ChevyBoy95

Kyle , pm Jeffrey Hald on fb or swordlordboy (?) on here. He is about to run 2 of them in his SQ car... like a legit SQ car.

thanks. We shall see once I play with the ports for a bit.

I use flickr, Since i have a yahoo account it is free and has no adds.

So yea, guess it is more popular than I thought.

I use an oscope now, but back when I had a DD-1, the old HD6500 I had would throw the distortion light at any volume (probably due to noise in the amp) which couldnt be heard through the subs, but the dd-1 picked it up as distortion.

For what it is worth, I have a 2.5+ KDR with a 1.7 W/L playing mostly solo and run 3-5 sensitivity.

You sure your sensitivity is correct? Those are just for fine adjustment, but can easily be played without. More of a feel thing, I tried them and hated them. Start a private lobby with bots and run around with a gun you like, use it at whatever range it should be used (SMG - short to medium, Rifle - med to long in most cases) and see what causes you to not land your shots (on bots you should be hitting almost every bullet). Do you sweep from left to right/right to left past before correcting back? Sens is too high. IF you play mostly SMG, run a higher sens, like 6-8, if mostly rifles, like 4-6. But then again it is all feel. I would try changing just your vertical sensitivity alone (but think you just need to play more to get used to it), but if you are accidentally moving it up and down, could be you arent comfortable with the controller yet in faster paced FPS settings.

Yea, just keep in mind, with a smaller alternator set up and bigger bank, if voltage gets low, it takes a bit longer to charge up than multiple alternators on lesser number of batteries. All in all, it is easily doable to do what you want to do. Buy some batts, aluminum or copper bar stock, drill and tap, and your ready to go.

As someone who has ran that much power, I had dual alts (320 and a 270a) and 6 group 31's plus stock group 34 to stay in the low 13's and high 12's. You could probably get away with 5 - 6 batteries on 1 alterator

Dont get hung up on voltage, current is king (whether you charge at 13.9 or 14.5 aint going to make a difference when the knob go to the right). Voltage under load is all that matters, and raising your unloaded voltage is almost useless.

I would NEVER advise mounting an amplifier to a box (something that vibrates). One of the biggest causes of failure for amplifiers is vibration.

i think they do have their hazards on

most dont do own installs and probably roasting equipment constantly. Kinda doubt any of these systems are on "real" power. Running say 5-6kw at idle and holding 13+ is easy to do without much charging, just need batts. Seems to be more about how loud can I get this trashcan full of rocks to sound rather than how actually loud it is (most of us look for bass with no rattle, but tearing metal is part of it; I knew some local shop owners who said people came to him to add in loose metal into trunks to make it "louder").

If i cover her face with my thumb, all i see is a guy in a sports bra.... so.... nah.

Ive never had an issue. 1/0 with 50mm die and 2/0 with 70mm die on the 16 ton set. 2/0 70mm die would probably work well for 1/0 car audio wire with ~5000 strands where as 1/0 welding is more like 1 gauge. Picture I attached is EB Flex 2/0 (68mm cable) with the 70mm die with 2/0 marine lug.

the 16 ton i bought had dies up to like 4/0 or even slightly bigger down to 4ga ish https://www.walmart.com/ip/16-Ton-Hydraulic-Wire-Crimper-Crimping-Tool-11-Dies-Battery-Cable-Lug-Terminal/145563750?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=1913&adid=22222222227049612140&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=145288902470&wl4=pla-264539632492&wl5=9027670&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=113510113&wl11=online&wl12=145563750&wl13=&veh=sem 6 gauge to 600MCM

No, depends on too many factors to count.

The dude? with the hitler stache?

exactly, if you need aids for that kind of stuff, you shouldnt have a license.

You can tell they tried hard to change up the format a bit, but really its the same damn show. Intro I thought was gratuitous, but still love watching the new top gear with a new title. yea, it's a formula that doesnt really need to charge. i feel like the show will get better/funnier/etc as time goes on as they get comfortable again in the new format.

Well, electrons flow from the "negative" to the "positive" which is taught as electron flow/current. The other way is current flows from "positive" to "negative" which is called conventional current. Which one you use to think is irrelevant, as long as you know which is which. http://web.engr.oregonstate.edu/~traylor/ece112/beamer_lectures/elect_flow_vs_conv_I.pdf

You would in reality need a scope to be sure. But generally brands stick to a certain way. Alpines generally need sub level at max, kenwoods are at 0, not sure on pioneers though. Without knowing, I would leave it at zero since when you DD-1 the amp it will compensate with the gain to still give you the max unclipped ACV out of the amplifier.

http://i.imgur.com/mAIyc5F.gifv edit: ^^worth the watch

Rims are all personal preference man,We're all entitled to our own opinion. Yea, I think they look pretty sweet. Would be cool to see a photoshop or render of them on the vehicle though.

only 4 almost full strides.... lol, basketball is my favorite sport, but the NBA is a fucking joke.