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BboyTaktix last won the day on January 17

BboyTaktix had the most liked content!

About BboyTaktix

  • Birthday June 17

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    Qc, Canada
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    Car modding, motorcycles, snowmobile, B-boying, snowboarding :D

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  1. Small update - got the grilles I ordered and I really am liking the honeycomb pattern. They are metal. Also ordered magnets and going to use them to attach the grill to the upper beauty panel. Here is a photo of the grilles sitting on the subs plus their thickness (pretty thin) - really excited for how it is going to look. I need to work on my upstairs unit again this weekend - new kitchen is almost done LOL need to put the countertop and new sink and a very small amount of painting left. I will try to take some time on Sunday to finish up at least the first beauty panel. Maybe even the second. I also need to shorten the power and ground wires to the small pioneer amp on the left (as you can see from photo below) I had to make my own baseplate for my new router in order for the giant 60-degree bevel bit to fit hahaha sometimes you just have to 'MacGyver' that shit.
  2. Tuning is the #1 most important thing IMO, confirmed by my experience yesterday for sure even though it’s not a perfect tune. I had my “start” tune (just crossovers set and time alignment nothing else) in position 2 of the DSP and did a direct comparison via the Zapco remote - it’s night and day honestly. the two biggest things were the bass integration and the tweeters. The bass was just way too overpowering and boomy/peaky at certain frequencies. Now it completely flows with the system seamlessly. The tweeter install is less than ideal for anything over 14ish khz, with my corrections, I was able to get them to play well up past 16 and even 17khz - I can tel you I’ve never heard detail like that in my music. honestly it’s so worth it, if I was more strapped for cash in a future build and had to start from scratch, I’d go with slightly lower end speakers (example a piecemeal 3-way setup up front), a good amp, any decent sub and a DSP most definitely to tie everything together. I need more listening time as after 15mins of blasting it my car battery was dead even on the charger.
  3. Alright fellow audio enthusiasts, after 6 hours of tuning (2x 3 hours and a short break for lunch) I can say I am extremely happy with where my system is at - especially given it is the first time tuning a DSP EVER. The umik-1 is a must honestly, it does MAGIC. Along with Audiofrog target curve, I was able to get a pretty linear response and fix MANY major dips and peaks. The biggest fix was the bass - these shallow mount subs can really hit. I had to turn them down to -10 at first, and after a bit of listening I settled on them being at -9 level since I like a little more bass in my music. If I put more time into it, I am sure I could make it even more linear. But, as this is not a competition car, and I was using 1/48 octave RTA and 1/6 smoothing which is above what was suggested in the audiofrog guide. As I have learned from my research and watching many vids from people like PSSounds, there are some dips that just are not fixable no matter how much you play with it. In my case, this was the 500-650hZ range, in which the install and cabin gain probably came into play with my midbass speakers. No worries though, sometimes you just have to accept that and do your best with the rest. Now onto the screenshots - I just ended up taking of each pair of speakers, since after tuning each side of each pair, there were no real major differences besides matching the volume; First off, the woofers pair before tuning; After tuning; next was tweeters BEFORE tuning - some major issues I had to iron out; I am quite proud of how the tweeters turned out honestly, a reeally nice flat response up until around 15-16K and then dropped off due to them not being on axis (again - installation results) - had they been installed on axis in a proper pillar pod, they would most likely be flat up until 18-19khz, but I am very pleased nonetheless; And now for the subs - I knew these were peaky around 40-55 Hz ish just by ear, and I was not far off. Also had to lower the volume to match well with the other speakers; and tuned: The rear fill I was less worried about but just wanted something somewhat linear from them - as such I did not spend as much time on them. They were quite a bit lower in volume than the fronts but that is OK, they are there for the effect. crossover points at 250hz to 5000hz; before tuning: and after tuning: finally, putting everything together, the entire system tuned; besides the dip from 500-700-ish, I am very happy with the linearity for a non-pro installer and first time tuning. There is another small dip at the crossover point of the woofer and tweeter around 2.8K, I may try to spend more time working that one out in the future, but after listening to some music honestly I am amazed at how much detail I now have and how everything sounds together. It gets loud enough and stays clear the entire way. More detail than I have ever heard before. Would love to hear a proper SQ system to compare and discover where my faults lie! This was a fun journey and learning experience, which I am glad to share with you all.
  4. small update: got my amplifier OEM male plug delivered today - will need to take some time to transfer the old plugs to this new one, solder and shrink wrap the connections. Nice thing is the pins on the back are easy to bend so I can make them straight and then trim to connect. I’ll be shrink wrapping the 12V power and ground to ensure they don’t mess with anything if the plug shifts under the seat while driving. tomorrow is TUNING DAY! Hoping I can get it done in a few hours (half day) but as it is my first real tune I’ll be taking my time. Will document and let everyone know how it goes!
