STEvil

You need to enable the secondary display in your control panel, not adjust the resolution of your primary display.

use fiberglass resin to fix it, cant hurt. Cut the holes for 15 and put a V shaped peice at the back of the large port.. might still work pretty good Careful on the low notes at the start in case its ported way high. If it is you could add an L shaped piece at the back of each chamber (leading into the port) to drop the frequency a bit.

Glass the floor a bit and you could almost have a horn-style flared slot port

If it was a 2 channel amplifier and a crappy one, maybe. If your ohm load is greater than the lowest rated ohm load of the amplifier then in general you are safe for monoblock amplifiers. For bridged stereo amplifiers you need to double the ohm load (4 ohm single coil appears as 2 ohm single coil to a bridged stereo amp). There's a bit of leeway though due to impedance rise (box type, coil temperature, number of coils, average coil movement, frequency.. etc).

How about point the subs to the sides (2 each side) and ports to cab? Or flip it around and give it a try (subs to sides, ports to back). 1 big port would be best.

Working my way through the BLS catalogue.. "Fear" makes my dash do things that most other songs cant! lol!

4 10's will fit if you face them forward. Really tight fit........ More pics: http://s216.photobucket.com/albums/cc232/S...re%2010%20box1/

Silverado singlecab? easy to get loud lol.. Got 2KW on my pair of MA Audio HardKore 18's and they get plenty loud in my Chevy 2500 Extended cab.

250w? do the big 3. And your alt could already be on the way out. Go to a wrecking yard and grab a second alt for cheap. Put it in place of the AC if you have it. If not slap together a bracket.

Dont do it. Quick way to blow subs and amps.

Towed things with 285/75/R16's on my '94. Roughly 33" tall in understandable numbers.

I remember when 1000W was a lot.. I think i'm gonna get another amp and give it to my bro so i can have my old RF 200x2 back lol. Good old carpet cookers

I'd use one, would be fun There's a vid of one on youtube in a small car with just a free air baffle and it gets moving pretty darn nice. Just search 34" sub and you'll find it likely.

Only reason you could draw "too many amps" through that would be poor connection (resistance causes heat) or a short to ground. That wire you're using should handle that amp without even blinking.

A weak or bad alternator is a weak or bad alternator. If you have a weak or bad battery you'll likely find out about it before a good alt is damaged. edit - and you cant overcharge batteries unless you are using too high of voltage.

If wiggling them causes the sub to jolt on and off then there is likely a wire grounding out somewhere or the coils may have shorted together. Make sure your wires are clean all the way from the amp to the sub and all connections between (no ends poking out all over touching things they shouldnt) and that the connections at each terminal (on sub, box, and amp) are all clean. I'm going to bet there is a loose wire inside the box.

Hopefully the coils are series on each sub (dual 4 ohm coil). Then subs bridged to the amp.. probably are otherwise it would be dead by now.

test the speakers by putting a 9v batter on their terminals.. if the cone moves easily and without a lot of scratchy noise they're probably fine. Volume levels fading or cutting out due to heat (or voltage drop) is nothing new for head units... my Pioneer does fades but doesnt cut out. Wish the manufacturers would put better heatsinks on them.

You would need one hell of a resistor. A better way would be to use a cap system that can take a 24v input and put out 12-18v... use a bunch of rectifiers, diodes, and a couple massive coils and you'll get it done much easier than finding a resistor that can handle 6-12KW... edit - Reminds me i've got some ballasts packed away in a corner that can put out 18v from a 24v source.. i'd ship them to you but that would be expensive and I need to test a few of them if they are any good or not haha.

Ed - I agree, just attempting to straighten it out a bit, the "owned" thing I find a bit childish and unproductive.

Actually he didnt get owned. When the vehicle is running the power is coming from both the alternator(s) and batterie(s), one as charging cycle and the other as charged capacity. Electricity follows the path of least resistance and will not go from alt to battery to amp. It will pass across the terminals of the battery due to wiring configuration and excess amperage draw that the alternators cannot cover will come from the batteries. Lean amperage draw will mean charge capacity for the batteries.

Put a hook-latch on the top of the doors with an external nut you can turn to tighten a J shaped bolt to lock into it and hold the doors closed

Making a box too big isnt bad, just cut up some MDF to use as "filler" and add it internally to the box to take up the extra space. On a side note, decreasing internal volume without modifying the port will decrease tuning frequency. Can always mod the port later. Yes bracing counts as filler.

Friend had 2 tornados go past her house.. not in Cali though.

Maybe a bit close if its a low res monitor (1280x720 or something...) I'm using a 30" 2560x1600 and its ok near that distance. Remember we aren't dealing with CRT's anymore