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Everything posted by RickyFriery97
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What airspace would yal recommend for a Audioque hdc3 18" on a Audioque 2200D after all displacement? Sub up port forward
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there is no such thing. you can use the scope to find voltage i guess. but like i said before a scope cost 2-3k on the cheap side. so if you were looking for a dmm with a scope if there is such a thing it would cost probably 5-6k now there are dmms with a capture feature but not the same as a o-scope. thats just reading volts, ohms, or ac current over a period of time. where a scope is frequencies and signals The TPI scope plus 440 on mobile solutions is $389 I've got a sperry multimeter at home for voltage readings and ohm readings I'll get the scope plus440 to set my headunit and to set my amp gains
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i want a meter with a built in oscope that mainly i will just use it for voltage AC/DC ohm readings and the oscope to tune my amps and set up my headunit the tpi scope pluse 440 is looking like a good unit for me fluke seems very good too but more industrial type i just need a simple multimeter with a oscope
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Fluke is always a good way to go with multimeters, that's a very expensive model if I remember it correctly and unless you're opening a shop it isn't necessary. As for scopes TPI-440 all the way, it is a good multimeter and a fairly easy to use oscope. i was originally looking at the tpi my uncle was looking into it for me and he has a buddy thats get equipment for our company dealer cost and he said that was alot better unit then the tpi but its going to be for personal use and the fluke seems alot harder to use and the tpi seems like a good reliable easy unit to use
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i was told to look in to th fluke 867be multimeter any opinions on the mulitmeter? EDIT: what fluke multimeter do yal use with an oscope?
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yea big three upgrade in 1/0 and a second battery ran in parallel with 1/0 to the back battery with a good fuse inbetween the power and 1/0 to the amp power AND ground with a good clean ground and a the right size fuse inbetween the amp and battery with i think would be 200 amp the 2200d is fully stable to 1 ohm i wouldnt run it a .5 unless i had VERY good electrical if it were me id run it at two ohms or recone to D2 and wire it down to 1 ohm but its your choice hit up knukonceptz for some 1/0 wire and darvex for terminals and fuse holders
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i wanna see this cause i have a 07 tahoe the charging system dosent charge at a steady 14 volt all the time to help with gas mileage and what not it dosent charge if the truck tells it that it dosent need to so im looking for a way to over ride that or just run a seperate charging system im thinkin some 18s in my hoe too
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Yea I'm going to try that I just looked it up The amp does 215 watts x 4 RMS at 2 ohms Maybe I have something backwards somewhere and that's why it's going in to protect I'll just re wire it
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I would rather use just the 850. 4 But I don't know why it keeps going into protect..
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It's only one set of comps the rest are two ways I wish I wouldve got all comps but I didnt How would I get them all to 2 ohm stereo??
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ok ive got a kicker zx850.4 runnin one side of my suburban (2 rockford 6 1/2 per door) then a older kicker kx700.5 runnin the other side(2 rockford 6 1/2 per door) so when i have the volume up around 30-32 on my alpine headunit and if i turn the gain up on the kicker zx850.4 it will go into protect i have no clue why its grounded directly to my D3100 and same with power right off the D3100 kicker 4 channel RCA`s my kicker 700.5 dosent go into protect at all and i can turn the amp and headunit all the way up i tried hookin ip the 850.4 on the wires and rcas that the 700.5 was on and the same thing happend went into protect anybody got any ideas?? i still got the recipt but its been over 6 months i might be able to exchange it at the shop thanks for any help
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That is a very good point He won't want to sell it so I'll just ha e to make it sealed Thanks for the help!
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If it was up to me I would But it's for a friend of mine Trust me I know l7 love space if you look at my build log I have 4 l7 15s and my box is over 20 cubes But this is what he gave me to work with and he won't sell it and get something else I could maybe get a Lil more room if I built it in the trunk but I couldn't even get my tools in there to finish it It's a really small trunk I've got a plan drawn out right now with only 43.5 square inches of port tuned to 36 hz If it was up to me I'd sell it and get on legit 12 But it's for my friend and it's what he wants and he's paying me so that's what I'm building him
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ok i was just with my friend and i was measured out his trunk and it was alot smaller then i thought... my dimensions i have now are outer dimensions L- 16" W- 30" H- 16 comes out to 3.46766 cubes internal any bigger and ill have to build it in the trunk and im not doing that.. not much room to play with and i want it ported sub will be ran at two ohms on a hifonics brutus BRZ 2100.1D with specs are 1400watts at 2 ohm but the car is all stock electrical so it probally will be seein barley more then 1000watts i want it ported with a slot port tuned no higher then 36hz i was thinkin a port 10 inches wide and 5 inches high but how long?? sub facing towards the seats and port firing driver side internal width is 28.5 inches any help is appreciated im still confused with tuning boxes but im getting there
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The sub will be ran at 2 ohms on a hifonics amp I can't remember witch one though Those dimensions put it right under 5 cubes It's going in a trunk too
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How tall would you make it though? I wanted to put the port along the bottom of the box under the sub? And what would that put my tuning at? Edit: ok how bout the port 5 inches high 12 inches wide and 25 inches long? That's 60 square inches of port right? What would the tuning be? Around 32hz?
