BboyTaktix

BUMP for this thread....I have not found any dealers in Canada and shipping from WCCaraudio to Qc, Canada is $63.59?!?! Seems high, even with the $10.00 discount it comes to just over $200.00 and that's if I don't get charged taxes when it hits the border. Steve, do you have any info on Canadian dealers to get this for less? thanks!

So...like 3 days ago I get the same distortion (after checking and taping all RCA's) so jus for shits I crank my system, since I haven't done it for a while...and to my amazement, the distortion just...disappeared. And I haven't had any peoblems since...even cranking it all the way to work and back these last few days. Weird as hell

Update: I took out the head unit today (freaking cold weather, had to run my car with high heat the whole time) and checked all the connections...they all seemed legit. I taped the RCA connections to make sure as well. I also switched the rear and front RCA's to see if perhaps it was the RCA cables or head unit, but still, the front components were fucking up. Now I'm sad...this is the worst time for this to happen. I assume it is something in the doors or the wiring, but why the hell would it work so damn long and then crap out? Is it the speakers...or the amp's front channel? So annoyed... sometimes the left tweeter will get distorted, sometimes it will be the right one. it just doesnt make much sense, and usually happens after a little while, or after I crank it for a short period of time.

I doubt the amp is getting that hot...it's winter here and so it is generally very cold, so overheating should be the last issue. Also, it's only happening to the right side, front speaker tweeter...I'm going to have to open up the door panel and check the connection, but when I installed it, I connected it real good and taped around the connections with electrical tape to make sure it would stay. I'll also check my RCA's. I'm REALLY hoping it's just a connection issue or something simple like that. When I get back from FL, I'll investigate further.

Bump for some more ideas? In Florida for the week so wont be able to check anything until I get to Canada again.

Really cool of you man. Made my day reading this. Good demo, nice system!!!

well...generally, on other forums (car or audio) I get quite a few responses within a few hours, or I will respond to similar questions within a few hours... and thanks, I will start by checking the RCA's. It's winter here, lots of snow, cold as hell outside, and no indoor space to work on my car. Kinda sucks. Bad timing for this I guess...

seriously...nobody? bump for some help. This evening I drove back from my dads place, kept the volume a little less than half and I didn't get the problem...WTF could this be?

Hey guys, I need your help. About 6 months ago, I installed some JBL power series components in my car, on a 4-channel JBL amp. I set the gain relatively low for those speakers (less than half) I went 6 months with no problems, until recently. The left side will be playing normally, crisp and clear and then starts to crackle all the sudden. If I turn off and back on the head unit, the problem will then stop, but then usually I'll turn the sound up a bit and it will eventually start crackling again after a short time of playback...any idea what is going on?!? Could it be that the tweeters are blown? It has been quite cold here (in Canada) for about a month now, but I don't think that should have a big effect...thanks in advance for your help!!!

I'm down to see how this turns out. I've heard good things about those subs. I say go for it, just make sure you have enough power to feed those bad boys and they'll bump real hard! I'm not too knowledgeable about how to build them into the car though. I believe you should seal front from back, that would be some work to do.

I put a layer of deadener and great stuff expanding foam. Made a huge difference in terms of shaking, and added a decent amount of weight but not too much. I say go for it, just don't get the great stuff on anything cuz it's a bitch to get off fabric and your skin.

^ straight up. Also, I'm a member on a few other forums...I know how to use the search button. Just because some of us have under 100 posts doesn't mean we're stupid. Some guy on my car forum asks stupid questions ten times over regardless of his large post count. And sometimes the search yields bad results, making it near impossible to find what the person is looking for because there are way too many results generated that have nothing to do with your question. I realize what you're trying to do but just be tolerant of the new ppl, and if they re-post questions, link them to the thread that answers their question or tell them to search. That's how you can REALLY save the mods some trouble.

UPDATE! while getting my car jack out of my trunk today I took the time to look at the space I had, and I definitely have enough for two 12" subs...I have two 12's now and there's still quite a bit of space left around the box. And the pre-fab box is really quite big. I'm going to try and contact DC this week and see if i can get pricing on two LVL3's. I am also going to get pricing on two LVL 4's just for the hell of it. If the FI are much cheaper I may go with them. All depends on what each company can do with the price, and shipping to Canada. I may have to wait a bit longer to buy the subs though because I got in a small fender-bender last week and I'll need a new bumper (guy's hitch made a hole in my bumper). I'm going to get a cobalt SS bumper/lip and keep this one for winter. I'll keep you all posted. Thanks and you've all been GREAT help!! I will need you guys again for some box design questions soon!!!