  5. Update: I have to add a post about CHECK - DOUBLE CHECK and TRIPLE CHECK all your settings when you think there is an issue somewhere. Despite being very detail-oriented, with so many factors in a build, including excitement to get it working, it's easy to forger small things. I hadn't mentioned this previously in the thread, but I always felt like my subwoofers were not performing as they should. They had amazing punch, but no low end. My gut told me something was off, and it can't just be due to them being low-profile subs, since I had a single low-profile 12 inch before in a box I built and it seemed to get lower. I re-verified my amp crossover settings. I had put both subsonic and x-over filter to MAX, thinking that would leave them fully open so that the DSP would be the only one to do its thing. Well, what I didn't realize is that I had the sub-sonic filter set the wrong way - was set at 80Hz when it should have been closer to the minimum (which is 10Hz) - just for added safety, I set it around the quarter turn mark which is 20Hz - i know these subs won't play under that. WOW did my music come to life...rap songs sound as they should. Too much so - I will have to cut the subs a bit. Since I played with the filter settings, I will now go back and re-set the gain using my SMD-DD1 at head unit max volume, I have a feeling that I will detect some distortion at higher volume of gain now.
  6. definitely will keep you posted learning a lot through videos and reading. Opened up REW and had a look around, it’s a pretty awesome software. It has built in pink noise generator as well and you can modify what frequency ranges you want it to play. Ill probably go that route for measuring response of each speaker then each pair, and then summing all, using the aux input from my speaker directly to dsp.
  7. ..or am I just better to skip the REW test tones/filters portion (as per the REW instruction page) and go with playing plain old pink noise from REW in each speaker individually, then in pairs, then check the summation, and manually tune from the DSP software at each step where I see dips and peaks? This is what I thought to have understood from most tuners (ie youtube etc.) but I never see them go through the actual process, only showing the before and after correction curves.
  8. definitely soon, within the next weekend or two - right now I am reading up on REW (just downloaded to my laptop and tablet) - the only thing is I find the instructions are not SUPER intuitive for a first-timer. I have a few very basic procedural questions such as - do we sit outside the car while tuning? In the passenger seat or back seat? All this would affect the reading (less so sitting in back seat I guess) but then if you sit outside the vehicle, you'll have to run the wire outside to the computer. I assume slightly lowering the window is preferable to leaving the door slightly ajar. Also if I run the REQ tones through the DSP AUX input, I assume that would be fine because we are just taking measurements of each speaker characteristics themselves with sample noises rather than from a specific source (ie spotify etc.) so it shouldn't make much of a difference. It also states to remove all crossover settings to do the tests, do I assume this is also in the DSP, and then I will have to ensure that in REW, for tweeters measurement, the test tones don't go below Fs (ie 1350hZ)? Simple questions to help me get started, but the process itself seems straightforward enough, just time consuming!
  9. Hey, I am literally just going through this now - finished up my basic setup on my DSP and about to go into tuning. DSP are not for the faint of heart! Firstly are you running active or passive with your speakers? If adding the DSP and running active (much preferred as you aren't using nearly its full potential if running passive), you should set all the amp crossovers to OFF or their minimum position (so full open for the range of frequency for each amp) Then, BEFORE playing any sound from your speakers, re-verify using your DMM (more ideal would be an SMD-DD1) to set the gains (so no speakers connected) then, you will need to connect to the DSP and set all your crossover points for each speaker. My DSP has some great features to help me with this basic start-up. Once your crossovers are set, ensure that all the outputs are connected to the right speakers (you don't want to send a woofer signal to your tweeter!) Then you can start tuning - YAY! be ready for long hours. If you don<t have a microphone then it will be a bit more of a challenge for sure - but you can still do it by ear I suppose - much less accurate but what counts is you like it. DEFINITELY take the time to read Audiofrog's DSP tuning guide... https://testgear.audiofrog.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/A-Straightforward-Stereo-Tuning-Process-and-Some-Notes-About-Why-it-Works.pdf let me repeat - read, read, READ! And then, if you have more precise questions or clarification concerning tuning your system, you can come back to the forum for that.
  10. I was having some DSP issues with the Zapco GUI which nobody seemed to be able to help me figure out. Through testing and extensive trial and error, I FINALLY found a work-around for my DSP issue - although I think it is a major glitch in the processor GUI, unfortunately. Looks like not a ton of people are running the DSP-V8 original (more seem to be on the V8 II which has an updated GUI) The issue was that the DSP would not retain any changes in the crossover points or slope at all. I would save the program, then re-open it in the GUI and crossover slopes and frequencies remained the same as before. Same if I tried to download to the unit - I would write to device, then read from device (or close program, restart then read from device) and the old values were still there. I had to basically connect to the DSP, delete all presets, then go to "factory settings" which seemed to do something funky to the DSP. I then exited the GUI on my tablet, shut off the car to power down everything, then re-connected and re-started inputting all my settings from scratch (I had a photo of course) and wrote it