ChevyBoy95

I don't mean to pick, but what are you asking suggestions/feedback of? Electrical upgrades, box design (which it seems like youre already set on), running 2 12's on a 2500, etc.? Just not sure what you are asking.

Yea, just got busy. Two kids, got married, etc. Life happened. But ive still got the truck and the 4 15's with the 12k's. Just doesnt see much road time.

Why didnt you try enclosure changes instead of EQ's for the bass amp? The enclosure is by far the biggest component to dictating how the subwoofer will sound.

You can wire the second battery in parallel to the existing battery. The main concern typically is the difference in battery technology (lead acid as OEM and AGM for aftermarket). In reality, there isnt anything special you need in between the stock battery and the new AGM. The only suggestion I would make is in a few years when the stock fails (due to age and use), to replace it with a like in kind battery to the AGM. Your battery wont get "too much charge". Alternators only output to what they are asked. If you arent blasting music, they will have a low output to supply the bare minimum the car is asking for (A/C, lights, radio, etc.) and when you crank the volume it will output more as it sees a larger "load" and output as much as it can up to 220a to do whatever it can to try to maintain good voltage.

x2 on this. They need enough rpm's to start outputing. You can change the pulley size to help speed this up without changing the engine rpm. (if the alternator pulley is smaller it will spin faster at the same engine rpm). I ran in to this a bit with my chevy as in drive it would idle around 600 rpm.

Can you post a picture of the engine bay? I did a custom dual alt bracket for the 95 with a 350 that I have used for like 10 years now with no issues.

See my comments in red. In addition, if you cant buy the battery and HO alt at the same time, I would get the HO alt first, HO alts are a huge upgrade to any system.

Can you post the dimensions you have to work with?

If that's the case, I don't it making a huge different with the added mids/highs amps. If it was a jump in bass amp size, you probably would see some change. Mids/highs will be a lot more dynamic where-as the sub stage will create a more consistent load on the electrical system.

On surface level, it looks like you'll be okay, but likely going to need to grab another D3400. And if you are going at it wide open, you will need every bit of that alternator output. What is the current wattage you are running?

If you are using 3/4" wood, that ask is physically impossible to achieve. Either give up more room or drop the double baffle. I used your given max space and using every bit of it without the double baffle barely gets you there... barely.

1. What type of input are you using? RCA's? Speaker level inputs? 2. If you aren't clipping the unit, do you know what VAC you are getting into the unit before turning its gain up? Say at max volume if you headunit only outputs 1VAC and the internal gain of the DM810 isnt high enough to hit the output rails and "clip". Just because there is no clip light being shown doesn't inherently mean a fault. 3. If you want real real help, you have to provide some better details than what is in the original post. Its hard to start when we don't even know where the starting line is. Headunit model Settings of the headunit model How the signal gets to the DM810 How you are measuring the output signal of DM810 "how to properly set my gains inside the processor" as in through software? etc. Need more info.

Interested to hear the answer to these questions as well. Unfortunately I have to add that the same happened to a D680 I put in my daily that has only been in for about 4 months. Trying to work through the RMA process now even though their warranty specifically calls out they do not cover leaking. Came out and looked like the carpet in my car was wet and the top of the battery was wet all around the vents under the sticker.

Kyle , pm Jeffrey Hald on fb or swordlordboy (?) on here. He is about to run 2 of them in his SQ car... like a legit SQ car.

thanks. We shall see once I play with the ports for a bit.

I use flickr, Since i have a yahoo account it is free and has no adds.

So yea, guess it is more popular than I thought.

I use an oscope now, but back when I had a DD-1, the old HD6500 I had would throw the distortion light at any volume (probably due to noise in the amp) which couldnt be heard through the subs, but the dd-1 picked it up as distortion.

For what it is worth, I have a 2.5+ KDR with a 1.7 W/L playing mostly solo and run 3-5 sensitivity.

You sure your sensitivity is correct? Those are just for fine adjustment, but can easily be played without. More of a feel thing, I tried them and hated them. Start a private lobby with bots and run around with a gun you like, use it at whatever range it should be used (SMG - short to medium, Rifle - med to long in most cases) and see what causes you to not land your shots (on bots you should be hitting almost every bullet). Do you sweep from left to right/right to left past before correcting back? Sens is too high. IF you play mostly SMG, run a higher sens, like 6-8, if mostly rifles, like 4-6. But then again it is all feel. I would try changing just your vertical sensitivity alone (but think you just need to play more to get used to it), but if you are accidentally moving it up and down, could be you arent comfortable with the controller yet in faster paced FPS settings.

Yea, just keep in mind, with a smaller alternator set up and bigger bank, if voltage gets low, it takes a bit longer to charge up than multiple alternators on lesser number of batteries. All in all, it is easily doable to do what you want to do. Buy some batts, aluminum or copper bar stock, drill and tap, and your ready to go.

As someone who has ran that much power, I had dual alts (320 and a 270a) and 6 group 31's plus stock group 34 to stay in the low 13's and high 12's. You could probably get away with 5 - 6 batteries on 1 alterator

Dont get hung up on voltage, current is king (whether you charge at 13.9 or 14.5 aint going to make a difference when the knob go to the right). Voltage under load is all that matters, and raising your unloaded voltage is almost useless.

I would NEVER advise mounting an amplifier to a box (something that vibrates). One of the biggest causes of failure for amplifiers is vibration.