bird333

I got total resistance is 12 ohm so current is 1A. A * R=V so 8 ohm resistor has a 8v drop and the 4 ohm has a 4v drop. W=A*V so 8 ohm resistor has 8w of power and 4 ohm resistor has 4w of power. Does this sound right?

You indicated that a battery isolator wasn't a good idea. Why is that?

Termlab!!!

Great video. Can someone explain how the frequency affects the power correction number?

Audio noob here. How does he know what 'useable bandwidth' is? I thought he was kinda finding that out by looking at the ohms. Still confused.

We want to see a video of it playing after it's tuned.

Nice!!!

Can't wait to see the finished product. Great work so far!

Oh ok thanks!

Can you further explain why you had to do the box partially in the trunk? I don't really get why.

You shouldn't be having the battery light come on because you haven't done the ELD bypass.

Ok so I started taking measurements from the battery to the main fuse. I was at 14v at the wire input but measuring on top of the fuse blade I was at 12.27v. See this image to get an idea. So I took the fuse out and one of the bolts had some char and discoloration and part of the fuse blade also. It looks like this fuse has a diode or something inside of it. You can barely see it in this pic in the window right above '300A'. So I turned the fuse around and put it back in and I am getting 14v at the amps. I can't believe that it was something this simple (I hope. Keeping my fingers crossed ) this whole time. What is that component that is inside the fuse? Why is it there? Thanks guys.

I may have been in error about the ohm readings. I may have had the meter on the wrong setting (at least the ones taken at the battery). However, why does connecting my amps make the measured voltage at the distro block drop? I just took another measurement and it was down to 12.27v but the battery is still at 14.17v. Opinions please?

Ok I have just been to the twilight zone. I took several measurements all with the stereo NOT playing (ie volume 0 and no source playing). Car running voltage at the battery was 14.1/14.2v as expected. Voltage at the ground and positive inputs on the 1000/1 amp is 12.05v WTF. Ok so I disconnect the + from the distro block and measure voltage directly from the wire to ground and I get 14.1v. So I am thinking maybe something is wrong with the distro block. So to test that I take measurements on the outputs of the distro block with both amps disconnected and I get 14.1v????? So now it seems it is down to the amps somehow. I now hook up only the 300/4 amp and measure voltage at the disto block and I get 13.8v??? Then I hook up only the 1000/1 and I get 13.7v at the distro block. With both of the amps hooked up I get 13.4v at the distro block. Here is where it really gets weird. I decide to measure ohms (continuity) for my ground. With no amps connected the negative battery post to my chassis ground is 0.0 ohms. However with one amp connected the same measurement is like 11.9 ohms (it is fluctuating some but it is around this much). With both amps connected the ohm readings were fluctuating between 16 and 18 ohms???? My memory is starting to get foggy now but I measured continuity between the distro block ground input and car chassis with the amps connected and it was 0 like you would expect. I did the same measurement from the positive to chassis and it was 0 ohms. WTF???? So then I measure continuity between the positive and negative inputs on the distro block and it is an open circuit like you would expect. I don't know what the hell is going on with that. The bottom line seems to be that the amps are somehow introducing resistance into my chassis. Everything seems normal until I have the amps hooked to the distro block. Here are some other measurements I took before all of the above happened just to give the rest of the info. Again stereo was not playing. Car off- voltage at battery posts 12.36v, voltage at 1000/1 12.3v Car running at idle- voltage at battery posts 14.11v, voltage at 1000/1 12.05v WTF????? Car running at idle A/C on max, rear defrost on- voltage at battery posts 13.89v voltage at 1000/1 11.57v WTF (voltage at 1000/1 was fluctuating some) Somebody please explain what the hell is going on here? To clarify the really low voltages above (11.57 and 12.05) were taken before I relocated my ground point and added a separate distro block for the grounds. Originally the positive wire and the ground wire were going into a single distro block but because of the weirdness I was experiencing I decided to put the grounds on their own distro block, but as you can see I still have weird stuff happening even though the voltages looked a little better.

Oh I got a clamp meter also if there are some particular tests you want me to run.

750 idle. I have installed a mod that will force the alt to charge (ELD bypass) at whatever rpm. I'll try to take some more measurements. From what I remember, from the cig lighter voltmeter I have without the radio on I will be at like 14.2v. Measurements back at the amps will be at like 13.5v

Not a bit of belt slip. No noise at all.

I've had a new belt put on. I'll specifically open the hood and run my system to listen.

9.8v at idle. No belt squeal that I can tell. I have ground to the main floor pan of course to bare metal. I am using a ANL main fuse and mini ANL fuses in the distro block. Someone mentioned clipping in the other thread. This is a possibility because most of my music mp3's were created before I knew anything about clipping so they were created kinda loud. However, I got a feeling even if I recreate these files with lower volume I will still have a problem when I turn up the volume too loud.

MODS: Please delete/merge my original thread in the 'general audio' section. Car: '96 Honda Accord Amps : JL 1000/1 and JL 300/4 Wiring: Big 3 done. Kicker Hyperflex 1/0 running to distro 4 gauge Kicker to amps Battery : Sears Die Hard Platinum (supposed to be the same as Odyssey and Stinger) Alt: DC Power 180amp Mod done to keep alt in 'high output' mode (ELD workaround) Ok, voltage to my amps is getting too low. My amps will stop playing at higher volumes. What's kinda weird is the 300/4 will shut off before the 1000/1. The voltage will drop down to the upper 9's on bass hits. My lights of course dim. I have upgraded everything I have been advised to (see list above). I am in the 'better alt' vs. more battery /caps camp. I prefer to solve the power problem at the source if possible. The alt is the one area I just can't be sure about. I don't know if it is putting out what it is supposed to. It has been suggested on another forum that I have 'belt slip' but I just don't think that is it. Some have suggested I have a ground problem but I have switched grounds around and taken measurements and I have continuity between the ground and battery. I am considering running my ground wire all the way to the battery. I am almost to the point of wanting to give up here. My system is not that powerful but I seem to have these low voltage problems. I have read about more powerful setups that are on stock electrical that don't seem to have these issues. I would like to solve this once and for all if I can. Help

Ok you know how the line of the signal can have the jagged edges and not be smooth, that is distortion right and this device detects that. I am trying to ask is it possible to have a smooth line but have the top be cut off i.e. clipped?

So it's not possible to have a clean signal be clipped?

I understand clipping is a form of distortion. In designing this product, I would assume that clipping would be the first thing that would be addressed but like I said I didn't see this said directly. I wish I could remember the video that had me questioning this.

Definitely not trolling. There was a video I watched that made me think about this. So far I haven't seen this addressed directly. Mods perhaps this should be moved to the DD-1 forum.

It measures distortion along the wave correct? But does it also measure clipping?