ChevyBoy95

I don't mean to pick, but what are you asking suggestions/feedback of? Electrical upgrades, box design (which it seems like youre already set on), running 2 12's on a 2500, etc.? Just not sure what you are asking.

1. What type of input are you using? RCA's? Speaker level inputs? 2. If you aren't clipping the unit, do you know what VAC you are getting into the unit before turning its gain up? Say at max volume if you headunit only outputs 1VAC and the internal gain of the DM810 isnt high enough to hit the output rails and "clip". Just because there is no clip light being shown doesn't inherently mean a fault. 3. If you want real real help, you have to provide some better details than what is in the original post. Its hard to start when we don't even know where the starting line is. Headunit model Settings of the headunit model How the signal gets to the DM810 How you are measuring the output signal of DM810 "how to properly set my gains inside the processor" as in through software? etc. Need more info.

Interested to hear the answer to these questions as well. Unfortunately I have to add that the same happened to a D680 I put in my daily that has only been in for about 4 months. Trying to work through the RMA process now even though their warranty specifically calls out they do not cover leaking. Came out and looked like the carpet in my car was wet and the top of the battery was wet all around the vents under the sticker.

Kyle , pm Jeffrey Hald on fb or swordlordboy (?) on here. He is about to run 2 of them in his SQ car... like a legit SQ car.

I use flickr, Since i have a yahoo account it is free and has no adds.

So yea, guess it is more popular than I thought.

I use an oscope now, but back when I had a DD-1, the old HD6500 I had would throw the distortion light at any volume (probably due to noise in the amp) which couldnt be heard through the subs, but the dd-1 picked it up as distortion.

For what it is worth, I have a 2.5+ KDR with a 1.7 W/L playing mostly solo and run 3-5 sensitivity.

You sure your sensitivity is correct? Those are just for fine adjustment, but can easily be played without. More of a feel thing, I tried them and hated them. Start a private lobby with bots and run around with a gun you like, use it at whatever range it should be used (SMG - short to medium, Rifle - med to long in most cases) and see what causes you to not land your shots (on bots you should be hitting almost every bullet). Do you sweep from left to right/right to left past before correcting back? Sens is too high. IF you play mostly SMG, run a higher sens, like 6-8, if mostly rifles, like 4-6. But then again it is all feel. I would try changing just your vertical sensitivity alone (but think you just need to play more to get used to it), but if you are accidentally moving it up and down, could be you arent comfortable with the controller yet in faster paced FPS settings.

Yea, just keep in mind, with a smaller alternator set up and bigger bank, if voltage gets low, it takes a bit longer to charge up than multiple alternators on lesser number of batteries. All in all, it is easily doable to do what you want to do. Buy some batts, aluminum or copper bar stock, drill and tap, and your ready to go.

As someone who has ran that much power, I had dual alts (320 and a 270a) and 6 group 31's plus stock group 34 to stay in the low 13's and high 12's. You could probably get away with 5 - 6 batteries on 1 alterator

Dont get hung up on voltage, current is king (whether you charge at 13.9 or 14.5 aint going to make a difference when the knob go to the right). Voltage under load is all that matters, and raising your unloaded voltage is almost useless.

I would NEVER advise mounting an amplifier to a box (something that vibrates). One of the biggest causes of failure for amplifiers is vibration.

No, depends on too many factors to count.

You can tell they tried hard to change up the format a bit, but really its the same damn show. Intro I thought was gratuitous, but still love watching the new top gear with a new title. yea, it's a formula that doesnt really need to charge. i feel like the show will get better/funnier/etc as time goes on as they get comfortable again in the new format.

You would in reality need a scope to be sure. But generally brands stick to a certain way. Alpines generally need sub level at max, kenwoods are at 0, not sure on pioneers though. Without knowing, I would leave it at zero since when you DD-1 the amp it will compensate with the gain to still give you the max unclipped ACV out of the amplifier.

yea, looks like a m1 lvl 5. If you could measure slug diameter meter and height, we would give you a 100% sure answer.

No, it is not the same thing. You would actually need more amperage to create the 6k @ .5 than it would to do it at 1 ohm due to efficiency loss at .5.

09, almost 7 years (6 years and 8 months)

The double? The length in the direction of the ANL, which would be the same whether for 1 fuse or 100.

What is the length of one of these? (in the direction the ANL fuse lays.)

Get better soon, hope whatever you had going on is better.

I guess Ill just reiterate. 1. Yes 2. The belt size in most cases wont change even with the smaller pulley 3. No, you should not see any extra wear on the belt from it being a H/O alt 4. Generally no, but that depends on the engine and draw (You do loose hp under load, but generally not enough to notice)