Cashdollar2009

http://realmofexcursion.com/index.php?pageid=audio_downloads

Lol

Rule of thumb: If you have the wire, ground to your front battery. If you do not, then you are fine to do multiple *good* grounds in the rear.

I am not sure if you have picked up on it yet or not, but starting your questions with such a ridiculous claims as being the "box making God" was probably not your best decision. lol Do what cubsfan basically said. Torres' calculator is well suited for your average box making God. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-310/

Today is odd. I have ALWAYS heard that in probably 95% of cases, suv's love sub up port back. Today is odd because I was reading in another post that sub forward port out the side sounds best in a trunked car? Wtf have I been reading? lol

What woofer is it? You need to take into account for displacement.

Step 1. Sell subwoofers. Step 2. Start over. Edit: You gots 4 of them.

Great amplifiers for the money. I've ran both the 1610d and 2010d which are now both in two of my friends cars. Never had one issue. Set your gains right and the output is clean. This is a good buy right here for those looking for the affordable power. Only downside is that they LOVE to collect that dust in the fins on top.

Correct. So start saving money.

o.o to your sig. lol

Bro you gotta take that sock off of your desk.

Let's see. It's quite simple really. 1.) Just take your driver size: 15" 2.) Multiply it by the quantity: 2 3.) Then take that number and multiply it by the number of dumb questions you have made in this thread. So I would say: 15 X 2 divided by 1 = GTFO.

I would go with the four L7's from that list personally. Greater cone area and especially with them giving you the hook-ups for cheap. Hard to pass that deal up with your pricing situation. What are you running to power your subs?

Looks neat. What all are you using to make these?

This is getting good. Neo, I went to your allexperts link earlier today at random and had it favortied to send you a few q's on this in the morning. Coincidence? Love it. lol But it's all making sense. And that whole note on port area in in^2/ft^3, that is only if you are running around rated to lower powered setups then? That is something I have not come across in reading, then again this is not typically a common topic. Thanks again guys! I have a good deal of thinking to do tomorrow about this whole project and can report back my brainstorming for some constructive criticism.

Appreciate it. What i'm having trouble grasping right now is the whole shrinking of the port area thing. I have interpreted it two ways: Shrink the width down a whole inch to 3. But, this would yield a port area of 15x3=45in^2. or Instead of .75 mdf use 1 mdf for the walls to give me a width of 3.75 as opposed to 4. Yielding 15x3.75=56.25in^2. I may be missing something obvious here and would rather pick up on something I may not know, which is always nice. Or maybe clear up a misunderstanding? lol

So playing around with a few things, I came up with this. I would end up adding close to .4 cubes of bracing, and then extend the port another 8 inches to achieve the tuning of about 34hz. How's it look? I figured it would be more difficult to slim the port down without busting apart the box, adding to it while keeping the original port area would be easier, and according to the calculator, very feasible.

Snap, I guess it's 3.9. Thank you for the insight and actual thought processing fecupe2001! Okay so at 3.8 I would be shrinking it to 3.2. So now I would want to look into 2x4 bracing to get about .7 cubes of displacement. Now with the tuning, how do you sir propose I change the port area? (assuming you mean without busting the box apart)

Hey Mr. Sexplorer himself. So you're saying to figure out measurements and try to shrink up about .8 cubes with bracing? Then that would effect my tuning wouldn't it?

That was my assumption at first when I clicked on the link. lol

My current box is 3.8 cubes at 34hz with 60in^2 of port. She peaks at 40hz. I'd still like to see a lot of the lows and sound good on some decaf stuff. Think a 32hz tuning would be horrible off of such power in around 3 cubes? I've just put some much time and effort into this build before the recone and decision to wire it down that I really want it to pay off in the end. BTW, Cashdollar is my last name so no one assumes I just put that tag on my stuff. lol The gf wanted to help so I let her help with the name plate.

I understand that. I need to compensate for the loading and unloading. I am just hoping some people with some experience with this, 15"s especially, could lead me in the right direction. Would 3 cubes seem good? Like I said before, I've been flipping couch cushions all day and can't find a few extra hundred bucks laying around to build 3 or 4 boxes to test, so i'd like a little help here.

Different title to maybe hone some more answers... 15" DC Audio Level 4xl Crescendo 3KWP @ .5-ohms (rated 4,030rms @ 13.8v @ .5-ohms) Right now in my old box: 3.8ft^3 tuned to 34hz I feel the driver is unloading horribly and sounds like poo. Before the recone it was seeing around 1.8k in this enclosure and sounded nice. What are some suggestions for box size when looking to run a little over 3k in power? Thanks in advance!

Type of subwoofer. Must build them or something? Sick vids!

I'ma throw Audioque out there... http://www.audioque.com/aq/