corey0928

Yea so the collision shop hasn't even be able to give me a final quote since there is a shortage of parts. I'm planning on taking it to the dealership I bought the car and potentially another shop or 2. It's been over 2 weeks since the accident and progressive has only contacted me when I persistently contacted them or called the collision shop first. The whole situation is so messed up and I have some major concerns with engineering decisions as far as the air bags go. There is a case for a civil suit to recoup some of the deprecation but probably won't cover all of it.i don't know if my gap insurance will cover anything but still have to contact them.

Everyone except my insurance company and the collision shop seem to think it should be totaled. The exact quote from my insurance was "we aren't in the market for buying and selling used cars so we don't take the value after the collision into account". It's a 2017 GMC Acadia also.

Anyone been in an accident and there was structural damage and they didn't total your vehicle? Looking for advice, other party was 100% at fault and my entire b pillar needs to be replaced as well as rear quarter panel. Have a unibody vehicle and minimum $12k in damage but it's still "not enough" for a total. I know my value is going to drop through the floor and I'm already upside down in my loan since the car is only about 2 years old. Has anyone been able to recoup diminished value from the at fault insurance/individual?

Hertz makes a 5000w amp? I've been out of the game for too long. If you are new to lithium please get some kind of battery monitoring system. Lithium batteries can fail catastrophically if not maintained properly. I would get a high output alternator before anything especially with that kind of power.

Supercaps charge and discharge at a fast rate so they aren't great for continuous loads. And lithium does not do well underhood or in harsh environments without a cooling and/or heating system included. If either of those bother you then sick with agm. I've been following some development with super/ultra caps we are doing at my work and there it's becoming a hard sell for the OEMs so I've been hesitant to recommend them in long term applications.

The fuse is always there to protect the wire. If you short something internally on an amp it's going to be ruined regardless of fusing. A fuse is there to protect from a fire.

You can always use a lower fuse value on a wire but don't use a fuse rated at higher current than the wire.

It can't hurt using the adapter but you shouldn't need to use it. Also if you are going to fuse and the amp has a chance to draw 200A, and you fuse both wires at 100A, you might pop a fuse because you can't guarantee the current will be divided equally and both wires are exactly the same. Plus like Gunnem said, fusing protects the wire not the module.

What was the code

Most automotive modules are designed to run at 16V max but I wouldn't push close to that if you could avoid it.

Voltage drop is caused by resistance of the conducting material, so if you have the resistance of the wire you are using you can calculate what the voltage drop will be. There are calculators online if you need actual numbers.

Can we stop recommending amps that are way too much for people? OP if you build a good enclosure that combo will be enough to shake what you want in your car. Just a heads up, try not to bump hard while riding through neighborhoods. It draws attention and you can out yourself at risk for thief's and annoying your neighbors.

Do you understand the nature of super capacitors? They aren't a battery replacement for daily applications. Ideally you want your alternator(s) to supply the majority of the power and the batteries to be there for reserve if you are idling or you want to play while the car is off. But if you are looking for information you should make a new thread and keep this one on topic. OP can you try to sell your amps and find one that will match the wattage of the subs at 1 ohm wired together? Would be much easier and more efficient than under powering those subs.

Nice video . Seems like that could be a great intro sub for someone if they gave it rated power

If you are burning tinsels, you are giving the sub a dirty signal or overpowering it. Any speaker is made to last a long time with rated power even if it's over 2000 Watts. And kicker doesn't make high power speakers because it's a niche market and they tend to lean towards the normal person that doesn't want to violently shake their car to pieces but have a little extra thump in their music.