dohckiller808

Noob. Nah nah.

Ok so rather than arguing about what subs would be better and what size would be better can we actually be helpful and talk about things that havent already been decided also where do you think you can find comps for $50 I'd really like to know thanks hahaha also that's great if your 17 and you can save and get your 18's or whatever but I doubt (although I could be wrong) that your already living on your own. Loud music makes me happy so I'm trying to scrape by and get the best system I can I really don't appreciate everyone hating on my choices. I thought I'd get some kind help on SMD sorry to the op. Just looking at different options. If your sticking with the 15s is go ported.

Yes. So please drop it now. If you want to test it by all means go for it.

We've played with different size subs. Especially when using live instruments when we tune a bass the larger subs played slightly flat from what the direct signal was tuned to.

Yeah same motor but will the 18 generate music as accurate as the 10? I think not.

Understood. But with larger subs motor force comes into play and $$$. Ever heard a 18 with a weak ass motor? Or a snappy 22?

wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong wrong Care to embellish? I've done a lot of multiple 12s that sounds great.

It'll be loud no doubt any way you go. If you want that bass snappy for all types of music, 12s would be the largest I would go. Maybe look at 8 12s sealed?

15s, 4-5 of them, comps and don't want so sacrifice any sq? You just did imo.

If you watch your voltage there's no problem running off a bank. I've ran my 11k .5 load on stock alt and a bank for over a year with no big 3. After your amp draw exceeds your alt your you'll be on bank power. It just took longer for my bank to charge up. Just know your limit and things run charry

supercharged actually was all good on it and replied fast. guess he read it too fast too and didnt see you didnt put on your full load.

Yeah I built 2 boxes. That way I could build it outside. All my builds even for customers have to be able to bring the car back to stock form.

bro if you can figure that one out youll be king. i lost my fire for the fight. "happy wife, happy life"

was on the last page... http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/112752-dc-vs-sequoia-build/page__p__1576705__fromsearch__1#entry1576705

heres the link to my build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/112752-dc-vs-sequoia-build/page__p__1576705__fromsearch__1#entry1576705 ill have my plates in this weekend.

Yeah I built 2 boxes. That way I could build it outside. All my builds even for customers have to be able to bring the car back to stock form.

Look through my posts for my build log. It's recent and very similar to your build.

Without bracing the outer port wall will flap. With having the port that skinny and tall it was noticeable that the air was stronger at the top and bottom. When i dropped a board down the middle it evened out the air flow and I did gain .2. And that was after I used rods for bracing. That setup I was doing sub up port up below the line. I'm now doing a wall.

Drop a brace all the way down the middle of the port to brace and even out the air flow. I just built a box like that and if you leave that port open like that it'll flap like crazy.

i didnt read through everything. i would run the 5 on the 2200 for now then just buy another 2200 later and strap that bad boy.

Yup.

Voltage don't mean much if it doesn't hold the amphrage. What you are dropping to under load what you should be after.

now that you metered youll be chasing numbers!!! get ready to buy bigger and badder for 155!

2 16k strapped is all good? I'm sure amps will only get bigger.

Was that a real answer or was someone just messing around?