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shepherd92683

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Everything posted by shepherd92683

  1. I prefer the Boston’s too. I had been running some Skar pa’s on a Boston 4100 and they were crazy loud, only so much sq of course. I will take your advice and run them both stereo on each channel. Thanks.
  2. Is there a way to wire them mono to pull the 600 watts from the amp and not stereo at 400? That’s 50% more power and what I’m trying to achieve.
  3. To be more specific, what I have is a Boston gt2125. Wanting to run a pair of Skar components up front and a pair of Skar coaxials in the rear. All 4 ohms of course. Specs for amp on page 3 of the link. Looking to maximize power output to somewhat keep up with either 2 12’s or a 15 on a 4k. https://www.vintageshifi.com/repertoire-pdf/pdf/telecharge.php?pdf=Boston-Acoustics-GT-275-Owners-Manual.pdf
  4. I’d like to keep the 2 ohm amp I have and not have to buy another 4 channel but I can’t find out if this is possible somehow. I’m seeing so far it’s not.
  5. I am keeping my factory hu and am going to be installing 2 amps (4 channel and mono). I know there is an anc that will need to be unplugged but I need to know what I need to correct the balanced inputs issue. I was recommended a DD SC 6.1. Is that all I need or is there something else. Someone in a Accord forum said there’s an adapter that connects to the factory harness and then to get whatever Audio Control/dsp of my choice. Seems like the DD unit is cheaper and one less step. Does anyone know and can give some kind of explanation as to how it all works.
  6. I have a Boston gt4100 I’ll probably use for midrange. I heard the alternator is pcm controlled so the headlights have to be on for it to run constantly. Also I’ve always just used dynamat, is there anything that’s a better value nowadays?
  7. Been out the game for a long time and need some guidance on newer cars and what they need to install aftermarket gear. I am going to keep the factory h/u but want to upgrade alternator, stock speakers, and add a single woofer on my SQ4500 plus I’ll need to add a 4 channel. I’ve had not much luck on what I’ll need for integrating with my factory h/u. Any help would be great. If I didn’t give enough information just ask.
  8. I’ve had my Trailblazer for 8 years now so it’s time to get something new. I’ve been out of the audio game for a while so I need some help. Looking to buy a 2015-2017 model year in a couple months. I’d like to throw some beat in there but looking for some background of install info. Any known issues I should be aware of beforehand? I’d like to put my AQ4500 in it and will have to get a new woofer or 2. Not much for headunit besides factory integration with an Lc7i(or better in the similar price range) unless it doesn’t require a ton of extra work.
  9. Ah is less than the 3800 for 2 34's, and of course the 2 31's is the most. I used the hc2400 and had great luck with it so I'm leaning towards that. I'm just not sure if I'll get better output from using the other ones and if it outweighs the cost difference.
  10. I've seen a few things about these batteries. They appear to be made by east penn like deka etc. They are priced rather well compared to others but I don't really see people using them. Maybe that's my sign...lol. The g31 is only $175 and the g34 is $130. Bottom line is, I just bought a new d3400 because my old one died after 5 years. My rear kinetik is also dead after 6 years. My options I'm thinking at this point are getting 2 g34 duracell's, one or maybe 2 g31 duracell's, or a kinetik 3800. Any thoughts?
  11. All of the fuses are good after checking them. The last thing I did was checked my 2 battery's first thing in the morning. The rear was reading 12.2 and the front was reading 12.3 on the side post, and 9 on the top post where the 2 1/0 runs are. I took them off and brushed any dirt and corrosion off and put them back on. They read back to 12.3 and my rear battery and SQ amp were at 14.4 on startup. Not sure if that's solved it but I'll keep checking the next week.
  12. No ghetto crimping gents, all soldered. I suppose there's no way that the rear battery is bad (which I have not tested) or there's an issue with the amp?
  13. I have 2 runs that come from up front. One goes directly to that battery, the other goes to a t distribution block (battery and Boston amp). So yes but indirectly. Also today on another test at startup: Boston amp:14.6 SQ:13.9 Kinetik battery:13.9 I haven't checked at full tilt due to not having an open space to do so and don't want to piss off/advertise to the neighborhood.
  14. For sure my power wires are solid but maybe I'll try to move my ground. It's been in the same place for over a year though and there is no rust, corrosion etc.
  15. My battery under the hood charges about 14.4 and the battery in the back sits at 12. The Boston amp reads 14.2 and the SQ reads 12. What would cause this?
  16. Thanks. But before I go buy a new set of rca's, I guess I could check them with a volt meter. And the same with my h/u.
  17. I will start by saying I haven't changed anything with my system since I reinstalled the amp over a year ago when I came back from being repaired. It worked great for the last 11ish months... Now what happens is randomly it will go into protection. Low volume, or high. I disconnected the subs, still did it. I shut off the sub output on the head unit, same thing. The last thing I've tried is disconnecting the rca's. It hasn't done it yet, but I just tried today. If it is the rca's that are bad, how will I know if it's the cables, the amp, or the head unit?
  18. I believe it was pushing them at the upper power curve consistently for years. I also thought maybe just getting the midrange driver would be best since I have the tweet and xover for it already.
  19. I have a current front stage of a pair of Boston Pro 60SE 6.5's. 2 of the mods have blown and as we all know they are irreplaceable. I am thinking of running a Neo Pro on each side up front to replace the blown Boston's (Boston 4100 runs the mids and hi's). Here's the questions, would it be ok or even sound good to mix comp's and PA together? Also if I did it, should I use my Boston xover on the Sundowns or runs them straight off the amp?
  20. That's not a big issue for me. I wouldn't mind using the crossovers still since they are 24db/octave. Just need something with good power handling.
  21. They are a non repairable woofer. I talked to Boston years ago when it happened a different time and there was a place that bought all of their remaining stock. I could get new woofers for $85 but they are out of business, or at least I can't find a way to get ahold of them. They were called Lemars Audio. But to answer the question, just the wonders are bad, both tweets are ok. The were mounted separately not coaxial on separate channels.
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