bustedassblazer

it would depend on the v6 that the car is equipped with..the 2.7's are a bit sluggish but my 3.5 is very peppy...the poor throttle response is due to a dumb ass electric throttle(no cable). That is an AMAZING car for a 16 year old..i wish i coulda been so lucky...the major thing to worry about is with the 2.7 liter v6 dodge chrysler cars there is a real problem with head gasket failure

the fuse that I have been refering to is the one under the hood..if you are blowing the fuses in the amp(taking into account that you are refering to the two 30 amp fuses) then you should probably have someone check your install..it soulds like you may have a minor issue or two...and please set the phase selector to 0 and forget that it even exists..it has NOTHING to due with your problem...and is your ground attached with a screw or is it bolted to bare metal

it could possibly quite a few things in your situation...i usually run those amps on a fifty to sixty amp fuse with no issues..unless your cars electrical sucks completely i would almost immediately rule out voltage issues blowing the fuse..an improper ground could cause the fuse to blow...clipped signals could as well...unless the installers you have available are complete knuckleheads they should be able to solve this problem no sweat and the phase selection 0 or 180 degrees has ABSOLUTELY NOTHING to do with you blowing fuses...i would explain its purpose but it offers no regard to this situation

little overpriced..paid $13,000 for my '07 Magnum with 40,000 miles...the 3.5 liter v6s are decent but the 2.7's are complete shit...these cars have very soft steering and a terrible suspension..trunks are kinda huge but really SHORT in my opinion...battery being in the trunk is kickass though...not many mods available besides the obvious dressup

sounds like a voltage issue to me...possibly an improper ground...amp specs appear to be a kenwood 9104D which is no current monster by any means...and that phasing issue that installer threw at you was COMPLETE bullshit

didnt even consider that option...had my blinders on i guess..hell with that approach you could use just about any efficient home audio oriented woofer

If the alarm your buying is also a remote start then i would say ADS-AL-CA by iDatalink or newer Flashlogic...by far the best bypass modules out there..IMHO

if this alternator lead is going to the battery under the hood then just curious to the need of a fuse at all

if its an all in one home theater system then normally NO due to the fact that the internal amp usually drives the sub...if the main has an audio out then you could add a powered sub as long as hit has a low pass built in