 6" fabtech with a spacer also, 2: I did NOT pick out the tata twenty twos with the 37" Nitto Mud Grapplers

the Eibach 41035's look promising.....almost a solid 2" of drop.

are you worried about performance or mainly just drop?

well, if readylift says that it'll clear a 32...they're full of sh*t. It'll probably clear a 32 on-road only with a screwed up offset wheel that is as wide as a pizza cutter....i would safely say, go with just running the bars up a hair and try to install a 3" performance accessories body lift ( they only list for early models).... one thing that all the "leveling kit" manufactures neglect to include in their brochures is how the "leveling kit" is just a re-indexed torsion bar key that will allow the consumer the chance to crank the halfshafts up enough to cause them to prematurely wear out.....which equals---awesomeness.... But honestly, run the bars up, make the body lift work, you'll clear the tires on a 8,9.5,10" wide wheel...you won't have a lot of money into it, and everything you do is reversible.... it'll look sweet with 32x11.5s on 10s.... O btw, the bodylift....Perf. Acc. said that "the new tundra 3" lift" only fit a 07...well in 08, we put one on a 09....here it is----

to make life easier, you could get a painless universal tbi harness.... but honestly, i would rather have a speed density TPI set up for a STOCK SBC.... HOWEVER, if you plan on doing any kind of head/cam/ or block work, a good ol' fashion holley 4150 series carb is hard to beat.

well, the 96-00 vortecs are famous for multiple problems, such as egr valve, spider injector and assembly, fuel pressure regulator, etc..... however, it could be something minor, like a bad knock sensor playing with the timing or could be low fuel pressure from the pump....many things could cause this....

well, my opinion, i would go with a newer 24 valve 5.9 over a 6.7 for a few reasons. First off, the cost of ownership of a 5.9 rather than a 6.7 will be SUBSTANTIALLY less, the 5.9 gets better mileage, therefor is cheaper to operate, the 5.9 doesn't have a dpf that needs to be changed out at anywhere from 60,xxxish-100,000 miles and costs thousands to replace, there are no kind of emissions to worry about (egr, egr cooler,etc), replacement parts (ie. injection pump, injectors,turbo,etc.) are cheaper and more readily available for the 5.9,etc....etc.... HOWEVER, the 6.7 has it's strong points.... it is a better built motor as far as service intervals, better rod/main bearings, oiling system is better, etc..... but the 6.7 will never have the same capabilities as the 5.9 because it is choked down with all the "going green B.S.", which i do believe is a circle jerk- instead of "polluting" with "all the particulate matter", we'll just rob the earth of all its' natural resources with all the shitty mileage. The list goes on and on, but that's a brief belief i have on the new diesels. Another little 2 cents idea....i would try to get a Ford Super Duty, 99-04 7.3 for the decent engine and great truck....or a 6.6 Duramax truck, for the decent motor/trans and good cab but weak IFS, go crosseyed because of weak tie rod end, front end.....98.5-07 5.9 Dodge 2500-3500 for the cummins engine and o.k. truck and o.k. drivetrain.....

this is what i use everyday...it's expensive but works awesome. http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P6...amp;dir=catalog

Just wondering if anyone has used, is using, or has tested this amp? Crutchfield seems to have an awesome deal on these things and i was thinking about picking up a few..... Clarion Amp

I thought that this was pretty funny....Took a video earlier and noticed that the large hardee's cup i had setting in my truck was spinning around like mad @ 20hz..... and here's another vid to go along with it 2.....

man this thing is turning out crazy.... its probably gonna lean to the drivers side with all the 2/0 but, just wondering, are your alternators gonna hold up to all that RF powa???

I would go with airbags for a few reasons- First, there is no hydro-fluid to leak all over the place (it will leak eventually), second- airbags are way more supple of a ride, especially for an everyday driver, third-all replacement parts (i.e. fittings,air line) are more readily available, fourth- you don't have to haul around dozens of batteries to make it all work.......list goes on and on......and there are systems that are a "bolt in" system, that way you really can't mess anything up (as long as you use some common seance) .