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About shepherd92683

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  1. I have a Boston gt4100 I’ll probably use for midrange. I heard the alternator is pcm controlled so the headlights have to be on for it to run constantly. Also I’ve always just used dynamat, is there anything that’s a better value nowadays?
  2. Been out the game for a long time and need some guidance on newer cars and what they need to install aftermarket gear. I am going to keep the factory h/u but want to upgrade alternator, stock speakers, and add a single woofer on my SQ4500 plus I’ll need to add a 4 channel. I’ve had not much luck on what I’ll need for integrating with my factory h/u. Any help would be great. If I didn’t give enough information just ask.
  3. I’ve had my Trailblazer for 8 years now so it’s time to get something new. I’ve been out of the audio game for a while so I need some help. Looking to buy a 2015-2017 model year in a couple months. I’d like to throw some beat in there but looking for some background of install info. Any known issues I should be aware of beforehand? I’d like to put my AQ4500 in it and will have to get a new woofer or 2. Not much for headunit besides factory integration with an Lc7i(or better in the similar price range) unless it doesn’t require a ton of extra work.
  4. Ah is less than the 3800 for 2 34's, and of course the 2 31's is the most. I used the hc2400 and had great luck with it so I'm leaning towards that. I'm just not sure if I'll get better output from using the other ones and if it outweighs the cost difference.
  5. I've seen a few things about these batteries. They appear to be made by east penn like deka etc. They are priced rather well compared to others but I don't really see people using them. Maybe that's my The g31 is only $175 and the g34 is $130. Bottom line is, I just bought a new d3400 because my old one died after 5 years. My rear kinetik is also dead after 6 years. My options I'm thinking at this point are getting 2 g34 duracell's, one or maybe 2 g31 duracell's, or a kinetik 3800. Any thoughts?
  6. All of the fuses are good after checking them. The last thing I did was checked my 2 battery's first thing in the morning. The rear was reading 12.2 and the front was reading 12.3 on the side post, and 9 on the top post where the 2 1/0 runs are. I took them off and brushed any dirt and corrosion off and put them back on. They read back to 12.3 and my rear battery and SQ amp were at 14.4 on startup. Not sure if that's solved it but I'll keep checking the next week.
  7. No ghetto crimping gents, all soldered. I suppose there's no way that the rear battery is bad (which I have not tested) or there's an issue with the amp?
  8. I have 2 runs that come from up front. One goes directly to that battery, the other goes to a t distribution block (battery and Boston amp). So yes but indirectly. Also today on another test at startup: Boston amp:14.6 SQ:13.9 Kinetik battery:13.9 I haven't checked at full tilt due to not having an open space to do so and don't want to piss off/advertise to the neighborhood.
  9. For sure my power wires are solid but maybe I'll try to move my ground. It's been in the same place for over a year though and there is no rust, corrosion etc.
  10. My battery under the hood charges about 14.4 and the battery in the back sits at 12. The Boston amp reads 14.2 and the SQ reads 12. What would cause this?
  11. Thanks. But before I go buy a new set of rca's, I guess I could check them with a volt meter. And the same with my h/u.
  12. I will start by saying I haven't changed anything with my system since I reinstalled the amp over a year ago when I came back from being repaired. It worked great for the last 11ish months... Now what happens is randomly it will go into protection. Low volume, or high. I disconnected the subs, still did it. I shut off the sub output on the head unit, same thing. The last thing I've tried is disconnecting the rca's. It hasn't done it yet, but I just tried today. If it is the rca's that are bad, how will I know if it's the cables, the amp, or the head unit?
  13. I believe it was pushing them at the upper power curve consistently for years. I also thought maybe just getting the midrange driver would be best since I have the tweet and xover for it already.
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