bustedassblazer

if it stops then its time to see if its inducted through the rcas or produced by the headunit...if it still does it then its coming from the amplifier

now we are gettin somewhere...unplug the rca from the amp and see if the noise is still there

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this post makes absolutely no sense...are you referring to soldering the terminals onto the power and ground wire

lots of people solder EVERY connection...i just think its overkill...i only solder remote start connections anymore

hes gonna need both an iron(for soldering the remote wire) and a torch(if hes wanting to solder the terminals onto the power and ground wires)....personally i see no problem with a t-tap on the remote wire(if its installed correctly) being as it is such a low current application...and unless the amp kit is 0/1 gauge any set of klein style crimpers should do the trick for the terminals...i use soft copper terminals because they crimp WORLDS easier

thats fukkin cheap for that much labor...i wouldnt go near that fab job for 500 bucks.....and there really is no fiberglass work involved there...bunch of ABS fab and finish work...tons of time getting everything test fitted and buttoned down...honestly not really the job for a novice on a vehicle of that caliber

times 3...that product is way overpriced...why in the hell would you pay almost double that what the competition sells the equivelant if not better product for

on a home audio reciever the sub out IS an rca low level output...it is meant to sent signal via rca to a POWERED sub...there is deff no way to power a subwoofer directly from this connection

just run the front two channels of the amp to the speakers....as so you only need to run the front rcas from the deck to the channel 1/2 input of the amp

read through the whole post....its a HOME THEATER IN A BOX type deal...normally the sub just has speaker wire the come of the receiver...some of the newer sony and onkyo stuff we carry at work the sub is powered..but even still the signal wire is still high level

i never turn them on..but this customer wanted it...i could really care less if ignition controlled locks wasnt even a programming option

only experience i have is with dei units...just make sure you buy from an AUTHORIZED dealer and have it installed there so you have your GREAT warranty...dont have any experience with other alarms but i fukkin love my 5701..but ive put on avital and python pieces that work just as well(seeing how the internals of the units are the same)

anyone had any problems with newer dei remote start/keyless units not operating ignition controlled doorlocks properly...car was an 06 Hyundai Sonata. Tried two different 4103xv brains with no luck..all other features programmed flawlessly

got me pretty curious if i do say so