stephenes89

fresh

I came across a BTL 15" for sale, the seller says it is Fully loaded. and im not sure if he has any paper work on it. and I was wondering if there is anyway to determin wheater not if the sub is actually Loaded or not. -Thanks

ha!

are ya'll saying to move the wires to the next terminal and try it? like keep moving them in a clock wise motion etc. until they work? this is all differnt to me, i've always had 2 ohm subs. the ones i have now are dual 4 ohm, just such a difference in wiring

well, haha i guess i don't know car audio anymore.. I pulled both subs out of the box and they're wired the same, I only replaced one so I know the other one is correct. and i know i didn't touch the amp for any reason. I guess im gonna head to the local audio shop in the morning. yay!

I would feel like an idiot if thats the case, but hope thats what it is. Thanks,

ok, I blew a sub about a week ago and got my replacment in yesterday. All i did was take the blown sub out and replace it with the new one. I turn the car on and turn it up a little bit and theres no more bass, they still move alot but just no thump...Why do you think this happend?? before I replaced the blown one, the single 12" was pounding. the box was build for two memphis 12"s, and the specs on my soundstreams recomend 4 cubic ft. for the two. and i know the box there in is no where near 4 cubes.

over the yrs i have basically delt with kicker and went to soundstream recently, im looking for (ground pounder) a good sq from a sub that can also perform without breakin the bank. and im wanting to find two subs that have legit 1000-rms each. i tend to get a little loose with the volume and im somewhat tired of replacing subs w. 750-rms.. i got to happy with my volume the other day and blew basically a brand new speaker...four cvr 12's held up pretty damn well with my amp/ and noticed in my opinion the cvr's hit somewhat harder than the cvx's i've had(12's and the 15's) i would just like to have a trunk again and wanting to try and stay with two 12's, and i came across the pioneer premiers and caught me attention/ pioneers have tended to be b.s but... i have never heard or knew anyone with these premiers and everywhere i have checked states the same specs. i just dont want to buy a b.s system to only blow it 30min after i hook 'em up thanks,

What are ya'lls thoughts about the Pioneer Premium Ts-3002-D2 Subwoofers, _- I currently have two Soundstream Splx-124 750-Rms/1500-Max, but today one of them froze up completly and now im thinking of somthing else. any and all opinions appreciated.. Thanks, and im using a Hifonics Brutus BXI 2010D Amp. Pioneer Premier TS-W3002D2 12" 3500W Dual 2 ohm Champion PRO Series Subwoofer Technical Specification Sensitivity: 90 dB RMS Power Range : 1000 Watts Peak Power Handling: 3500 Watts Impedance: Dual 2 Ohm Low Frequency response: 20 Hz High Frequency Response: 150 Hz Diameter: 12 Inch Features Impedance: Dual 2 ohms Interlaced basalt/carbon fiber reinforced IMPP cone Wide-roll, 3-layer fiber woven aramid radial with honeycomb cloth surround Phenol resin coated glass cloth bobbin Copper voice coil wire Dual 4-layer, long voice coil Double stacked (110oz) magnet Frequency response: 20-150 Hz Sensitivity: 90 dB Aluminum die-cast rigid chassis basket design 1-Piece rubber gasket Integrated single-sided silver compression wire terminals Mounting Depth: 7-1/2"

thanks

Does anyone know any easy ways to remove Pin Striping??

sounds quicker than pickin that crap out by hand

damn, wish i knew that then.. thanks for the tip tho

x2 on MXmike.. i've had wires snag before and i've giving it a lil to much of a pull (which i shouldnt have pulled as much as i did) and stretched the wire, pullin the wire apart, which i've done a shit ton on small wires such as 12g and act. had it melt dwn and stick to my carpet/interior, (not a fun mess to clean) which i use to do it when i would try and install quickly.. not the smartest thing to do