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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95
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I suppose powering 2 massive 18's with that one amp would be a ridiculous idea lol
Like TSNSs...
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In theory, 8 would be perfect. That's 1200 to each woofer.
Yea, if he did 15s. I was just going checking stuff for a shizzz ton of woofas.
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I was just going over ohm loads, seems like if there were 16, the coils of dvc2 or dvc4 can both be wired to 2 ohms.
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My tax money still hasn't been deposited in bank yet but hopefully will soon. And idk which route I'm gna go with for my tahoe. But almost a year ago a local shop had a warhorse for display with a $6500 price tag on it. Now u can get them cheap cheap compared to that and was thinking of deff getting one. Jst undecided on subs. And of course upgrading electical is a must for the warhorse.
Check audiosavings.com , they have them around 1400 or so iirc.
And with 10k, 12 or 14 L7 12s.
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If I was to just do 1 big chamber instead of seperate ones, would that make a tremendous difference?
not really, if its ported 1 chamber is fine. but if you ever go sealed, you need a separate chamber per woofer. but your going ported, so you could go 2 chambers or 1, no difference really. and the 2 6in ports sound fine.
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niether.... just my opinion.
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Should be fine, might have a tad of voltage drop but nothing bad
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2 kicker cvt 12s sealed on a pioneer gm7200m and loved it or it could be my newest system, DC LVL 4 15 @ 32.7Hz on a Soundstream TRX1500d @ 1 ohm. the DC shakes literally everything in my truck, some stuff very little, some stuff a lot, but it is all noticeable.
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I was not sure what stats change with the upgraded coils so im just double checking here first before i build the box.
I need the following for a 15 lvl4 w/ lvl5 coils
Qts
Vas
Fs
Re
Le
Xmas
Z
Qms
Qes
Spl
Pe
Bl
Dia
Sd
Thank you in advance for any and all help you can give me.
corret me if im wrong but isnt it pretty much to the xl?
yes, but not exactly, it doesnt change xmax and some other stuff. its different i think, but only slightly.
edit: it might be the same as the xl, but with 500 more rms in a lvl 4 package.
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1995 Chevy c1500 ext cab
power: 18ft (front left hood aka battery, straight back, all the way right, down under the cabin, up through the side rail, and to the back wall of the cab, finally then 3 ft to the left.)
ground: 3ft
rcas: 17ft
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i was looking at that but isnt cca bad? or not as conductive
CCA = copper clad aluminum, OFC = oxygen free copper (better). there about the same unless your competing.
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$100 for 50ft of some of the best wire out there.
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the comps will move a lot more than you think too. i had 2 12s and always treated them like babies until i threw 1.5k at 2, with respectable gains of course, and they get moving. best "budget" sub Ive ever used.
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if you mean just the regular one with the DC on the side, yes. 100% cotton and they are quite comfortable and feel nice.
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Lol at the 100 to $900 range of speakers you want
yes that would be a waste on a fourwheeler lol. but 60 is the cheapest ive seen some componets
there are Kenwoods, RFs, Kickers, Powerbass, Pioneer, MB Quart, Clarion, Infinity, and more that are around 60. (45-90)
but why go for SQ when on a 4 wheeler...
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Distance tests don't mean all too much. Unless your comparing something to one of them Mexican cars with like 20 12"s, 40 6.5"s and a few hundred tweeters.
lol mexican cars?
yea. or the ones with a 6.5 under there hood so EVERYONE can hear there awesome music choice. I dont get it... not being racist or anything but, what is with a very few amount of hispanics who just love the fake chrome, chrome door handles, trim, tail lights, fake air vents, etc. And they have to be loud and gaudy like they are trying to make some huge statement that there better than everyone(me thinks they are self righteous...) (fyi: i live in south texas)
not trying to thread jack... sorry.
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214k on my 95 chevy truck and synthetic has never done me wrong.
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Outside the car is a zero pressure zone.
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Maybe its just me, but if I didn't know how to build a box, and there was no way of getting a shop to do it, I would build it myself. I would take this as a learning experience and could save 15% or more in labor costs.
Yeah i agree with you, im making my own box now and its way better than some pre fab garbage and better than i know the shitty car audio places around here would do for me, plus you save $$$. Give it a try
x3, and when you finish, you get a sort of self satisfaction. and they are generally 1000 times better than prefabs(for ported), and sealed boxes are usually really easy to do, no tuning, or port displacement. AND YOU LEARN! thats my biggest thing.
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if you have a torch or something that can heat up plastic, you could get a 6in PVC and flare it...
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Knukonceptz, bought 25ft a week ago and installed it. It's some beefy wire but also it can be tied in knots.
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stuff called goo gone. it dissolves sticky ish like nothing.
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Pics 1, 2, and 8 are amazing
WIring Question (VERY URGENT)
in General Audio - Can't find a category for your question? Ask here.
Posted
i did. i dont have anything covering the outside of it but it is also like 18inches or more from the ground and ran above the frame and almost completely shielded from the ground.