ls1king000

The more I read, I think it's like this for any pre-2006 Alpine.

Ai-net cable? I don't see one. Here's a link of pics of all the included parts. Good pics of in/outs too. Anyway, I bought one so we'll see shortly. http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=htt...sa%3DN%26um%3D1

I received the ebay cord today. Music video pictures come up but no control from the iva-d901. I still don't understand how the KCE would be any different since it's still 3-rca outputs?

Yes and it's not what I'm looking for.

My question is this: If the kce-415i has 3 rca outputs (V/L/R) and you can control it from the h/u.......how come this wouldn't do the same? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...RK%3AMEWNX%3AIT

Not just audio, Video and audio. And yes, IVA-D901. I seem to find an adapter for every 2006+ alpine model but not the D901.

All my christmas money is gone already lol. Just bought a ipod classic 160GB. Trying to hook this shit up and it's confusing the hell out of me! I have to have to best quality possible and video. I don't care about controlling the ipod directly, I would like to control it from the Alpine h/u. First I saw this, which I found out won't work with my iva-d901 and is discontinued. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-KiEXZ9MOupf/p...e-KCA-420i.html Then there's this, which is intended for "rear seat' use. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_500KCE415I/Al...+ipod&ssi=0 Which one? Or is there just a simple alpine-ipod adapter cable?

Found this on Xtant's site. Their website was down for short time but, is now back up and here's what I found in the faq: "How do I use the RCA Outputs of one Xtant Amplifier to Supply Input to another Xtant Amplifier?" Balanced Line: When using the balanced line on the first Xtant amplifier, all other amps receiving input from the first should have the balanced line Disabled, as they are already receiving balanced signal through the inputs. Input Sensitivity /Input Gain (X series models only): Remember, when supplying signal from one Xtant amplifier to another, the output of the first amplifier is already increased or cut depending on the position of the input sensitivity jumper. For example, if the first amplifier's sensitivity jumper is in the +10 position, the second amplifier will automatically be increased by +10 at the input. Therefore, in order to level match or gain match all amplifiers, set the desired input sensitivity in the first Xtant amplifier and then place all subsequent amplifiers jumpers in the "0" position.

I will PM you soon about my company. I's think a designer could have a lot of fun with it. Take a look at my current site. It's hilariously horrible. http://www.newman-green.com/

"That's a HUGE BITCH"! "BEHEMOTH"! "Freak"!

Put the cluster in.....everything is working!!! Results as follows: - At idle on the battery 13.65 V - At 2000rpm on battery 14.25 V - At idle under heavy load on the battery 12.5 V (Jumps around from 12.4 to 12.6) - At 2000rpm under heavy load on the battery 13.6 V Also I found the voltage to be the exact same reading on the alternator as the battery. Thanks for the help

No cluster in the truck at this moment though I drove it like this for over a week with no problems. I'll put it in and see what happens and thanks for everyone's help. I'll post what I find

I went to Advanced, Auto-zone and Dipatch.....passed all tests. So, again I put back the alt with batteries fully charged. It started with a slight hesitation but, did start. I run up front to get a reading on the battery, it already reads 10.5 then 10.2 then 9.8 then 9.5 and then it dies rather quickly. Much faster than yesterday. I can't even get a chance to rev 2000rpm before it dies.

I will try. My battery jumper is charging right now. I did however do a +alt. -ground (chassis) test and it was EXACTLY the same voltage. I'll see what it reads at 2000rpm. Thanks.

I have a small second battery but, I disconnected it temporarily until this is figured out. One battery. My stereo is off, all accessories are off. Connections are good. I even replaced alt. to batt. terminals and wire because it was looking a little shady. I've heard some bad things about my alternator company (loadboss or alterstart) but, it has served me well pounding for 14 months.

OKay, I let the batt charge until 10.5v or more....starts....idles screams the rpm's.....drove it. As I drive it....slower and slower acceleration. Then back to 9.5V...and dies. Has to be the alternator, no!?!?! I'm no expert and really cannot afford a mechanic right now. I have lots of tools and I learn fast....anybody please help.

Dang it!!!! I replaced the battery yesterday (lazy sunday). Everything was working fine. Played a few tunes and drove around a bit last night. Then this morning, it was hard to start but, did. After it started, idle was rough. Then rougher, then it was dead. Now, I can get it started but once it's running the idle drops down and it dies. Alternator right? Well I took my 200amp load boss to have it tested and it turned out @ 195 amps so, it should be good. What the hell could be wrong with this thing? New battery, alternator is good.....what should I look for next? I'm lost. And confused.

Lazy Saturday. I grabbed my multimeter and only have 9.3-9.4V max. Time to replace these shitty energizer batteries with some XS power

Today I took out my crappy cracked dash of my tahoe and replaced it with a newer 98 style. I disconnected the battery, unplugged all the harnesses (lights, switches, thermostat, etc) and removed the dash. The only thing I removed from the system was the iva-d901 and rux-c701 faces. Both "brains" sit under my drivers seat. Hooked everything back up.....NO illumination, NO screen display, NO power but, the screen opens and closes and beeps. I've already traced all wires to make sure they are not hung up or spliced by a sharp edge during dash installation. I rechecked all the ground wires from when I had to disconnect them to take the dash out. HELP, please! Edit: I checked the fuses, all were good. I disconnected the face and reattached it and now Illumination comes on for a second, then I here the relay for the capicator "click" and repeats every few seconds "on/off/on/off".

I've watched the youtube video of the maxxlink and I get how to hook up 2 amps to one sub. Since it can output up to 5 amps, I thought 3k would be better than 2k. Lvl5 says peak @ 4000....

I'm just tossing around ideas. What about a DC lvl5, (3) x1001 and a maxxlink? I have another x1001 sitting around but, I think I'll just the 2, one amp per coil.

Thanks. Oh hell mutha f***ing yeah, it comes with a bass knob........I've been wanting one of those anyway. Love the test tone switch. Not to bad on price. For the Life of me I can't find the RGM for X series amps any which where.

First post, yippie! Just want to introduce myself, my name is Eddie and just wanted to state this site is very helpful and cool. Some insane rides you guys. My rides consist of a 96Tahoe and 2000 camaro. The Hoe gets the system and bags. The Camaro gets twin turbos. Anyway, Down to bis. I have two Xtant X1001 amps hooked up to two 10w7's in a sealed box. Both W7 cones are frozen so, I'm done with JL. I'm looking to replace both 10's with a single 18 DVC. My question's are as follows: Are my x1001 amps strappable? If not, how should I wire it (one amp each coil)? Sub choices are 1ohm and 2ohm, which would you choose? How can I wire these amps to get 1ohm? Thanks Eddie