bird333

I got total resistance is 12 ohm so current is 1A. A * R=V so 8 ohm resistor has a 8v drop and the 4 ohm has a 4v drop. W=A*V so 8 ohm resistor has 8w of power and 4 ohm resistor has 4w of power. Does this sound right?

You indicated that a battery isolator wasn't a good idea. Why is that?

Termlab!!!

Great video. Can someone explain how the frequency affects the power correction number?

Audio noob here. How does he know what 'useable bandwidth' is? I thought he was kinda finding that out by looking at the ohms. Still confused.

We want to see a video of it playing after it's tuned.

Nice!!!

Can't wait to see the finished product. Great work so far!

Oh ok thanks!

Can you further explain why you had to do the box partially in the trunk? I don't really get why.

You shouldn't be having the battery light come on because you haven't done the ELD bypass.

Ok so I started taking measurements from the battery to the main fuse. I was at 14v at the wire input but measuring on top of the fuse blade I was at 12.27v. See this image to get an idea. So I took the fuse out and one of the bolts had some char and discoloration and part of the fuse blade also. It looks like this fuse has a diode or something inside of it. You can barely see it in this pic in the window right above '300A'. So I turned the fuse around and put it back in and I am getting 14v at the amps. I can't believe that it was something this simple (I hope. Keeping my fingers crossed ) this whole time. What is that component that is inside the fuse? Why is it there? Thanks guys.

I may have been in error about the ohm readings. I may have had the meter on the wrong setting (at least the ones taken at the battery). However, why does connecting my amps make the measured voltage at the distro block drop? I just took another measurement and it was down to 12.27v but the battery is still at 14.17v. Opinions please?

Ok I have just been to the twilight zone. I took several measurements all with the stereo NOT playing (ie volume 0 and no source playing). Car running voltage at the battery was 14.1/14.2v as expected. Voltage at the ground and positive inputs on the 1000/1 amp is 12.05v WTF. Ok so I disconnect the + from the distro block and measure voltage directly from the wire to ground and I get 14.1v. So I am thinking maybe something is wrong with the distro block. So to test that I take measurements on the outputs of the distro block with both amps disconnected and I get 14.1v????? So now it seems it is down to the amps somehow. I now hook up only the 300/4 amp and measure voltage at the disto block and I get 13.8v??? Then I hook up only the 1000/1 and I get 13.7v at the distro block. With both of the amps hooked up I get 13.4v at the distro block. Here is where it really gets weird. I decide to measure ohms (continuity) for my ground. With no amps connected the negative battery post to my chassis ground is 0.0 ohms. However with one amp connected the same measurement is like 11.9 ohms (it is fluctuating some but it is around this much). With both amps connected the ohm readings were fluctuating between 16 and 18 ohms???? My memory is starting to get foggy now but I measured continuity between the distro block ground input and car chassis with the amps connected and it was 0 like you would expect. I did the same measurement from the positive to chassis and it was 0 ohms. WTF???? So then I measure continuity between the positive and negative inputs on the distro block and it is an open circuit like you would expect. I don't know what the hell is going on with that. The bottom line seems to be that the amps are somehow introducing resistance into my chassis. Everything seems normal until I have the amps hooked to the distro block. Here are some other measurements I took before all of the above happened just to give the rest of the info. Again stereo was not playing. Car off- voltage at battery posts 12.36v, voltage at 1000/1 12.3v Car running at idle- voltage at battery posts 14.11v, voltage at 1000/1 12.05v WTF????? Car running at idle A/C on max, rear defrost on- voltage at battery posts 13.89v voltage at 1000/1 11.57v WTF (voltage at 1000/1 was fluctuating some) Somebody please explain what the hell is going on here? To clarify the really low voltages above (11.57 and 12.05) were taken before I relocated my ground point and added a separate distro block for the grounds. Originally the positive wire and the ground wire were going into a single distro block but because of the weirdness I was experiencing I decided to put the grounds on their own distro block, but as you can see I still have weird stuff happening even though the voltages looked a little better.

Oh I got a clamp meter also if there are some particular tests you want me to run.