01zx3
I didn't want to post, but; what about those people? I don't compete, did you mean the OP is competing? My bad, I missed the OP saying that when I read through all the posts.. Im still wondering what practical information for the OP your message had. If you have 2x batteries, that will help maintain the voltage under load car off, but, still, as soon as you exceed the capacity of your alternator completely it will drop to the uncharged battery's voltage.
Does your vehicle already have a dc:dc converter for the headlights? Some vehicles have one from factory. By the sounds you still have the same problem, but, your alternator is able to supply enough to cover the majority of extra load from your stereo before it reverts to battery voltage - hence the voltage drop. Looking at your sig, you have one alpine type r sub powered by a 2400wrms amp... Do you compete with that do you?
Upgrading to a bigger alternator before the 2nd battery would have more of an effect on dimming by maintaining the higher voltage when the car is running. If the car lights dim when the engine is off then the alternator is not the cause. A 2nd battery would help more then.
I wouldn't consider it as safe to let 300A flow through a cable that only needs to supply 150A. The whole point to matching the fuse size to the equipment.
OP
I have a 4x100wrms and a 1x550wrms Alpine combo with a D34M bluetop and police-spec 120A alternator, all 0 gauge. I myself use 80A and 120A resetable circuit breakers at the amps and a 200A fuse at the battery. My vehicle consumes a good portion of the alternators output to run which doesn't leave the stereo as much as it needs, hence why my lights dim.