863JOE

Have it professionally installed. Unless you're a GOOD installer/MECP certified/ ETC, you should buy an alarm that comes with install included in the price (DEI products). If you screw your car up, it's on you. If an installer screws up your car, it's on them.

I think ALL alarms now-a-days come with starter kill.

Disconnect door trigger or dome supervision, whichever you have tagged.

No. + from alt to battery - from battery to chassis - from battery to engine block

Run an isolator solenoid inline w/ power lead from hood battery to 2nd battery.

Problem solved. I let my brother drive my car LOL. EQ was WAYYYY out of whack when I checked everything out. Threw in some JL C3's after work today. Amp - rockford t400-4 Thanks for the input guys! Careful who you let drive your car

2nd pair of Rockford Power series 6.5 co-ax's to go on me. This time around, the tweets lasted all of a day. On top of that, they weren't even seeing rated power. My question is, any experience with a pair of 6.5 inch coax's that will get LOUD, sound good and handle some power, while still being cost efficient? Is it possible??

I'd stick to a DEI product. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_30215_Python-533-5303P.html This guy here would be cost efficient, relatively installer friendly and be reliable.

Either it's in silent or valet mode.

No problem, mine is already removed That will be my approach since I'll most likely be building in the trunk.

That would be great, thanks. I would've ended up figuring it out myself, but getting insight from others especially from someone who was in a similar situation helps a lot. Thanks again! I will be sure to send pics of everything once it is done; still need to get my electrical on lock as well as complete my sound deadening. I've taken a couple days off of work so I could get all this done.

Thats right.

i had the same problem with my trunk. i dont like firing port towards the cabin, because it seems to me that low end response isnt as good. i tried sub up, port back and it sounded great. idk how small an impreza trunk is, but with my car, i did 32w x 14.5h x 24d with a port that was 13h x 4w and 19 inches long, tuned to 35. left me with about 4 cubes after port displacement. crystal clear and hit lower than a mothafucka Dude, that sounds almost ideal for my car. You wouldn't happen to have the specs & cut sheet would you?

Vehicle: 2007 Subaru Impreza sedan Substage Equipment: 15 inch Rockford T2 ( Dual 4 for what it's worth ) Rockford T1000-1bdcp Here is where I would like to get everyones opinion about my " issue " with my car. My problem is that loading an enclosure will be tricky because my trunk lid opening is low and narrow; which leaves me with no other option then to build in the trunk. Next is I can't decide for the life of me how big I want it and where I want the port to fire. I'm leaning towards porting through the armrest in my backseat but would consider porting through the rear deck. I would like to tune it around 30hz or so. How do you guys think I should build it, where should I fire the port, etc.

Agreed^^^^. It really all depends on the vehicle and the specific parts it may need to integrate into your car like immobilizer bypass modules and such. Also, it will depend on whether your car has a chipped key.

I would ensure that you tagged the correct wire for the lights. I believe on that car it's a negative pulse wire. It's red and should be at the headlight switch itself.