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Cardboardcat15

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Everything posted by Cardboardcat15

  1. Aahah, nice post rofl =p What do you guys think of the XS power VCM? I was looking at the installation video on the mechman site, it looks really easy to use. Anyone have experience with these?
  2. Oh yeah, the Big 3 is already done in the car I have now, I'll most likely re do it though, run a bigger fuse on the alt line and more than likely run the wires a bit better. And regal, thats probably why people said just to add a second batt. I want to stay above 14v almost all the time while bumping. Stop signs and Red lights are my worst enemy. >:0
  3. Yeah I wouldn't add a second batt to my current alt...its only a 60 amp lol.
  4. Yeah a VCM was in mind also, I forgot to add that in. I don't want to fry anything that gets my car started LOL
  5. Im starting to plan out everything for my next system (Last one for my current car) so I can get a rough idea of just how much $$$ I need to save. It's all still pretty far out of reach, but I'm a planner. My current plan is to run 1200 watts RMS for the subwoofer amp (SAX 1200D), and probably an additional 4 channel amplifier for my mids and highs. Nothing crazy, but enough to power a decent set of comps. So my question is, could I get by going with a 150 amp Mechman alt off of two batteries? (most likely another Optima red top) I want to see no less than 14.0 while driving, and a decent idle voltage. I figure going with the other model for my car (220 amps) from mechman would be better, but if I can go with the 150 amp alt it'd be easier. Any thoughts? Thanks for any and all help.
  6. For once, I actually laughed out loud at something when I typed lol. lol
  7. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/38791-torres-box-tuning-calculator-updated-310/ EDIT damn beat me to it kranny
  8. I could be wrong, but i'm pretty sure you'd have to PM rusty, or just call DC.
  9. Subwoofer is a DVC 4 ohm, wire the coils in parallel for a 2 ohm load. http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_configurations.asp?Q=1&I=42#results An example of a compatible amplifier. http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_9852_Rockford+Fosgate+Punch+P300-1.html Name/brand of woofer? EDIT: and to answer your question, yes it is safe, as long as the amplifier is 2 ohm stable.
  10. Ah, well if you already have the 3 12's box, then I guess your kind of stuck. My suggestion (if your willing to do some looking) is try to get your hands on 3 of the RE SR 12's, not the SRX. If you can find 3 of those then you'll be set. Anyone else got a reccomendation for a good 12 off of 300 RMS?
  11. MB Quart has a shallow mount line, might wanna check those out since your lookin.
  12. That's probably the best idea. Definitely go with that if you have the space, you have the power with that amp.
  13. Well, most any kind of subwoofer can give you bass that'll shake your car, you just have to have a good box and a decent pair of woofers to do it for you. Do you have any space limitations? Like is it going in a truck or something? Because otherwise I would recommend looking into a larger woofer.
  14. Well, if you want to go with something better, and still wanted to stick with 3 12's, 3 of the RE Srx 12's would be perfect for your situation. They're rated at 300 rms, I own a pair of the 15's they have great sq and get pretty loud too.
  15. I think you should be fine. It'll probably sound really great too.
  16. Well, from my experience with the woofer, I'd say they can safely handle about 300 watts RMS of clean power, so you should be fine. Just keep an eye (and nose lol) on em'. Are you going sealed or ported?
  17. I owned this subwoofer for about a half a year before I upgraded and I would say yes you could, just be careful with listening loud for too long, you might get the coils stinky. I blew the subwoofer a couple months ago due to a cracked dustcap, and it took me 15 minutes of beating on 500 watts RMS for to actually smoke. They're great woofers for the price.
  18. Car: 1992 Toyota Corolla DX Engine: 1.6L 4AFE Hoping there is a model out there for me! (and hoping it's not too pricey )
  19. Ah, O.k., thanks for clearing everything up, I thought it was weird that my voltage would go up the more things I turned on. Thanks everyone.
  20. Ah, this might be true, I didn't know there was an RPM rise when shifting gears. I don't know much about cars aside from the stereo aspect =p
  21. Haha not a Honda, but pretty damn close. It's a 1992 Toyota Corolla DX 1.6L 4AFE I need a new alt sometime soon, It's one of the things on my checklist =p
  22. Hi all, I have a question about my voltage maybe some of you can help me with. O.k., so this really isn't much of a problem more than it is a "wtf is going" question. So anyways, I did the Big 3 about a month ago. Awesome, Got the cables I needed, I'm one step closer to higher voltage. I am getting pretty thrown off about my voltage fluxuation, however. I have a stock 60 Amp alt and a Optima Red Top before and after big three. No changes. Before the big three I had my volt meter hooked up AT MY AMP, got about a 14.2 readout starting my car in the morning which is normal, Alt isn't running hot so I get a higher voltage. Once I drive down the street, voltage drops to about 13.7 and stays around 13.7-13.8, and when bumping while driving fell close to about 12.2. When I had my Air Conditioner on my voltage would spike UP .2 volts, and when I had my blinker on it would do the same, only in unison with the blinker. Voltage would fall below 12v if I were bumping while in idle in drive. lowest was probably 11.0 volts flat. (at a stop sign or something) Now after the big 3, Volt meter still at my amp, on a cool morning i'll start my car and get about a 14.7-14.8 readout out in PARK. When I shift into reverse, my voltage will spike up to 15.2. wtf? I assume it's due to less current draw from the larger tail light bulbs not being used and only having my single reverse bulbs drawing current? I am not really sure about that but I can understand it. While I am driving, my voltage will drop to 14.6 while car is still cool, and after driving for a few minutes it'll fall to about 14.0-14.1. And again, when I have my blinker and/or AC on, my voltage goes up. Lowest i've seen my voltage fall while idling in drive is about 11.5. In a nutshell, Why does my voltage go up with my AC/blinkers on, and why do I get 15+ volts in reverse and not in drive? =( Thanks for any help!
  23. Hehe yeah it'd be cool to cut the rear deck out but that's not an option in this car. Anyways, I'm not gonna do ported. I think sealed will suit my needs better anyways because I do listen to a lot of rock and other music besides dubstep/rap, so even thought they are 15's, sealed should sound better on my music and get loud as well.
  24. Yeah I kinda left the whole ported idea for the 15's now, not enough space as you said. It makes me kinda wish I had a larger car =/. Have you owned/worked on a 92 corolla before? I'm just kind of curious, I don't see many people working on them so it'd be nice to meet someone who has experience with them.
  25. Is dealercostcaraudio a trusted website? cause I normally just buy all my stuff off of Ebay, but i'm one to save a couple bucks and dealercost is cheaper than Ebay. Any thoughts?
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