ChevyBoy95
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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95
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I just want to let everyone no that i never knew i was getting a 370 amp alt. if i knew that right from the start i wouldn't of never made this or said anything about shipping. I know it looks like im bashing but i really wasn't trying to. Im happy y'all are fixing it and im sorry for what seems to be a little misunderstanding and me being impatient. i would like to delete the whole thread but i don't know how. Sorry mechman i know yall are a good company now and i feel like a complete dick for making this.
Which is why we constantly tell new members to deal WITH the company and not make a useless fucking threads.
Good day sir, and good job mechman
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Who does the install work? looks good...
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Patience my friend. Some companies take months to get products from... An depending on te quality, people are happy to wait. As far as mechman, they will take care of you, just be patient, maybe send another email I a few days if no response, and I mean a few work days.
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meh, i dont care, if you set up a place ill contribute and what not.
and i have that same connection error deal, but can still connect and works 100%
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Certified RMS @ 1ohm (test stops @ 1% distortion) - 1500watts
un-certified RMS @ 1 ohm (test stops @ clipping) - 1700 watts
dynamic burst RMS @ 1 ohm (test stops @ clipping) - 1725 watts
dynamic burst RMS @ .8 ohms (test stops @ clipping) - 1805 watts6730
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noob tubes are for faggots.... end of story.
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Hot tub last night
No and No!
Lol.. All beer is like water in utah
corona is piss, end of story....
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how do you get survival?
I can switch you to survival if you want it
yea do it, that would be cool.
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are you talking about an IB setup?
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he can go set stuff on fire on another forum.... man he will be missed....
hahahahahahahahaha
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I've said this right here. And most times, get crickets. Lol.
edit: and you will want your epicenter flat when you set the gains. And remember, it is better to lower the peaks, then it is to boost the valleys in a response curve with an epicenter.
But you are correct. Don't boost. Lower surrounding freqs.
lol, i just said that.... haha.
but it is good to see multiple people on the same page.
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I would do the LC-1 after the epicenter personally.
x2.
The best thing to do is either with a DD-1 or a scope.....
check for signal clipping after the HU, then check for signal clipping after the epicenter on full volume un clipped HU volume, Then with HU at full unclipped and epicenter at full unclipped, plug into the LC-1 and max out the LC-1 knob, then plug the RCA's into the amp and set the amps gains. LC-1 doesnt alter the signal, it just regulates the voltage.
edit: and you will want your epicenter flat when you set the gains. And remember, it is better to lower the peaks, then it is to boost the valleys in a response curve with an epicenter.
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4 is the end goal, but for now 3 D3100s will hold me at 13v full tilt. I still at 12.4-12.5v full tilt right now on most songs.
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I've been playing around with it and I get 2 xp3000s and a s3400 for a starter. Would that really be enough with a 270a alt to maintain 13.0v at max draw?
You are not going to stay at 13V at max 6-7K watt draw with a 270amp alt. You will drop into the 12V range. 12V batteries only rest at 12.9V. So on a 600amp draw you would have lets say 230amps from the alt going to the system (40 to run the vehicle with ac and all the electrical) and the rest pulling from the batteries. That would be 370amps coming from the three batteries or approx 123 amp per battery. That will put you in the 12V range. Only way to stay in the 13V range is to have a lot more alt power.
well, have a 3rd D3100 on the way...... should be here tomorrow.
and here are the pics of the ones i got a couple weeks ago...
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shit thats weak. You aint lived til you hit a wrench against the positive and negative of a battery bank. Good time let me tell ya.
did that two days ago, almost shit myself. i usually wrap the handles in electrical tape.
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camber = retarded....
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Steve's son? Na. Not sure what made you think that.
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all the fun is people talking shit then running a train on their team game after game and laugh as they rack up a loosing streak.
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you explain then
The battery works when the car is connected to the battery, electrons are allowed to flow. 3 things in bat. There are 2 connectors that go out of the battery. These are called the cathode and anode. There is also a solution that the cathode and anode sit in (Battery Acid). When used a chemical reaction occurs between the acid and the anode (positive terminal) which releases electrons that flow through the circuit. These reenter the battery through the cathode (negative terminal) where another chemical reaction is happening between the cathode and solution. The electrons are incorporated in the products of this reaction.
in car batts the cathode is lead dioxide (PbO2), the anode is a sponge of lead (Pb), and the solution is sulfuric acid (H2SO4). When the battery is being used, the 2 connections react to form lead sulfate (PbSO4) by reacting with the sulfuric acid.
When a battery dies, it is because one or more of the chemical reactants is more or less used up or is lost somehow due to leaks or other loss.
if its not connected, there is no way for electrons to be made to keep battery alive.
also there can be sulphation that can occur on the plates which slows or stops the reaction.
yes if the battery was made so poorly with bad material, the plates may warp or touch due to shock? which would short the battery i believe. but usually there are 6 seperate cells so chances of that happening arent great, i would think
yep 6 2v cells
and for those who dont know what sulfation is, when batteries are in use, small sulfate crystals form (as part of its reaction), normally this isn't a big deal, but during charge deprivation (long time with low voltage), the lead sulfate converts to a stable crystalline (solid) that deposits on the negative plates causing build up of large crystals (BAD). As the amount of large crystals build up on the plates, it will reduce the battery’s active material that is responsible for high capacity and low resistance.
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And now for something totally different:
"Yeah, well.....you know, that's like uhh.... your uhh, opinion.....man."
if you guys are wondering where that's from:
Lmao, mark it a ZERO!
You're entering a world of pain.
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it is whatever you prefer. I have a 95 chevy that has 225k miles, no major repairs, just oil, brakes, tires, etc (1 prev owner, family friend). The normal check list. Also a 98 GMC with 216k, same deal (brothers, 1 prev .owner who was a family friend). So in my case, i have had great luck with GMC/Chevy, so im a chevy guy. For some reason fords other than the boxy style from the early 90s to 80s gets me goin. Same with chevy's though. Cant stand newer body styles in general... no character like the 70s-80s.
i like these kind
wouldnt mind having one of these though. Buddy down the street has a 71 with the 454 SS. Thing is a beast.
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Couple sketches i did recently. Mostly graphite, and just for fun.
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FREE EDUCATION
in D'Amore Engineering - High Quality Car Audio Installation Tools & Accessories
Posted
Not to be an ass, but the opinion pushed is being backed by REAL WORLD TESTING, not on paper. yes as a DIRECT comparison, OFC > CCA, but for current carrying capacity (not resistance), for the cost CCA is better. You can do 3 runs of CCA for the price of 1 Run of OFC. OFC will carry 300 max, CCA will carry close to 600.