soundman72

simple fix- charge him $10 for every trip to work. 10 to work,, 10 from work- nuff said. He gets a ride to and from work, you get your vehicle. If that doesn't satisfy them, f(ck'em.

I applaude your use of these- hope they work out But on a side note- regarding PYLE audio all together. They...are...crap PYLE audio has nothing that is "pro audio". They may call it that, but then again I may call a kia an exotic sports car....doesn't mean it is.

stefanhinote- You are right, but in that info is the part number for the other version that you can wire down to 1ohm- I assumed the OP was smart enough to figure that out. Also, I can't agree with TeamHT enough. If you don't wanna help the guy that's your choice, but when you're a dick for no reason we can all see who's begging for attention.

http://www.carstereoneeds.com/p21228/pioneer_ts_w2502d4_subwoofers/product_info.html -higher sens -higher power handling -available in dual 2ohm

you might need to do a used product search for this price. The guys are right, you won't get a 'good' system for that. I would focus on a couple things- 1- Head unit- mainly because you will be powering the door/deck speakers with it, so it'll be great if you can get one with some decent eq ability and an adjustable sub out. http://www.crutchfield.com/p_105KDHDR40/JVC-KD-HDR40.html?tp=5684 ($100) (this unit has a 7 band eq, sub out and control, plus HD radio) 2- Door speakers- try and get the best front stage he can afford. rear speakers, like mainly have said, don't "matter" if it's just 'you' sitting up front all the time. So, you might be able to save some money. ( i didn't read what kind of vehicle this is, so rear speakers might not be an issue) ~150ish 3- If he can spare even $50 for door dampening...do it... ~50 4- this is a toss up between amp and sub- which quality is more important? I would suggest trying to find a guy selling a reasonably priced sub+amp combo- as far as buying....this is decent price for decent product- http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/store/products/SSA-Dcon-10S4-%252b-US-Amps-MD%252d21-combo.html (300 after s/h) So...for 600.... you can get a good H/U (which you can find cheaper), a decent sub+amp combo from good brands, decent speakers, and some dampening. However, that does not include amp wiring which Walmart and $30 can handle for such a small amp, any adapter kit you might need for you dash $15-20, and the wiring harness $15-20, plus the sub enclosure $50ish for a lump. All in all....close to 700... if he can save 1000...or buy a part at a time...say spend 500 on front stage, h/u, related parts, and maybe an amp. He can later get the sub and enclosure plus wiring- thus making him happier in the long run. Best advice, don't waste money on crap. You will undoubtedly have to replace it. (please excuse my disorganized rambling)

the companies say it's to make the usage more efficient- which is utter bullshit. Less usage and more ppl is same as a few ppl with high usage. THEY WANT YOUR MONEY! END OF STORY. You all better protest your asses off if this gets pushed hard in the US! Can you imagine tethering your laptop and needing to update system software- they charge you overage rates!!!! meaning you might pay out $30+ on top of your monthly bill. KEEP IN MIND- the internet has NO BANDWIDTH LIMIT- the LIMIT they are 'trying' to save, is because the ISPs network can't handle the appropriate amount of users. They aren't up to par- THIS IS ALL THE ISPs FAULT! China and Japan have 100M/Bs down speed, and no bandwidth problems. DON"T LET BIG ISPs TAKE YOUR MONEY FOR NO REASON!

Most people can't hear a difference in volume change unless it gets to/or exceeds a 3db change. Now while this is a big difference to those who have witnessed it...keep in mind... if your vehicle is pulling 135db @ db drag... you (under perfect conditions) would gain 3db by doubling your power. So for however much the amp and wiring costs you, you've moved from 135 to 138db...the question is...is ONLY a 3db gain worth the time and money? VS say...a better box? A better design? A better woofer could make the same difference given efficiency ratings... All about how you want to go about it. Side note: with regards to doubling overall output...for those who don't recall....you must multiply your original power by x10. so 500w...turns into 5000w in order to double the output. (Keep in mind these calculations are based in a perfect world; other things will play into this)

wow...drawing fail

If you make the box taller, to the height of the back glass. Then make it less deep according to your math. You could fit 5 subs plus ports and amp I believe. Forgive my lame ass text drawing, but it's quick and easy. But you'll get the idea. When everything is in place it should line up nice if you are looking for a general clean look. Plus you can pass the amp wires straight through the box for that clean no wire look. ______________ | amp_ | |sub |____| sub| |sub sub sub| |port ____ port| |____/ \____|

What is your head end? Have you replaced your factory speakers?

Do you have the remote for the kicker?

A larger diameter woofer will naturally play lower. The smaller your cone area the higher it's FS will be. That being said- 2 12's done right can play lower than one 18. Now the question is upon selecting the woofs- will you have enough room to build a proper ported enclosure? Or would you rather build a sealed enclosure for SQ?

still have this? PM me plz- I am in need of a computer close to these specs.

Wait...you're still rolling stock speakers? wow bro. You could sell the FI- pickup some decent infinity components for cheap (~200 a set) and put some of that cash back towards say- a 50-75 per channel @4ohm amp. Don't think that you will get bass/low mid for shit though- still need that sub.

well...considering I went to there site to download product lit. but couldn't...no clue. What speakers are you using? Do you need a 3 or 2 way XO?