nathan89

i did the same....

nice run

ah

Going to be a little while before I start the build... need a H.O. alt and another battery before it can go in.....

not sure.... i would put it on my window but it's like advertising for someone to steal my shit......

do you mean the wire itself on the BL is aluminum? I guess that could explain why it is larger....

From the Fi website... ''Flatwind: The flatwire coil option is standard in the BTL.''


I was just comparing my Fi BTL to my Fi BL and noticed that the wire used on the BL looks larger.... Seems to me the BTL would have larger wiring for the coil since it can handle double the power..... Just thought it was interesting.... what do you guys think? The first pic is the BL. Both of the subs are fully loaded.

I'm going to be powering it with a rockford fosgate T-2000... I'd like to give it more but I have a brand new T2000 just sitting around....

I just got my new Fully Loaded Fi BTL 15'' D2 from UPS today. Took it a while to get here, but I ordered it when they were backordered so I knew it would take a while. It was definitely worth the wait with the freebies they threw in! Can't beat the customer service you get from Fi! Here are some pictures of it. The last couple pictures are of the new BTL 15'' next to my old BL 12'' One more thing.....I just wanted to say thanks to Fi for the free cooling option, t-shirt, and stickers!

I would have stayed on the porch til i got my headunit or my cash....

True. They're a rip off.

I agree with what you guys said, it's not worth the risk of fucking it up myself, and then having to pay to get it fixed. So I called RF today and they are going to take care of it under warranty.

I just hooked up my new Rockford Fosgate T1000.1bd and everything went well except the gain knob on the amp itself is loose. You can move it around from top to bottom without actually turning it, but it will not move side to side. It feels like it is about to break off, but it will still rotate fine. I tried to power up the amp and turn the gain knob while it was powered on and the only thing it will do is send a loud pop through the sub. Sounds like a loose connection. I think the knob is coming loose from the board inside the amp. The knob was loose when I got the amp, and it came directly from Rockford. So what I want to know is..... Has anyone ever had this happen before? I hope it is something I can fix myself. It seems like a simple spot of solder on the board to hold the knob in place and make a good connection and MAYBE it would be fixed. But if it is something more complicated I do have a factory warranty from Rockford since I bought it ''authorized'', so I could send it off if needed. Anybody got a link to show me how to open one of these up? Thanks!

If I had more money I would go but the rest of it.....the black 2/0 was almost a new spool.......

I got it for $5 per foot.

Got some terminals from a local CeeKay Welding Supply for only $2.19 a piece....Thanks for the tip guys. Got them to fit really good on the wire too, a lot better than the 'usual' crimp style... at least for me... I heated them up in the vice with mapp gas and melted some solder into them until they were about a third of the way full, and then stuck the wire in while the solder was still a liquid. Once they cooled down I crimped them too. Made a nice fit.

I picked up some Rockford Fosgate 2/0 wire today for the ground wires in my car, but the place where I bought the wire didn't have any terminals for it. Just wondering where I can find some at a decent price, and I only need 6....

Oh and I have a Honda 400ex and a Suzuki Z-400......The Honda beats it in everything except breaking down. The Suzuki is a nice bike but it has way too many bugs that the Manufacturer never worked out.... And yes......ATV's are my biggest hobby....

I bet it's a model year 2004 or 2005. The 2006 year has a completely new engine.

I guess nobody here has ridden a 2006 or newer Honda 450R with a Factory engine kit (HRC)? I have one and I rarely lose a drag race to anything except full blown drag bikes. And my 450R is completely factory except for tires. The engine kit I have is directly from Honda, not an aftermarket company. If you want an ATV for speed, get a 2006 or newer Honda 450R and order a HRC kit from the dealer. Stay away from the Raptors....you would have to spend a lot of money and time to get it to keep up with a lightly modded 450. And in the handling department, I don't even know what to say other than there is very little on a Raptor. Need a couple grand there just to be comparable to a 450. I guess you guys already know my vote......but if not... ATV! Heres a pic of mine..

BTW the T4000 birthed at 4900 and the T2000's are right at 2600 and 2700. So the T4 would be 4900 RMS And the T2's would be 5300 RMS I'm thinking the T2000's are the winners? Or is there something I should know about the t4000?

Cool guys, thanks for the replies. I guess BTL's it will be! One more question....I have the choice of either using the Rockford T4000 or 2 of the Rockford T2000's. I have all three of them just sitting here.....Whichever one(s) I don't use I will sell.... What would you guys run with 2 18'' BTL's?

Should I still get the BTL's fully loaded? Or maybe just the cooling option? I would think that about 2200 rms on a fully loaded BTL might only tickle it? Or is this enought to get them moving pretty good?

I have a Rockford T4000-1bd in a 2007 Tahoe and was wondering which set of subs would give me more SPL? They will be used daily on music, and be fully loaded. So what do you guys think? Should I get 2 Fully Loaded 18'' BL's OR 2 Fully Loaded 18'' BTL's?