toylocost

That makes sense. Are there any processors in the cheaper range that can do what I need or am I better off with passive comps up front and coax's in the rear?

bump for the evening.

So I'm pretty sure I want to go active with my truck (99 4runner) mainly for flexibility. Not being locked down to a specific mid or tweeter. Also I'm able to peice together components for cheaper than buying a set. My 4runner has stock comps up front, mids down low and tweeter up high on the door panel... In the rear its just a single speaker down low... My goal is for everything I do to be reversible or not a big deal when I go to sell the truck after ripping out the entire system and putting it back to stock. So... comps will go in the same place as factory. I dont mind making new tweeter pods to replace the factory ones if need be. So rear tweeter location is an issue. There is no factory rear tweeter. I think the the only place I could put them and not have them sound like crap (being to close) to the rear passengers, is somewhere on the D pillar way on the back... First question/s... Will putting the tweeters so far back be very bad? I have heard of time aligning speakers, what would I have to do to make that possible? Can you suggest a better location/solution for the rear tweeter placement? Would you recommend only using a front stage? That way I would only need 1 amp for both mids and highs, and I wouldnt have to worry about the rear tweets. Second question... Do I need to buy crossovers like this or would the crossover on my amp be sufficient? Link to cossover page. Third question... Assuming I am using front and rear speakers, Is the ability to use the fader something I need to keep?

I got a kenwood amp, 8 gauge monster wire kit, Rockford 10, and a thunderform enclosure at a yard sale for $40. Works great. There's even enough left there for me to build a real box. So its possible.

cadence? not shitty Haha my bad. I thought it was $10 for the whole spool.

Must be some pretty shitty wire.

Uh no its just the rest of the port. Up there ^^^ they told me to change it to this...

Which box are you referring to?

Ok here is the speaker. Rockford HE 10" - RPF3410. Found some info here on crutchfield under features and specs... http://www.crutchfield.com/p_575RFP3410/Rockford-Fosgate-Punch-HE-RFP3410.html?tp=111&tab=features_and_specs I hooked it up to another car and listened to it a little bit. I think I can hear a slight rattle or buzz coming from it but it could be the box it was in, So I'm not sure of the condition of it yet. I got that, the kendwood amp, kenwood 6 disk changer, monster wire (everything but remote), and a MTX Thunderform enclosure for a single cab Tacoma for $40.

I do like that idea. I don't know why i didn't think about doing that in the first place. Just trying to over-complicate things. An HE I think. I'm not at home or id get the model number for you. I cant find specs on it anywhere. Looks like this... please elaborate.

I got an older rockford 10" at a yard sale for cheap. Dont know how it plays yet so I decided Id build a box for the DC 10" I want and just run the rockford till i smoke it. This will be installed ina '99 4runner (I need to update my sig). The LVL 3 will be powered by a Rockford P5002, which is advertised at 500rms. I suspect output is slightly more. Here is the calc shot... And here is how I'd like the layout to be. I am unsure of if the calculator is taking into account the extra inner walls of the port, just having a hard time understand how the calculator calculates. Also, My port is 10" tall and 1.6" wide, will the small width create any problems? Other port Qs... What effects will rounding the edges inside the port have on tuning? Like this... And If I add 45s the port would need to be longer? It seems to me like it would? Thanks for taking the time to look guys.

Nice car. Love the teggys. Sub'd.

Your boxes are probably around the same size as this one ended up being. I didn't get much time to listen to it but I know it could do ALOT better in a proper ported box. Its on about 350rms right now, I can definitely hear it when we're in traffic together (until I turn mine up). This setup is better than anything he has had before and meets his listening needs. He doesn't need to blow people away just to fill in where his system was lacking. With that said, he is very happy with it. He says someday he would like for me to build him a ported box but just doesn't want to give up the space. If you want lows just build a proper ported box, but you can always run your sealed until you get the other one.

Couple of one I installed for a buddy in his Eclipse. I know the box is too small for it but he wanted it to be out of the way.

That's very nice! How do you do those rounded walls? Kerfs?

lmao yeah its a TV. Ive been sitting back a couple feet and I have a wireless keyboard and mouse. Its a 37" vizio LCD, 1080p, 120hz. Rogers, yours looks kick ass too.

Hows this for a monitor? I just need a longer desk now because I have to turn my head so far to read everything.

Well that sucks balls. Anyone know if I'm gonna have any luck with a warranty when I bought from sonic?

Ok so I threw the other sub in the trunk and ran it as hard as I felt safe without a box for a whole song and nothing abnormal happened. So I will probably try to get a warranty on this sub if that doesn't work then I will have to find another. But I still don't know what fucked up the sub in the first place.

yeah i think i have a D4 off brand 15 that will work. I can test it tomorrow.

So because the sub is messed up the amp is probably going into protect and coming back out over and over again? There is no protect light on this amp so I cant really tell. Only thing there is is a pretty blue power light on the front.

OK so we got the sub pulled and heres what we found. 1st VC (supposed to be 4ohm) 2nd VC So something is fucked up. Assuming I get another sub, whats to say this wont happen again. I don't know what the original problem was but this is the aftermath. He also said he thinks he bottomed it out pushing it too hard once. Idk if that would have anything to do with this though.

Actually thats a good point it cant be the ground because the power light never cuts out its always on.

OK thanks guys I'll check it tomorrow after work.

To check ohm load on the VCs I just use the meter and go + and - and see what the resistance is?