Understandable, and good points. And for those NOT reading the thread, I'm going with two Fi 10's or 12's or two DC 10's or 12's, depending on how much ROOM I have in my trunk. Thanks fritos for your help on this, and others informing me on the best decision. I'll post again when I find out exactly how much space I have to work with and wether 10's or 12's are more appropriate. I have a feeling this new setup will be a huge improvement over my current JBL GTO subs. All I will need after this is your guys help on a good box design

So you're saying I shouldn't face it in the cabin sealed from the trunk? I got mixed reactions from you guys, some of you say no, some yes. One thing that is good about facing it into the cabin sealed off is that I'll have a lot less trunk rattle. But you guys think it will be loudest facing backwards? I don't mind extra work but I'm not down to do a full wall or cut into the existing parts of the car. I know there's threads on what way to face subs etc. I've read them all but there's no set conclusion as to which is better. I have seen both methods hitting real hard. I'm also going for aesthetics.

nice!! is that 10" or 12? hard to tell from pics. Also, I'm assuming it's a lvl 4?

great, thanks for the suggestions guys! I'm going to measure the opening in my rear seats to see how much space I have, and the trunk as well to see exactly what would be the best (10's or 12's). There is not much space in the cabin, so I'm assuming two 10's or 12's sealed from the trunk would probably destroy in my car. 130-140dB would be more than enough for me. Last thing is I need an answer for how to connect the baffle to the metal framing behind the seats (between seats and trunk). I'm assuming some decent sized bolts and pre-drilling holes in the MDF would be the most solid way of doing it. Thanks again guys! When I make my final decision and purchase I'll be back at you guys for some help with the box design.

Never heard of this brand. Rather go with DC or Fi, they have too many good reviews/comments. Again...the choices are two DC lvl3's or two SSD's. And 10" or 12". (Possible upgrade to the next model up of either one depending on what happens with my co-op jobs starting in January, etc.) Also olds, how did you attach the baffle to the framing behind the rear seats, when you sealed off from the trunk? I assume you either drilled through the MDF and the car's metal, and put a few beast bolts, or you just used some meaty metal/wood screws with washers? thanx!!

Wow. Respect man!

FI Q's are too powerful for my needs. Two FI SsD's will give me a solid 1600RMS, my amp gives 1550RMS, seems like a good fit. and I may get the upgraded cooling option so that if I ever upgrade my amp, the subs can take the additional power. DC lvl 3's are the second option, also at 800wRMS. I emailed DC for pricing (no dealers nearby) and waiting on that now. So it's either two FI SSD or two DC lvl3's. Votes? Also, should go 10's or 12's? Advantages of each in a small car?

yeah, I won't be doing any cutting though. I'll measure the space and see if 10's or 12's are more appropriate. i also want to make sure the rear seats can close over the subs to make it discreet. Sounds like I'll have to start stocking up supplies for box building and get around to ordering those subs! Also gotta get around to finishing my sub layout. I'll be waiting before ordering the subs though. Got some cash coming in soon. Then I'll sell my prefab box with my 2 JBL's.

Sorry I meant 0.9-1.5 cu.ft for the 10's. My trunk already has a large pre-fab ported box with 2 12" JBL's as well as 2 huge amps. It's a coupe so I usually drive alone or with 1 passenger and use the back seats for bags or luggage or wtv. The work is no problem sealing off the trunk. I already fat-matted most of my car and still have almost a full roll left. And I'm still young (21) So you think I could hit mid 130 or even 140's with two SSD 10's? That would be more than enough for me. I just need a solid box design though.

Thx olds, i'm assuming I should go ported? The specs say 33hz ported and about 1.8-2.5 cu.ft. Each. Should I aim inside to the cabin sealed from the trunk? Or just traditional box aimed backwards? Thanks!

I think from your opinions it's between 2 DC lvl 3's and 2 FI SSD's. But 10's or 12's? Hmmmm choices choices. Keep it coming guys!

So you say 2 FI SSD 10's? I think I might get those:) and the price is surprisingly good! Anyone else have input on the SSD's? And I'm assuming the 10's won't only be loud but the SQ would be pretty solid?