Cashdollar2009

Mine should be on its way here soon! Those things look beast! I can't wait! Excited to see what you do with yours.

bcae1.com, has about anything you can think of.

Could be a learning experience? Cutting wood is fun.

Tru dat... Throw in some polyfill while you are at it. (if you like the lows)

Whew! (wipes brow) thanks for saving my life bro! I wouldn't have been very happy finding that out on my own! Especially considering the box will be built and covered before the sub gets here!

Haha i thought it would, lol i'm not going to hop on here and ask something quite that dumb, maybe some other nooob question, but i'm not asking someone to come measure my speaker for me. Sounds good to me... i already have the 14" measured out, i just wanted to double-check before i drew out a 15.25" circle. Gotta love building with smd open.

Ohhhhhh sorry, subwoofer should be here in a few days... today is my only free day to build the box before i go back to school I am NOT going to be sitting at college with a DC lvl 4xl and some cut up mdf in my garage for a month! Haha, i suppose i should have thrown that in the first post.

I am making a double baffle for the front of my box, but i want to also make the subwoofer flush with the front. What i am asking is; is the actual outer diameter 15"? Would i be well off cutting a 15.25" cut-out? I know the mounting diameter is 14", but to make it flush i want to make sure it's not an "oversized" sub, diameter-wise at least... thanks!

Okay, well i ran some new numbers... came up with this as the final design, and here's my final torres. About 13inches of port per foot. And the port is no longer behind the sub.

Okay thank you decaf, that actually does make more sense to me. I already have about 5 or 6 zips of yours to run through this thing, i just need the tiny detail of the box finished. lol ... and k3n12ock, thanks for the heads up! I may have to keep my eye out for that update.

In the actual torres thread though, it says that the "port bends" is if the port physically bends as in like an arc, not an elbow? When i run the numbers for and elbow it ends up behind the speaker, no matter what numbers i play with in order to get the tuning right at the right volume all to my cars maximum specs... :/ If i make the port wider to compensate for tuning and to keep from making the elbow, port area is massive... If the second design will not be better, then i am obviously confused... From the torres page: EDIT: updated 6/21. for a small error that a user over at *** found on slot ports (thanks bromo). it took too much volume out for the slot port, which would change the net volume, which would change the tuning. only by ~ 1 hz, but i still fixed it. also added a check box that you can check if there are bends in the port. since bends do not require the port to physically be as long, this will yield a slightly larger net volume, which will change tuning. so i made it a check box instead of entering in the bends. if my math was right...you can have 4 or 5 bends without changing anything, which i dont see many boxes having that many bends as that would be a low ass tuned box.

Well i am running into town in a few hours to pick up the wood, i really hope this is what i should do. Today is my only actual available day of building between school and vacation so i need to do this tonight. Any objections with the last method on doing the port as such?????

From just a logic standpoint, this port doesn't look like it would cause any trouble, i would still be getting my total length needed as well as avoiding the rear of my sub and causing loading issues... anyone object???

Ummm... i just click on "run sketchup" from the main screen and draw everything from scratch. It should start you with the red/blue/green lines for horizontal/vertical/and depth. Like i said, my sketches are nothing close to nice, just time and crunching numbers.

Haha it's not too bad man. It just takes a few minutes of playing around. What i did was nothing serious, once you figure out how to draw lines it takes more patience than anything. A little tip to give you to save time is when you have your line at the correct angle, and already know it's langth, hold it at that angle, type the length, and hit enter. It will draw it exactly that length... (saves a bunch of time)

Dude, you don't think anyone here knows what they are talking about and get angry because you are throwing out some audio terminology that describes procedures that no one has any clue as to what you are saying, yet you "need" to keep the magic cap because you think it saves your electrical? Maybe you need to chill and be a little more polite on your intent. Angry people don't get too far, as far as advice goes...

You may have been referencing to my torres calculations in my thred. According to the torres sticky, under the updates, he says to put the port height in for width, and width for height because he was used to building boxes vertical with a horizontal port... That is why i did it that way. **in the red text on his thread** "***just to clarify...when doing a slot port to add in end correction, use the port height as the the distance from the box wall to the side of the port wall. switching the numbers will give you a different tuning, as port width will be longer in and it'll extend the tuning a lil further than it should"

That's what i am a little confused about? If i make the port area any larger, the length grows. But if i make it smaller, the lenght shrinks...but then my port area is rather small... what if i put the port in as such? Any disadvantages???

Alright sounds good. I just wanted to make sure... some guy on another forum had me paranoid about "loading" issues with the port wall beig half and half behind the sub... :/

Well tomorrow is my day to pick up the wood and build, any help before a catastrophic error would be appreciated.

Looks gorgeous. Reason for sale?

Well, i recently purchased a DC Audio level 4xl and am building my own box. Now what i am wondering is if there are any real potential probelms in my design... I plan to run about 1800 to 2000 rms, so i plan to keep the box around 4 cubes tuned to around 34hz. Basically, my questions are: 1. Will the port being directly behind half of the sub cause loading related issues or anything as such? 2. Is 4cubes too big still? 3. Are the torres figures correct as i have gotten numbers up to 4 inches shorter of a port on 12volt.com and such...

I would personally go with the four 12"s sealed. You will most likely have a chance of getting better sounding subs if you spend the extra cash, plus all i've ever heard was that it takes way to much power to get the same output out of the solo x as compared to other setups on a smaller level. I have no personal experience of either, but i've read around quite a bit on 18"s. Just my $0.02.

I was wondering the same thing. I've read in multiple plases to free air the sub at its fs frequency for 10 minutes or so. Give it little power until it reaches xmax, then let it go. I have no idea on the validity of this suggestion as i have not ever done so myself... :/ There are mixed answers everywhere...

lol WIN!