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jeyrapboy

SMD Gold Member
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About jeyrapboy

  • Birthday 01/19/1992

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.youtube.com/jeyrapboy
  • Skype
    jamesyoder2

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Louisville, ky
  • Interests
    Interested in cars in general and of course car audio!
    Mini Trucks, Fabrication, Learning and Most importantly my friends and family.

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  1. Im not saying your wrong im going off what I have experienced first hand, You ask just about anyone with some common sense in the car audio field where to ground and 99% of the time the response will be "if possible straight to frame cleaned to bare metal" That my friend is how i have done it sense my jeep about burned to the ground from a bad ground, Big 3 is done, I had (up until about 1 hour ago) a voltage meter hooked up to my amp to measure the voltage. Its funny because even though you would have ALL that done i only had a stock alt, Group 34 batt and the big 3 done and really didn't have any voltage drop once i fixed my ground. No im not trying to be a know it all, Im sharing with YOU knowledge that i know, stuff that i have known sense i started putting systems in. Correct me if i am wrong, until then i will keep on keepin on. Also i did answer your questions minus one because i didnt see that one, the specs on the amp @1 ohm is 1500, Clamped it might do 1k
  2. Dont ground to the frame? Your aware that the battery i would be buying to stick in the back has to be grounded to the frame at some point correct? Be it grounded to the frame in the back, or grounded to the front battery which in turn is still grounded to the frame.... Not trying to sound like a dick buy just sayin... Also i got the amplifier from techforce
  3. Just got home from work, Pulled out the DMM and Started getting some readings, I got 12.7 at the batt and 12.5 at the amp Unhooked the sub and it still goes into protect as soon as the key turns over Going to try the RCA suggestion because now that i think about it someone that i know had the same issue, Thanks for bringing that up man
  4. It's a older double slug SSD 12 wired to 1 ohm Ill put my meter on it and see what the voltage is at the amp when I get home, I'll also test the load on the sub just to eliminate it.
  5. Yea I'm not sure, I'm pretty stumped.
  6. Yea it went into protect, I turned off the truck when I got home. Left for the store, it played another couple minutes and now it just goes into protect as soon as the ignition comes on. I pulled the speaker wire thinking it might have been a impedance issue, Still no luck.
  7. OK so I just got my system in my s10 Friday night. Monday on the way home from work I had my system about half my normal listening volume. All of sudden it was quite, figured it was a fuse. I get home checked my 300 under the Hood and the 3 45s at the amp and they all look good. Ground is to straight frame and clean as a whistle Pulled the amp cover thinking it was something inside and I find nothing looking abnormal Any ideas on what it could be let me know Amp is a Re xt4000D
  8. yea i know what it is, I have done it on my friends dads tahoe
  9. Im going from the stock 97 s10 sealed beam front end http://www.google.co...iw=1920&bih=955 To this http://www.google.co...iw=1920&bih=955 i have already sunk $200 in parts for the conversion so Low beam HID's will work for now. EDIT: Neither truck is mine just images i googled for real quick
  10. yea someone had mentioned that Luckly pulling the number 15 fuse on my 97 s10 killed them, but fyi if you got fogs it kills those to for future reference yeah mine has stock fog lights but when i replaced my headlight assembly's i went with out them, the healight with the built in foglight was alot more expensive I was going to do those but for that front end I have to change core supports. Them look sick with HID retros
  11. yea someone had mentioned that Luckly pulling the number 15 fuse on my 97 s10 killed them, but fyi if you got fogs it kills those to for future reference
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