fr34kout

So were you just playing it off music or did you do a sweep to find your peak?

Peaking at 30 hz is damn low as is. Most people don't even tune that low.

You want some major lows? Move the box with your 6 12's till it's about an inch or two from your tailgate. Your car will peak realllll low.

Or I can just flip my box around and take another pic for you XD

Oh I thought you just meant 18's in general lmao. Why you wanna do subs back in particular? I usually hear to always stick with sub up port back or sub up port up in SUV's.

You've probably seen my pics either here or Trailvoy but I'll post up a couple. Also somebody on Trailvoy is running 2 SMD 18's either May03LT or UnderLok I forget who. My current box is about 6.3 cubes tuned to 33 hz, about to be building a new box close to 8 cubes tuned to 30 hz so we'll see how that turns out. 147.6 (or 147.8 ) was my highest with the D2 SMD @ 39hz, direct swap with my friends D1 2nd gen BTL got 150.3 @ 39 hz. Edit: Had to fix the stupid smiley that came up lol. Oh and link to my build if you're interested http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/81025-08-envoy-denali-18-aa-smd-build-log-150-db-39-hz/

lol you mad bro?

D3100 is bigger than 9x7x6, but maybe a D3400 would fit if you have a little wiggle room.

Contradicting much? Get a Diehard Platnium if you want to save money, if not do it right the first time and get an XS Power battery.

Series is the same just opposite, when you wire anything in series it doubles the ohm load. So you can wire a D4 sub in series to get 8 ohms, or you can wire it in parallel to get 2 ohms.

Ok each coil on the sub is 4 ohms. D4 means Dual 4, so there are 2 voice coils on the sub, each one is 4 ohms. When you wire the two voice coils together in parallel you get a 2 ohm load for that 1 sub woofer. If it was a SVC (Single Voice Coil) 4 ohm sub, it is just straight 4 ohms.

Adding on to what he said, when you wire in parallel you drop the ohm load in half. When you wire in series you double the ohm load. When you're dealing with multiple subs do it in steps. So say you want to wire 4 D4 subs together to 1 monoblock. Each D4 sub can be wired to 2 ohms on it's ohm when you run them in parallel. Then you can wire 2 of these 2 ohm subs together in parallel again to get 1 ohm per pair of subs, Then you can wire the 2 pairs of subs together in series to get back up to 2 ohms, or in parallel to drop down to half ohm.

Where did he say he was from hawaii? A fast google search shows Kelowan / Okanagan (in his sig) as part of Canada? I'm from Hawaii and when I ordered my alt it was shipped out on a thursday and got it the following tuesday but never got a tracking number. Call Matt, he always answered his phone when I called.

You talking about XS Power D3100's, or Kinetik HC3800's? Either way I would go with ID XS comps in all doors, they are by far the loudest speakers I've heard in person.

2400 @ 3.3 ohms is about 89 volts, into 500k should be 6 hundred thousandths of an amp. It'll be fine lol

Can start small wednesday if you want. My 100.4 is bridged so ~300 watts, then can step up to my 4500 which is only about ~2400 clamped before you try the big boy. Up to you. Edit: That and I kind of want to re-oscope both amps lol

Well the whole point of seeing the wave clipping is to prevent it, if it's no accurate then what's the point of using it? Try it side by side with a known Oscope and see if one shows clipping before the other. If they both indicate clipping at the same time, you're golden.

Just make sure your car is running

There was a couple of threads about this maybe 2 weeks ago? 1 was asking about the product, 1 was a follow up video. You could clearly see when the wave started clipping, although I'm not sure if they ever tried it vs a true Oscope. Maybe ask Art (I think he just picked up a Fluke Oscope recently) or someone if you could test this vs a known good oscope.

Yea just messing with you haha

Wall at the A-pillar, say wut? But yea what he said, you could have 10 12's and still not do a hair trick if your box isn't designed properly, don't have enough power, etc. Some people can do it with single subs, it all depends.

As long as you have the proper port area, the size of the aero ports shouldn't make a difference.

Here's a clamp test from our local Class C champ, 156.3 with 2 AQ 12's and a LOT of knowledge. "Just thought i'd share my results on reactive power testing, on the SD8K. Testing was done using 2 12" SS splx subs with a nominal impedance of .5 ohms, and a reactive impedance of 1.433 ohms after box rise. Input voltage to the amp was 11.9vdc. Test frequency was 54hz. 3 fluke true rms meters were used for the test. Here is what i got= 93.2v 65a So thats 6,058 watts @ 1.43 ohms, with an input voltage of 11.9vdc. very impressive to say the least, and all from an amp only 17.5" long. Efficiency was right around 84 percent, which is very good. Any questions regarding the test are welcomed. Aloha, don."

Edit: Gotta love lag double posts

Not to be a dick, but can you read? He said I'll be you $100 that your subs will never see 450. He didn't say anything about the price of your subs, he is betting they won't see 450 watts from your 450 watt amp.