chud

It is to be commended...

awesome review, man. Keep up the good work.

GET THE BABIES!!!

No doubt. Noobs don't know what they're missin'.

- The Lanzar Optidrive 15" is 3,000 watts rms: http://www.allaudioexpo.com/nav/details.asp?itemid=3235&catid=176&tran=fgle - Normal people aren't allowed to own the W8v1. rms rating isn't as relevant as you think...

Lanzar OptiDrive 15"

JL Audio 15W8v1

Yo dawg. We heard you like boxes so we put a box inside yo box and tuned it to box...

Which 18"s are you considering?

<3

meh. meh I say.

meh Unless you're driving a Jaguar with some B&W equipment, it'd be best to upgrade the speakers before worrying about amping them.

Why would amping crappy stock speakers be beneficial in any way. You're better than that twisted...

They're cheap, decent looking and they do rated. Can't beat it. Oh, and the dsc2000.1 is less than $300.

That's what I thought. The pics definitely look like foam...

Yup, it'll do rated. The Discus series amps are some of the best budget friendly stuff on the market right now. The 1000.1 is class a/b, but the more powerful models are class d. The DSC4125 is a downright beastly 4 channel (125 x4 @ 4/250 x4 @ 2/500 x2 @ 4 bridged). dsc1000.1 for $162 shipped here: http://www.vminnovations.com/product_3262/MB_QUART_DSC1000_1_Mono_2000W_Amplifier.html dsc4125 for $158 shipped here: http://www.vminnovations.com/product_1231/MB_QUART_DSC4125_1000W_4_Channel_Amplifier.html

Good to know. I just looked at a pic on google.

I'd rather have the MB Quart DSC1000.1. It's just as affordable, it's clean class a/b power and it'll give him the option to upgrade to a pair of the subs in the future...if he wants to.

It looks to be foam, but I wouldn't swear to it.

I'd replace the speakers, no doubt about it. Whatever I didn't replace, I'd either remove or disconnect. I'd also put some serious thought into replacing the head unit. As you said, it's 16 years old and it's stock. Not too impressive imho. Do a nice in-dash dvd/nav unit, a nice pair of 6.5" 2-way components in the front doors, a pair of decent 2-way coaxials in the rear doors, remove the rear deck speakers (if there are any) and buy 2 amps (2 channel & a monoblock). Then you can move on to the sub/subs. That's my opinion. If you don't know about quality brands & such, send me a pm. We might be able to take care of everything you need in a matter of 10 or 15 minutes...

I'm just not one of those more speakers = better sound kinda guys. No disrespect intended. If you like it, that's all that matters...

It's cool that you did something out of the ordinary with otherwise useless equipment, but I really don't understand the benefit of placing a midbass driver in your console. At least you had a good time...

I wouldn't replace all of those speakers if I were you. In fact, I'd completely do away with some of them. I'd look into a set of 2-way components for the front doors and maybe, MAYBE replace the speakers in the rear doors. Other than that, nada. As far as keeping the stock deck, that's not a problem. You'll need a LOC (line out converter). Do a google search for PAC line out converter and you'll find what you need.

they're junk.

That's bad advice for a couple of different reasons. 1. The OP wants to spend $100 and the cheapest bnib MRP-M500 that I can find is $140 2. The OP needs 500 watts @ 4 ohms and the MRP-M500 is only rated for 300