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Posts posted by ChevyBoy95
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i had this in my truck not too long ago. i had a crack in something on my engine, the bottom of it, and the air leak was causing it to get wierd amounts of air and idle at like 1500rpms when 600rpms is norm.
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I would go with the 3 18s for the odd ball number, to many even numbers
3 IA DP 21s???? or WARDEN 21s...
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Isn't that 4000 at 2 ohms....at like 18 volts?
17 volts
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Technically, fixmyspeaker could change it to a circle and recone it...
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1 18 on a 3k would move some air and be quite loud, but from what I've seen, cone area=air movement(for the most part).
8 10s would look crazy too.
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kill everyone and rock n roll are great too.
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so my pops had a few extra batts layin around his shop and asked if maybe i wantd any of them for my system.. i have horrible voltage drop as is with my aq2200d and 15 fi bl on stock alt with big 3 done in a 10 impala. i beleive my alt is like 125 amps
i wantd to kno if running another battery in parelell to the back would stress my alt. to much and fry it. keep in mind these batteries my dads got are light truck batteries, 75 series, like 950 cca's its a big battery. (i dont even know if u can run a bat like that to the back) so what do you guys think?
this is all "for now" while i wait to get a highout put alternator.. any helps greatly appreciated
if it isnt a sealed battery, dont put it in the car, period.
and i always see people running two batteries on there alt and it seems to do fine but they usually have HO alt plans in the future. I have heard of people running 7 batteries on a stock alt, but didnt know how long it lasted either.
personally, i would be confortable with 1 extra battery on a stock alt but if you need more than 1 extra, go HO Alt. but thats just me.
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x2 on the SA 10
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I personally love soundstreams equipment, have run the tarantula series stuff for 2 years no problem. As forthe t5s, they will put in work.
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i dunno how the amps all work, should read soundigitals thread again , but looks awesome
the 5k seems to have almost double everything the 3k has, so im assuming its underrated? seems like if its got double the internals it shoudl have double the power, but like i said not sure how they work
Iirc the 5k can put out like 7k at higher volts.
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My theory is it let's the sub breathe in a way. Sealed cabin means another almost enclosure surrounding the sub, or at least what I have come up with but w/e.
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CVTs would of been perfect for your application but gotta work with what you have.
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http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-310/
mess around with the numbers and such.....
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You don't need two batteries either.
X2, get a nice AGM upfront and you will be good to go.
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Leaking acid. Get new battery most likely. if you dont go gain crazy 1k is fine on stock electrical. I ran 1800rms on stock electrical and big 3. (105 amp alt, nice interstate batt)
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These bad boys.
Didn't Meade have some of these in his tahoe's doors? Like a year or something ago?
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Some jigs have adjustable knob or something like that to swivel the bottom
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Even if it doesnt turn out right, if you had the room or option you could use thin MDF to go over it. Like 5/8ths or somethin
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That's a nice ass set up with that DD like that. gives me ideas for my truck.
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4 XL 15s on a warhorse?!? SHITS WEAK!
lol... Jk, that's like my dream system... GOOD SHIT!
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If you get the AQ, just feel out how the sub is acting, and go from there, I love the 2200 though.
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Get the AQ.
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Watts rms going to subwoofer?
Lower than recommended watts usually means a bigger box, higher than recommended watts usually means smaller box.
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Cap would probably not do anything. They seem to help when you already maintain voltage, not when it struggles. iirc.
stumped on the wiring
in Electrical-battery- Alternators- Wiring
Posted · Edited by I like kicker
could you reword what your talking about so i (and we) can understand what you are trying to say. (there are a bunch of typos in the second and third sentence.)
edit:
your battery needs to be completely disconnected, negative of first, then positive off. Run the power from the battery under the hood to the battery positive on the amplifier. Then run your ground from where ever your amp is (i.e. if it is in the trunk, ground the amp in the trunk to the FRAME or the best place possible.) to your amp. Put the remote turn on in and reconnect the battery, positive first, then negative.
I COULDN'T UNDERSTAND THE SECOND SENTENCE(So i out the power and the ground to the Battery sence it is in the trunk.) SO IM NOT SURE WHAT IT MEANS, LIKE IF THERE IS A BATTERY IN YOUR TRUNK? OR POWER WIRE FROM THE BATTERY TO TRUNK?