to the DSP and BOOM it worked. I really hope I don<t have to do this each time I want to change the crossover points as it is a pain BUT after measuring with REW I assume I would get a better final idea of where the drivers perform well and do one final adjustment on the crossover points, so not a deal breaker. My crossover slopes all set to 24dB now, tweets at 3000 Hz up, mids at 80-3000 Hz - rears full range from 100hz up (they have built in crossovers), and subs at 80hz low pass. Now I have a base setup I need to take the time to start measuring and tuning. Hopefully this weekend - I assume it's a good couple of hours job to get a basic tune in there. I will need to get some renos done on our upstairs unit first, so I may have to wait a week or two to tune this. At least I can listen though! I don't seem to be getting much midbass from the door drivers; I tried just playing them on their own and observed this - not sure if it's just me or because they're small 5-1/4 and placement is in the doors which is imperfect. They're just not as punchy as I would have thought. . If I put them down to 60HZ crossover hey are a little more punchy, but their specs say 58hZ minimum frequency response and so I don't want to go too close and push them too much. I may have to re-do the gains on the amps because the DSP master volume was previously at max, but in reality it is supposed to be set to 0dB (third tick from max) which gives me more headroom at my head unit's max volume. It's pretty loud to begin with, but I have a feeling I will get used to it quick and when I am driving on highway I may want a little more - we shall see. I haven<t tried it much over half volume. Tried without the rears and I can confirm they do add something even if at lower volume than the rest - if gives a kind of larger image of sound stage - I like it but I really need to do more research, reading and watch some videos on how to optimally tune rear fill to have the greatest effect in my system.
  11. Yes I like the stealth and also ease of access while driving if needed. The aux plug is just press fit In the hole - I’ll need a method of ensuring it doesn’t fall out if I push in the aux male plug into it - maybe I’ll just put a bit of glue around the rim to hold it there. Only a $12 cable so worst case if I need to remove eventually I just cut it.
  12. Another small update to share - got to working on the DSP remote, mounting it in a nice stealth location that was otherwise unused. Not perfect but I am pretty happy with the results. This was an imperfect shape to copy so I did my best. Started with a cardboard template, then transferred over to ABS plastic, straightened out the sides with a straight piece of MDF to get a nicer finish and rounded top corners. Did a 1/8" chamfer all around the front side to ease wrapping it in carpet.
  13. Thanks! I was surprised to see that Volkswagen implemented tech flex on a lot of their wiring, especially under the seat. When I toured the speaker wires under there they marched almost perfectly - the Zen-V mounting I managed to get looking pretty clean too - once I get this connector soldered up to speaker wire and plugged in, I’ll cover it up with the OEM amplifier cover and it will be very clean. But also it will be very secure which is my biggest concern. I’d like it to last another 3 years until I think about switching cars.
  14. Also, to clean up the wiring under my seat, make it really plug-and-play and looking like OEM under there, I ordered the Male version of the amplifier plug so I can solder my speaker wires to it from the amp. Got the order info from another member on DIYMA. Hoping that it comes in the next week or two so I can finalize those connections before I start driving around too much. Here is the info for anyone that may be interested: TE Connectivity part number 1534531-1 TAB HEADER ASSY 38P AMP MCP Connector System, PCB Mount Header, Horizontal, Wire-to-Board, 38 Position, .197in [2.54mm / 4.2mm / 5.5mm] Centerline, Fully Shrouded https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1534531-1.html?te_bu=Cor&te_type=email&te_campaign=oth_usa_cor-oth-usa-email-ecomm-fy19-hbrs-oconf-prdlink_sma-716_2&elqCampaignId=37418
  15. So, I was finally able to update the NavTV Zen-V using their cable as well as my Surface tablet. It fixed my problem with the head unit equalizer - all set to zero (flat) now. Used spotify tones along with the SMD-DD1 distortion detector to set all my gains on the 4-channel and 2-channel speaker amps using 1khz test tone at 0db. Gain was a little less than half for all, more or less. For the sub amp, I found it weird, because at max volume on the head unit, I turned the gain up to max, the DD-1 was showing that it detected the 40HZ signal but NO CLIPPING! Am I to assume that the signal is clean and amp gain is optimal even at full? I know this amp is a pretty good one made by a renound electrical engineer so maybe it is true. Anyways, I have detected no clipping in the subs during my initial setup of DSP. I then set up the DSP and MAN is this thing powerful! I just set up some basic EQ points for all speakers, measured to each speaker and did the time alignment calculation (had to double check the manual again for this as it was not super clear in the software how to do it right). I am astonished on how clear the sound is - my wife sat with me in the car and we turned it up, you only realize how clear and loud it is when you try to speak and can't hear yourself. Still need to do proper tuning with the UMIK-1 and REW to get things dialed in, and I am pretty sure the subs need some breaking in, but as it stands I am very happy with the initial sound. Here are my basic crossover settings so far, feel free to shoot some tips/advice if you see anything - The only thing I can't figure out, is that I keep trying to set the curves to 24dB slopes, but after I download to DSP, it doesn't retain that and they all get set back to 12dB. I'll have to read the manual again and see if there is something I have to do or if this is a glitch.
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