AssKicker

Yep thats it, and whats the easiest way to strip the wires?

Is it safe to use a lighter to burn wire casings for easy strips? Worried about my car's safety. Thanks.

I suggest you work on that lol. and I'm a rookie at installs and I even know how to properly run wire hahahaha splicing 2 and 12 awg we can only pity the retard.

Yeah give it a listen good bass notes IMO.

Nooo those are the input but I'm just going to make it easy for future upgrades and grabbing miakehls LOC and tapping 23-26 (Rear door LH and RH speakers output).

Oh I'll have one. It'll start with a stock battery and stock alt for a little while (about a month) so I'll see some dimming, but in about two months Ill be beatin down the block

Ok I figured everything out, 8 & 9 are speaker level, but the amp I am buying is speaker level compatible, so an 8 & 9 tap, along with a tap of the signal wire will be perfect!

Wait I'm really confused now. My stock amp has a rear woofer (+ and -) for both woofers, and then a separate sound signal cable (+ or -). It is to my understanding that the LOC is mean for hooking up the signal that goes to the speakers because that signal is different, while the sound signal cable is the one I'm tapping into to get an rca lead. Edit: I figured it out! What i'm tapping into is the stock woofer amp, so the signal cables are set no conversion needed, just need to directly splice RCA plugs in. Edit 2: More reading reveals that my HU does not not change the response, instead the amp does that. What this means is the connection going from my HU to the Woofer amp is clean and low level.

Hmm I think I'll listen to you guys and get a line out converter. Now how do I connect a two channel converter to the positive and negative?

Its a bose amp, people on the g37 forums have just straight tapped that to either a single rca and used a y-splitter or used a double rca and twisted the postives and negative and wired it up that way. Have you used quick connects?

I don't need that, the factory just split the rca into 2 leads to feed into the stock amp. So by tapping that I get rca, tapping the signal wire I get that, and then I just run my power from the battery up front. And I'm running a strong amp power acoustic A3000DB (2300 watts rms) feeding into a single level 5 12".

Help anyone? how do quick connects work?

See i would easily do that, but the problem is they are thin and attached to a plug. Do you know how quick connectors work?

Well after reading some literature on my wiring set up, I cannot remove the head unit out of my G37, meaning I have to tap the connections into the stock amp which is located beneath the back seat. Now I have never used quick connectors in my life, nor have I cut into an RCA, but what I need to do is quick connect the + and - lead of my stock amp into a double rca, which will be twisted into positive and negative, and then from there it's easy as hell. So my question simply, how do quick connectors work, and what does the inside of an audio rca look like?

2. How about HiFonics? 3. Will do, I used sketch up and made a good ported prototype, just want verify the physics are optimal. 4. Sweet! I see you drive a mustang, you must have a the same trunk limits I do lol

Hey guys, seeing as you all are experts of the field thought I would ask a few questions. 1. If any one has worked on a G37, how hard is it to get to the signal wires and rca's? 2. Is this ok to use for the amp? http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_14614_...LFA1-4000D.html 3. I designed a box and was wondering if someone could point me to tutorials and other useful information so I can make sure I did everything correctly. 4. Can someone with personal experience describe to me how the Level 4 XL 12" performs or are there better alternatives?