ChevyBoy95
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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95
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Thanks guys. Will be ordering soon and update this with some pics
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anyone? thinking of 2 D3100's and a S3400, but seems like not much battery to do a whole lot. Kinda tight on budget as well, i can get what I posted, but would have to save up a bit for more.
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I've been playing around with it and I get 2 xp3000s and a s3400 for a starter. Would that really be enough with a 270a alt to maintain 13.0v at max draw?
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Mine, 1995 Chevy ext cab. Realistically like 800rms for Mids, 4500rms for bass, but I like overkill more than just enough
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Equipment:
Addictive Audio 500.1 @ .67 ohms
PPI BK800.4
7krms is for cushion
This is for a daily set up, just want to stay in the high 12s and low 13s full tilt on music.
Have a 270a alt, not sure what it does at idle, but it will be played while driving so idle is no biggie.
What im looking to do is see what I would need, basically trying to refresh my reserve.
I dont want this to factor in, but for whatever it is worth, will probably have dual 270's in the near future.
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but anywhoooooo,
great looking ride steve, love the plastidip on the 24s.
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It looks damn good inside looks nice but damn 180k miles thats a ton
no it isnt. The national average is 15k a year, 180k is just over 16k a year average. Then depending on if it highway miles or not, stop and go, etc. My truck had 204k when I got it, 224k now, still runs like a champ. As long as a vehicle is taken care of, regular oil changes, little maintenance and greasing, it will last until the floor rots out.
edit: info has changed a bit, here is the info link. 20-54yrs old is 15k. If it had a male owner, 16k a year is under driven by this standard.
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truth.
just because strong men are trying to get strong and a bodybuilder is trying to build his body does not mean they are weak by any means...
you obviously missed the point.
yeah i did. everyone makes bodybuilders out to be weak. they should add a third person in that picture.... "the guy who talks shit about lifters but doesnt lift.
lol, you are still missing the point.
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ok aside from the obvious that i did everything wrong.. woofer still plays my concern is do i need a recone ? im not gonna play music on it untill i get evrything right .. i have an oscope on the way someone replied in the other post saying that the coil might have been bubbling? anyone is familiar with that ?
the bubbling i stated in the other, i saw first hand, and Rusty explained it to me (the owner of DC). The massive heat build up can cause gasses while the resin/glue starts to melt and evaporate on the windings, with the flatwound coils, there is no where for this gas to go, so it takes the path of least resistance, the aluminum former, which it will bubble out and create a ridge all the way down to the bottom of the former where it can escape. this ridge can touch the pole and cause a rattling sound.
your problem might be this, it might not, but a recone is probably the only thing to fix your said "rattle".
man if i have to recone 1 i might as well just recone both to upgrade them ( i have 2 woofers i had only 1 playing)
if you cut the dustcap off without hurting the cone, looking down to the pole and coil will be your best bet.
if you have the issue i stated above, you will see something like this....
which kind of dustcap do you have?
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ok aside from the obvious that i did everything wrong.. woofer still plays my concern is do i need a recone ? im not gonna play music on it untill i get evrything right .. i have an oscope on the way someone replied in the other post saying that the coil might have been bubbling? anyone is familiar with that ?
the bubbling i stated in the other, i saw first hand, and Rusty explained it to me (the owner of DC). The massive heat build up can cause gasses while the resin/glue starts to melt and evaporate on the windings, with the flatwound coils, there is no where for this gas to go, so it takes the path of least resistance, the aluminum former, which it will bubble out and create a ridge all the way down to the bottom of the former where it can escape. this ridge can touch the pole and cause a rattling sound.
your problem might be this, it might not, but a recone is probably the only thing to fix your said "rattle".
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wow, by what you posted you were doing quite a few things poorly and wrong. double rms, shitty electrical, gain at half (whatever that means). Half gain doesnt mean half power. If you gain is just over what it should be, you can be sent into heavy clipping.
The rattle you hear i think is bubbling of the coil. Had it happen to me on a level 5 m1 when i clipped it to shit. The former bubbled out from heat build up and it not being able to escape the flatwinds of the coil, so it bubbles out the former and causes it to rub on the pole.
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truth.
just because strong men are trying to get strong and a bodybuilder is trying to build his body does not mean they are weak by any means...
you obviously missed the point.
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only thing i could think of is over excursion. I would just add a felt pad and be done with it, you dont want to constrict movement of the spiders or the tinsel leads.
what size are the spiders? you might be flattening them out at full mech excursion if you get that far, could have caused tension on the tinsel lead causing that one to rip.
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loving that Fs of 18hz. Plus the front end looks so simple, yet so elegant.
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btw, ive had the same shit happen on Soundstream amps, AQ amps, and more. Just a shitty design i guess. Pac LC has never done me wrong, have the same knob i bought about a year ago and it still works like a champ.
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Would personally ditch those and get an lc1
x2 LC-1 over stock bass knob/gain knob any day.
if something goes wrong it is also just a 20 dollar replacement, rather than sending an amp in due to some failure in either the knob or the actual input to the amp where it plugs in.
edit: plus with an LC-1 you can completely cut the bass off if need be.
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looks good. any chance i could get those box specs/dimensions? i have a vvx8 laying around and never had any luck with the box i made for it.
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singer is all you need to know.
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the xbox 360 at release was 399. 499 for the new xbox one is too much??? seriously? LOL
it would be one thing if it was $100 and you didn't get the kinect with it but your pretty much paying for the kinect
do you not realize you are getting with the xbox one vs. the 360?
http://www.digitaltrends.com/gaming/xbox-one-vs-xbox-360-spec-showdown/
yet you want to blame 100 price increase solely on kinect with you are getting a better processor, bigger HDD, better graphics card, better USB slots, better CPU, better GPU, blu ray drive, etc. LO FUCKING L.
So there are 2 cpu's and 2 gpu's?
1 of each.
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the xbox 360 at release was 399. 499 for the new xbox one is too much??? seriously? LOL
it would be one thing if it was $100 and you didn't get the kinect with it but your pretty much paying for the kinect
do you not realize you are getting with the xbox one vs. the 360?
http://www.digitaltrends.com/gaming/xbox-one-vs-xbox-360-spec-showdown/
yet you want to blame 100 price increase solely on kinect with you are getting a better processor, bigger HDD, better graphics card, better USB slots, better CPU, better GPU, blu ray drive, etc. LO FUCKING L.
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the xbox 360 at release was 399. 499 for the new xbox one is too much??? seriously? LOL
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I tried to word it pretty carefully. Everyone's thinking it...
and EMF isnt skar, it is essentially a super beefy sundown sub.
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So, how close does Skar usually try to come to matching Sundown's products?
hehe i wouldnt advise anyone to answer that...
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Download the I-Phone or Android XS Power APP
in XS Power Batteries / Chargers! (and other stuff too)
Posted
I have it currently, it is cool, but glitchy. Sometimes i have to reset, refresh, change choices in the app to let me proceed through picking a vehicle, and sometimes when done it doesnt bring up the "how many watts rms......" box to enter into.
I like it though, just needs refining.