stephenes89

fresh

I came across a BTL 15" for sale, the seller says it is Fully loaded. and im not sure if he has any paper work on it. and I was wondering if there is anyway to determin wheater not if the sub is actually Loaded or not. -Thanks

ha!

are ya'll saying to move the wires to the next terminal and try it? like keep moving them in a clock wise motion etc. until they work? this is all differnt to me, i've always had 2 ohm subs. the ones i have now are dual 4 ohm, just such a difference in wiring

well, haha i guess i don't know car audio anymore.. I pulled both subs out of the box and they're wired the same, I only replaced one so I know the other one is correct. and i know i didn't touch the amp for any reason. I guess im gonna head to the local audio shop in the morning. yay!

I would feel like an idiot if thats the case, but hope thats what it is. Thanks,

ok, I blew a sub about a week ago and got my replacment in yesterday. All i did was take the blown sub out and replace it with the new one. I turn the car on and turn it up a little bit and theres no more bass, they still move alot but just no thump...Why do you think this happend?? before I replaced the blown one, the single 12" was pounding. the box was build for two memphis 12"s, and the specs on my soundstreams recomend 4 cubic ft. for the two. and i know the box there in is no where near 4 cubes.

over the yrs i have basically delt with kicker and went to soundstream recently, im looking for (ground pounder) a good sq from a sub that can also perform without breakin the bank. and im wanting to find two subs that have legit 1000-rms each. i tend to get a little loose with the volume and im somewhat tired of replacing subs w. 750-rms.. i got to happy with my volume the other day and blew basically a brand new speaker...four cvr 12's held up pretty damn well with my amp/ and noticed in my opinion the cvr's hit somewhat harder than the cvx's i've had(12's and the 15's) i would just like to have a trunk again and wanting to try and stay with two 12's, and i came across the pioneer premiers and caught me attention/ pioneers have tended to be b.s but... i have never heard or knew anyone with these premiers and everywhere i have checked states the same specs. i just dont want to buy a b.s system to only blow it 30min after i hook 'em up thanks,

What are ya'lls thoughts about the Pioneer Premium Ts-3002-D2 Subwoofers, _- I currently have two Soundstream Splx-124 750-Rms/1500-Max, but today one of them froze up completly and now im thinking of somthing else. any and all opinions appreciated.. Thanks, and im using a Hifonics Brutus BXI 2010D Amp. Pioneer Premier TS-W3002D2 12" 3500W Dual 2 ohm Champion PRO Series Subwoofer Technical Specification Sensitivity: 90 dB RMS Power Range : 1000 Watts Peak Power Handling: 3500 Watts Impedance: Dual 2 Ohm Low Frequency response: 20 Hz High Frequency Response: 150 Hz Diameter: 12 Inch Features Impedance: Dual 2 ohms Interlaced basalt/carbon fiber reinforced IMPP cone Wide-roll, 3-layer fiber woven aramid radial with honeycomb cloth surround Phenol resin coated glass cloth bobbin Copper voice coil wire Dual 4-layer, long voice coil Double stacked (110oz) magnet Frequency response: 20-150 Hz Sensitivity: 90 dB Aluminum die-cast rigid chassis basket design 1-Piece rubber gasket Integrated single-sided silver compression wire terminals Mounting Depth: 7-1/2"

thanks

Does anyone know any easy ways to remove Pin Striping??

sounds quicker than pickin that crap out by hand

damn, wish i knew that then.. thanks for the tip tho

x2 on MXmike.. i've had wires snag before and i've giving it a lil to much of a pull (which i shouldnt have pulled as much as i did) and stretched the wire, pullin the wire apart, which i've done a shit ton on small wires such as 12g and act. had it melt dwn and stick to my carpet/interior, (not a fun mess to clean) which i use to do it when i would try and install quickly.. not the smartest thing to do

any kinks/pinches in the wire

i was probly around 7-800rms when it started to crack etc. each amp has a toggle switch on the remote wire's, so i had the amp for my mids/highs off at the time, im just wondering if my alt. is about to beat it.. few months ago there was no problem, the stock alts 105amps even though it still uses like half to run the car, another thing thats just pickin at me is when it was working i had the subs wired differntly. (at the time i hadnt seen a QVC before and didnt kno how to wire one so i took a guess and it worked for then, then i got the diagram and they basically havnt worked since i wired them how it said to..i did wire them back to how i had them but still nothing.. and i did take the volt meter to the outputs and got nothing, like once or twice it bumped up and read like .01 or somthing, not enough to do anything then it went back down

could my electrical syatem be failing from to much of a drop/ to much being pulled - side note i am still working with my stock alternator.. havnt yet met up w. Dom yet..

im about 90% positive the sub output is turned on, on the headunit, the ground is on one of the bolts to my frame holding the rear seat down. ( its never been an issue. the setup has worked previously but has decided not to latley..i grinded/sanded the spot down good for connection

Wire Diagram for QVC's < theres the diagram im using now (the first one) the amp is turning on and the power light is on, on the amp. it is an Hifonics Brutus BXI 2010, everything was turned down when i installed it, when i started to set the gain. i would get to about half way up and the system would start to basically shut off..not the amp my Comp speakers would start to like..crack kind of.. but i never heard anything from the subwoofers (soundstream SPLX 124) Before I sent my HiFi BXI 2008D back to the manufacture i was having the same problem..was actually the reason i sent it back and they swapped it out ad gave me the 2010D and im still having this problem.

fuse is in ( Comp Amp is working )..and so is the remote wire.. i have two 12" QVC's wired at 2-ohm

ok im fed up with troubleshooting...im running two amps off of my distribution block, the amp for my comp's works fine no problem with it, but my amp for my subwoofers isn't giving me a lick of output. brand new amp.. any input on what the hell may be going on would be fantastic.. Thanks, Hifonics Brutus Bxi2010D sold grounds power going in but not out

are you talking about making adapter plates for where the 6x9's are located?? and putting like 4", 5" or 6 1/2 or somthing

alright, thanks! yea im usin a hifonics, the two are rite nxt to ea. other...may just end up doin the block, i got one around here somwhere.. wonderin how somthing like a lil strip of foam with electrical tape coverin to insulate the (+) from (-) would wrk..

its always fun tryin to put a 0g wire into an amp...so i havnt seen it yet, nor really look for it. but would using a wire reducer be alright to connect to an amp..?..i dont see why it should be a problem, but would rather see if people are doin it and if it works good, b4 i go and buy them. thanks