teamace24

If i were you i would save some money and not go with that soundstream price. I have both the audioque 1200d and audiopipe ap1500 and honestly both are top notch amps and do rated. I love both.

My friends hcca was a 4 ohm coil so his choice was only a 2 ohm stable amp so he chose the kicker zx. This was before many people had even heard of the audiopipe 3000 which would have been his best bet. If he had a 2 ohm sub like you this 2600 hifonics would have definately been the one to get so go for it. You should also look in to an audipipe aqx 2500 or aqx 3500 (be careful) and compare prices, they all would do great.

Ive had experience with those big orion hcca and i must say this and please listen, they are POWER hungry. My friend had his 12 with a zx1500 kicker which rated at 1800 watts rms at 2 ohms and let me tell you the orion was laughing at it and his setup was not loud at all. You definately need to give this sub at the very minimum 2200 rms and more preferably. They do sound nice and with power they are great. Also do not do sealed they must be ported for the loudest sound.

Wow what are the odds i just happened to have bought this exact same looking amp from yard sale around where i live. This price is ridiculous BUT i have to say i have a similar looking Audiobahn A1300HCq and i have to say i am impressed. It has 3 30 amp fuses and its rated for a 1200rms at 1 ohm load. I have as you can see an ap1500 and an aq 1200d and i tried all three of these amps on my 2 15 AQ sdc2.5 subs. All were very similar in output with the Ap being slightly but not even much to mention louder, Aq right there with it, and this audiobahn just as loud as my AQ. I still love my aq better than all of the due to its very good crossover, looks, and great customer service. I am just adding some info that not all 100 percent of the audiobahns are that bad although they should not overrate their other models but the one i have is definately rated correctly again only my opinion. This audiobahn also weighs the total of my ap and aq, maybe its the butt ugly flames on the front.

Google sae wire specifications and i read that it was smaller than awg specs so yeah thats an alright deal but its a little smaller than car audio gauge.

What kind of vehicle do you have cc.

Scarlett Jo the finest girl in hollywood, i was just going to name this movie.

Audioque price for what you get is very reasonable.

If you want 20, go to ebay and enter on the search button '0 gauge ring terminals 20' and it will give you the ones i bought. Also you have to choose what size hole you want on the terminals.

Yeah as long as your wire fits in the terminal they all do the same job. All copper ones will get corroded a lot quicker than gold plated but as long you take care of your stuff itll be ok. Go to the for sale section and there is a way better deal on 0 gauge terminals than the ones you showed. I bought a 20 pack on ebay last week for about 20 bucks shipped too.

Just wondering if im overthinking it with the Stinger coupler not having good conductivity with the allen screws and just go ahead and get it and wrap it with electrical tape?

Since the coupler uses allen screws to tighthen the wire is it getting enough contact compared to a fuse holder?

Thats exactly what was running through my mind using that coupler and wrapping it up with a ton of electrical tape. But then i was thinking about the conductivity, will a coupler give me more less or the same resistance as using a plain ole inline fuse holder with a fuse?

That 0 gauge stinger coupler sure looks good but maybe too good to be true since you guys are saying inline fuse. I already have and inline fuse a couple inches from the battery where my 0 gauge will start to go to the back but when it hits 15 feet i still need to add that 3 feet. So if i get the inline fuse do i just connect one end with the red wire which is the long one, and the other end with the blue. See my problem is that i am also running a fused distribution block where this 0 gauge will go in and convert to two 4 gauge wires so is a fuse holder to connect the two wires really the best idea? I really like that coupler but i want to be safe first off.

Just a quick problem i hope you guys can solve it for me. I have some 0 gauge fleks cable that i bought in two different colors one blue one red. Both are each 15 feet long. My question is this, i need 18 feet from my front battery to my amp that is in my backseat and was wondering since i already used up 10 feet of the blue for my big 3 how do i, or can i, hook up both the blue and red pieces together so they can give me the 18 feet i need. I know im going to cut the blue to 3 feet but what is the most safest, highest conductivity, and cheapest way to do it?

Im assuming you played the same songs to test both systems so it could be that your box is tuned a little lower than it should be since he has audioques im sure hes tuned at 36 hz plus right? Check your voltage as well since you are running ebay 2 gauge also check that it is quality wire compare it to stinger or knu or kicker wire or even your friends wire.

Wow.... Now im going to have to read up if im using the right fuses i thought my 0 gauge can handle 350 amps and dont fuses just protect the wire besides the fuses on the amps that protect the amp. If both my amps are a total of 160 amps is using a 200 amp fuse for my wire ok or should i go lower or higher.

He swears by them but anyhow after i put my inline fuse holder the power wire will go to back seat where i have my amps and it will go to a fused distribution block that also shows my voltage and then i distribute 4 gauge wire to both my bass and highs amp.

Definitely that was my old school brother he used to have the old school mid 90's lanzar fifteens very loud but he left the game a long time ago. Im thinking inline fuse holder with a 200 amp fuse since my two amps wont be pulling more than 160 amps and my 0 gauge cant withstand over 350 amps.

Got zip ties thanks a bunch i know these pics made it easy for me and i know it will help other folks.

Wow what a help i was stressing over this just a little but you pretty much laid all out there for me and to think i ordered so much 0 gauge for the big 3 and now i dont need it. One last question, which wires will i need to protect like will i have to route them somewhere or just how you have them drawn? I think i can put them in that black casing that stock cables are in around the engine.

Cool yeah i have plenty of 0 gauge so are you saying with that picture my big 3 is covered of course with the alt to positive as well. Its just that i always read that engine block to frame and battery negative to frame so is yours the same. Like does the alt bracket mean engine block or frame and what does that yellow mark mean does that connect to frame or engine block. Thanks for all the help.

I heard the alt bracket is not the greatest place a while back but if you think so then i will do it. Im not quite understanding your last sentence does that mean that your picture which i was going to follow is still right or do i just go alternator brack to negative or where is that strut bolt by the alternator or by the driver window where your blue line ends. Thanks.

Im finally doing the bog 3 in the next few days all with knukonceptz 0 gauge fleks ofc, and i took pictures of my hood to get ideas on how exactly im going to do it and if im doing the 3 right. I am only running one huge 100 pound C&D battery that does around 139 ah model C&D UPS12-490MR with my stock 160 amp alternator on my 2007 yukon. Plan on running an audioque 1200 watt amp with two sdc 2.5 15 subs. Big 3: 1) Alternator + to Battery + : This one is straight forward just will get my wire put ring terminals on each end attach one to the alternator without removing the bolt, and attach the other to the battery positive. I am going no fuse unless someone thinks i should. This is where i get stuck i need to know the best place to attach my grounds to and if someone can point them out on the pics. 2)Battery - to chassis or frame same thing? : obviously again it will be ring terminals on each end one going to the battery negative and the other part is where im stuck, does anybody see that welding wire in the first picture its coming from either the engine block i think or maybe the frame, it might be where the factory engine to frame ground is, What can i do with this? 3) Chassis or frame to engine block : Also stuck but im sure whenever i find my chassis frame this will be where im going to put one end of my wire as well and then i have to find an engine block ground Also are my two grounds going to piggy back on each other at the chassis frame and is this recommended? Please ignore my current wiring as i will have 0 gauge fleks now instead of these cheap wires plus this was done by an older brother for a little cheap 400 watt amp now im upgrading.