Mobile Chassis Dyno

I wish I had an SPL meter for inside the shop. Some of cars and alot of the drag bikes I tune can make your ears ring.

Be prepared for warranty claims with Procharger. While they make really good power, I have seem a number of them fail which ends up pumping the motor with aluminum shavings. Your sig say you are making 560 to the tires now. To make more power then that with a procharger you are going to need to at least a D1SC. What do you have for a shortblock now? What about fuel system? I have tuning mustangs since 2003. www.dynotunemotorsports.com Let me know if you have any questions.

I am in Ohio as well. Depending on what you have left I might be interested.

This is what I do fun. Oops I mean work. I know it is not car audio. I figured some of you would still like the video. 2002 Camaro 383 Stroker, Heads, Cam, Fast Intake (Built for Nitrous) 480 rwhp 460 rwtq on motor 733 rwhp 867 rwtq on a 200 shot. Custom Tuning using HP Tuners Needed some weight in the trunk to get traction on the rollers. Maybe he needs to do some 18's and amps instead of these monkeys!!! name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>"> name="allowFullScreen" value="true"></param><param name="allowscriptaccess" value="always"></param><embed src=" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" width="425" height="344"></embed></object>" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" width="425" height="350">

Maybe I should use the search function of this forum. What is the big 3? (Edit: Google is my friend) The polyfill was in the box from many moons ago. I did not think to remove it. RE calls for .75 to 1 cubes with .85 being ideal. I believe I am right around 1.18. The subs are rated at 300rms. I have each speaker voice coil wired in series and then parelled which should put me at a 2ohm load. I should be at no more then 250 watts rms. I thought I could maybe get away with the bigger air space being that I am running less power. I have an Optima battery that I use on my motorcycle dyno for the o2 sensor. I am thinking about stealing it from the dyno and putting it in the car and see if that helps with the voltage drop.

Thank you for all the replies regarding the cap and battery. I believe I can sneak a battery in on the passenger side of the car next to the sub closest to the rear of the car. I was suprised to see a reply about the cap hurting more then helping me. I agree that is not helping much as the headlights dim quickly with a strong bass note. Voltage goes from 14.6 to 13.0 as soon as it hits.

I really like them. For the money I have in them I can not complain. However I want to point out I have been away from this for a long long time. You might as well call me a newbie. I know the last time I was at a car audio show was in 1995. I am sure things have changed. As far as the cap goes do you think I would be better going with a bigger cap or another battery or both? I believe this one to be a 1/2 Farad Cap.

I built this enclosure back in either 99 or 2000. I can not remember. I originally had a store bought enclosure and woke up one day with it missing. I then decided to build something that would make it hard to be taken without knowing how it went in. So box shown here requires that you go in at an angle to clear the interior panels. The front seats have to be moved all the way forward. Once the rear of the box clears the plastic interior in the hatch area it will slide back into place. Box dimensions are 36"x37"x9". I used 3/4 mdf. I believe each chamber to be 1.22 cubes before the sub. First subs were a Circuit City Special. 2 Pairs of JBL 12's I think I paid $100.00 for each pair. LOL The first amp was a Kenwood KAC-746. I kept having problems with the thermal protection kicking in at 2ohm load on each channel. I then came across a Alpine MRV-100m for CHEAP. Now fast forward to 2010. I still have the car. Not really sure why being that I have 4 mustangs, a Z06, Dodge Diesel Dually to pull the car dyno, and a ford ranger to pull the bike dyno. I have like my little probe. Car is still fun to me to drive. However I am in need of a little more boom. I posted on a local sport bike forum that I was looking for a bigger amp. One of my customers was selling an Alpine V12 AccuClass-D MRD M1000 Amplifier for $150.00. Seemed like a good amp for the money. In went the amp and right away I noticed a big difference in the sound quality with the JBL's. However I still wanted more. I then made a phone call to the guy who does my tinting and asked him what he saw people using at the shops he does tinting for. He suggested RE, American Bass, and DD. I did my research and found that RE had subs that would work good with my enclosure that I already had. I then placed an order for 4 of the RE SRX D4 12's and this is where I am now. More bass then I really need. I can not get over how well bass tones between 20hz and 30 hz sounds. It is now time for some new mid's and highs. Couple random pics of my junk. Now all I need to do is decide on how to finish the box. Out with the old subs And in with the new

sx series have been replaced with srx. Like I said in my other post they are on that website with free shipping.

www.audiosavings.com I just bought two pairs of RE Audio SRX D4 12's for $419.90. I believe they sell for $109.95 each or $209.95 for a pair.