ChevyBoy95
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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95
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set it with -5db. Plus, the amount of wattage dissipated as heat on a sub woofer coil is tremendous. A little warm isn't bad, when they get hot then you need to tone it down.
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box looks good, not too much, but not too little port area, good volume. i say build it.
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Hi fellas, im lookin into powering 15 12' thump subs with a sony explod 100w peak/ 20,000w rms amplitude. I just need to know how i would go about wiring this setup. Jow many wires do i have to buy? Can i find some goid wires at walmart? Im putting my system in a 1963 buick. I know all of this will cost at least 10 grand... But im willing to spend the money to get the highest quality products money can buy. Im also looking to get some good 9' in speakers to put in my car dash of the car. I wanted the biggest speakers possible for that. I only measured 23 in along the car-dash with a measuring that i won at target the other day. I still want room for other stuff. So i could only surrender 18ins.
I just need advice on how to wire my thump subs to my batterys ima buy so they can "thump". Lol
my new sig right HEEEEEEEEEEEERE
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nice amp kyle, GLWS
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Is it absolutely necessary to ground the dd1 on the amplifiers ground. i would have to take my car halfway apart to get there is why i ask.
amp ground.... like on the negative terminal of the amp, not the bolted down spot.
but if you cant get to that, use the CLOSEST grounding location, like a battery bank if that is closer.
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could use it for desktop speakers, dont need much wattage there.
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shouldnt be the alarm. I have a viper and have left it in the driveway, alarm on and armed, for weeks and voltage will rest only .2v lower that 12.9v, and Cranks right up.
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that BL is retarded. 30+ is unreal
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infinity?
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You said that you unstrapped amps.. so did you only wire one amp? You should try wiring up ONLY the other amp and see if the problem persists. If it does, then theres your problem.
already have, and the problem goes away.
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OK, doesnt do it when single amps are used. So it has something to do with in strapping/linking of these amplifiers. I emailed the manufacturer to see if this is typical behavior or not. The amps i am using (opti3201s) are strappable.
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Pl construction adhesive comes in a caulk tube
ok, when i get to moving amps around and batteries, ill slid the box forward and get those done. Probably use 2in of MDF (and MDF so i can carpet it or something and make it look nice.
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going to try it with the amps not strapped. i.e. 1 amp only.
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sub isnt even mine, and it was sold by the guy who originally posted those pics a while ago
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with new turn on relay set up = still does it
using the one of my HIghs RCA's = still does it
switched the master and slaves around = still does it
im so fucking lost, probably something with the amps. But what i dont get is once they turn on, if you go lower in volume it stays on like bass normally would, but until i hit that turn on point, i get nothing.
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i heard a bunch of tennis balls shoved between the cab and the bed works pretty well.
tried that with a weaker system.... didnt do shit.
guess ill go the MDF/2x4 route, i have about 2in from the bump below the back window to where the back of the cab below is.
again, what is the best way to attach it?
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2x4s
i knew you were going to chime in and say that.
what is the best way to affix them to the back wall?
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better quality or more deadener
no. back wall has more than enough to the point of wasting it. edit, and it is 80mil. the sheet metal itself is moving and causing the noise more than anything, almost like a flapping sound, on my peakier notes.
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The back of my cab flexes in and out about .25in each direction and was wondering what people without full walls do to prevent it? (moves the closest wall of the bed too)
also, the side of the inside of my cab flexes and it is opposite the port side and it had deadener and padding behind it yet still seems to make noise, what would be the best fix besides total panel removal?
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#1 - when you touch the DMM leads together it will read X amount of ohms. (for example say .5 ohms)
#2 - Put the leads into the respective push terminals on the subwoofer and check the ohm load (for example say 2.3 ohms)
#3 - Subtract the #1 figure from the #2 figure ( so 2.3 ohms - 0.5 ohms = 1.8 ohms)
so 1.8 ohms is the resistance of the coil
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around 12k and 4 level 5 15s..... yet you dont know what electrical you need......
i would get 1 3000.1, and 1 level 5 15. And go from there.
Even 3k will need a nice alt and rear battery.
But with what you are thinking, it will be about 2G's in electrical, not including wire to run that much power, maybe more.
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the ones i can get are powersafe batteries, made by enersys, tell me a little bit more about your batts, how mane of them? what's your voltage drop?
2 147ah, and a 78ah, 200a alt. running about 4.5k (highs included)
full tilt from 14.2 to 13.8v (at idle)
14.2 to 14v 1200rpm
C&D and Powerware (which i think is a C&D essentially) around 100lbs each.
Go to 3:28, voltage is a bit higher because truck wasnt running long. but 14.3v to 14v full tilt on a low 30hz note. (AT IDLE, so around 125amps from the alt)
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i use C&D which are UPS batts, fuckin tanks, but they are also 147ah each.
dustcups get alittle warm?
in Sundown Audio - GREAT Amps/Subs! GREAT Customer Service!
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It is good that his system is EXACTLY LIKE YOURS, WITH THE EXACT SAME ELECTRICAL/SUBS/WIRING/AMPS. Depending on the wave forms amplitude, -10 isnt ok, playing bass boosted songs on -10 isnt the smartest thing to do..