the_garynator

Thanks Cody. I'll probably get that option when I make my recone order from Rusty. Also wondering on two other possible options. Rusty posted a photo of an inverted green carbon fiber dustcap on FB a while back. it looked basically like a carbon fiber version of the TFS dustcap. It was on a 10" or 12" woofer (don't remember). I was wondering if they are available for 15s or 18s and if they're scaled to size (i.e. would be basically a carbon fiber version of the TFS cap)? Second question, is it possible (whether through an existing option or modifying current equipment) to make a Lvl 5 m1 (or other dc lines for that matter) field reconeable like the hcca or something? Reason I ask is that I'd like to be able to switch my level 5s between say 15s and 18s without having to buy a new recone every time. I know it's kinda a pipe dream but was just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of someone doing something like this. The sub you talking about is a m2 lvl 5 12, yes it's a full dish cap. Field option not possable Yeah, my question is, is there a carbon fiber full dish cap available in 15s and/or 18s?

It's not that I'm worried about them being expensive, I just wanted an idea of how much the option was so that I could determine whether or not I was willing to spend extra $$$ on them. and the direct leads that I'm talking about are different than soldering the leads to 8ga. they're woven into the spider...vs the standard ones that are just stiched down to the spiders in a few spots.

Thanks Cody. I'll probably get that option when I make my recone order from Rusty. Also wondering on two other possible options. Rusty posted a photo of an inverted green carbon fiber dustcap on FB a while back. it looked basically like a carbon fiber version of the TFS dustcap. It was on a 10" or 12" woofer (don't remember). I was wondering if they are available for 15s or 18s and if they're scaled to size (i.e. would be basically a carbon fiber version of the TFS cap)? Second question, is it possible (whether through an existing option or modifying current equipment) to make a Lvl 5 m1 (or other dc lines for that matter) field reconeable like the hcca or something? Reason I ask is that I'd like to be able to switch my level 5s between say 15s and 18s without having to buy a new recone every time. I know it's kinda a pipe dream but was just wondering if anyone has any knowledge of someone doing something like this.

Exactly what the title states. I'm wondering if there's a direct lead option available for the Level 5 M1 recones. I'm guessing it's expensive and custom but hoping it's not, but that's why I'm asking lol. If it's available, is it expensive? (when I say expensive, I'm thinking $25 would be reasonable, $50 would be expensive). Thanks.

If you reread, the previous owner damaged the sub. Not sure what he did to it. Im running an ap30001d to it. Everything was set with a dd1. The issue isn't my setup, the issue is that the tinsel leads are too short (not sure why they are).

I bought the sub used, and after further inspection it looks like the spider has been reglued down, the tinsel leads are about half the length that they should be and have torn out of the spider. If I run it full tilt it snaps tinsel leads...I've fixed them once, but it only held together for about 3 weeks. I'm trying to keep this thing together for another month until I decide if I'm getting a new winter beater (debating picking up a buick roadmaster wagon hell yeah), cuz if I do, I'll be reconing them into 18's, don't really want to recone one, just to recone it again in a month lol.

Ended up using liquid electrical tape, seems to be working so far. Unfortunately I discovered one of the tinsel leads is missing and the second one in that pair is pretty badly damaged. Luckilly it seems to still be working on all 4 voice coils for now. Looks like i'll be reconing both of them sooner than later lol. Thanks for the advice Rob!

1990 240sx 151.0 (43hz) at the dash with driver's door open - termlab Car running but due to some wiring issues voltage was drooping to mid 11's 3011rms clamped 1 Level 5 15" with 2 dead coils (2x 2ohm left) stock 80amp alt + 125amp alt 1 walmart deep cycle up front, 1 fleet farm deep cycle in back 4x 1/0 gauge (1 per alt power, 1 battery to battery pos. and one battery neg to neg) Audiopipe ap30001d at 1ohm (just a hair over 2ohm with box rise) 4ft3 after displacement, 3x 4" external rear firing precision ports tuned to 38hz, sub up firing

Any tips or tricks to restitching tinsel leads down to the spider? I recently picked up a second lvl 5 m1 (used) and it looks like it has had the stitching that secures the tinsel leads to the spider pulled out (possibly from over-excursion). I beleive they are touching at high excursion. I just need a temporary fix since I'll be reconing both of my level 5s soon, but in the mean time I want to run this one (my other has 2 dead voice coils) but don't want to take the chance of blowing my amp. The other fix I was thinking of would be to use some liquid electrical tape on them but wasn't sure if that would potentially cause heat disapation issues. Thanks, Gary

Stories like these make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside! Another reason DC Audio rules! also, the fact that the sub took that kind of abuse for so long and kept going definitely shows DC quality!

Figured I'd post up here, see if anyone has had experience with this type of setup. I purchased one of these (except from Ebay): http://www.amazon.co...t/dp/B000H3PPNM Hooked everything up, it seems to be doing its job, I'm now able to select CD as a source, however, when I tried to test it out, I hooked up my phone (tried my friend's too) and no sound was coming out. The weirdest part is that the spectrograph animation in the background is going, so I know the deck is getting the signal, but yet it's almost like the output is disabled. (all of my stuff is amped, but I also tried a speaker on the deck's amp). Also, the display says CD, and track time shows as 0000 or whatever. One other thing to note is that it seems that there is only amplifier "hiss" when the CD source is selected, whereas when I select the normal input, there is more "hiss". Makes me think that the outputs are disabled, vs. it being an input issue. I'm trying to figure out if this is an issue with the adapter, compatibility, or a settings thing. Not sure how these things normally function, any insight would be appreciated.