dog24fret

It will be 8 12" hifi12d4s powered by DD cm1s 4 on each amp.If you didn't see the first post on this it'll be in a 97 e-150 van.The port area was too small so this one is a little bigger and hopefully it works well.Thanks and any input is always welcomed.

My first box set up was not going to work.The port was not going to have any breathing room.So I put port up subs back like I was informed and made it bigger.If I load this right this time please check the Torres calculator see if it is right this time.Thank guys for the time and help. [/img] I swear I must be an idiot I have yet been able to post one pic without help.This is what I'm doing I go to my photo bucket and right click on the img code.Then come back and click on insert image button and right click in the box and paste then click insert image.All I get is what you see.I have pics from my wife's build but ain't going to waste everyone's time with it if I can't post the pics.Maybe I need a beginners area too or slap the air out of my head.

I saw on KenC210's post that it was mentioned that the port needs to breath. If I do subs back port up will I have to change the port tuning or anything. If I put both back there will only be 2.5"s from port to doors. I really could use any help on this I can get. The port is the main problem I'm having to get figured out so I can start to build.

Yeah as i figured, so i will end up trying out the second box idea. It will be port and sub up. So my next question is how would i do this port bend? I am very unclear of the bends in the port and dont want to be doing the wrong measurements. If my port length is 26" on the torres how would i account for that with how i have the way this port is? Is there any performance reasons for port and sub up. Or is it just cosmetic purpose?Oh thank you again for getting my pic up.I tried to get my screenshot up but it did the same thing. How important is the 45's thing in the boxes I just haven't really got it yet. Yes sir I seen that and thanks I can't believe how much trouble I'm having with that. Yea I'm curious about my box too lol. This post is helping on mine also like the port needing more breathing room. From the box to the doors it'll have 2.5"s so I may have to fire the port up. Thanks for the help you've given me. I did that pic in your post again... i didn't realize it was you that i did that for i just forgot about going back to your post before to see if you got any support on your build. i was curious about your box also

Thanks sir I don't know either I go to photobucket and right click on img. Then I come over here and click on image insert and paste it there. All I get is words no pics and that's keeping me from posting what I've done on my wife's car so far. Yes sir the port is driving me crazy I use to build houses from foundations to sideing. Also run fiber optic cables from headend to each node and splice into the trunks and amps. But I can't figure out the port or posting a pic that's so freaking irritating.Then I see the stuff people do on here and all I can say is wow.Thanks again

Yeah as i figured, so i will end up trying out the second box idea. It will be port and sub up. So my next question is how would i do this port bend? I am very unclear of the bends in the port and dont want to be doing the wrong measurements. If my port length is 26" on the torres how would i account for that with how i have the way this port is? Is there any performance reasons for port and sub up. Or is it just cosmetic purpose?Oh thank you again for getting my pic up.I tried to get my screenshot up but it did the same thing. How important is the 45's thing in the boxes I just haven't really got it yet.

i can't really get specific here, as i haven't compared the two. i'd think to your ears it may or may not be noticeable, but to the meter it would probably make a good bit of difference. Ok thanks,even though I forgot didn't in my last post.Where can I find info on this subject to see if it will make a difference in my box buil.

On my port the actual cut is 15"s.The other 1.5"s is the sub wall and the decorative support wall.Not sure what to call it.Do I need to figure in the vinyl also into the port.Or will that matter enough to worry about.Hopefully I will start to build Tuesday unless there's something I need to fix.Any and all help I've gotten is very appreciated. Thanks

i've never personally used threaded rod, but from what i hear, it's a very good alternative for 2x2's. they don't displace much air and don't interrupt airflow as much. Ok thank you.I really think of the airflow being interrupted inside of a box.How much dose that affect the performance.

I have noticed that threaded rods are used for bracing.Is that better than using 2x2's or baffles.I really like your box.Looks like it can handle some power with no flex.

[/img] Ok once again this is what i end up with.I copied the IMG and pasted it in the insert image and this is what I get.So what am I doing wrong I totally feel like a idiot trying to figure this out.This is the Torres' calculator.

My Torres' will not let my save or copy. Each time I try it erases and closes. I've tried deleting it and reinstalling it 3 times to no avail. At one point it gave me a gross volume of 10.745ft3 after putting in 38"h-45"w-21"d. The port would change also my inside measurements are 4"h-43.5"w. To 45"w on the cut sheet. When I wrote the book I tried to write everything down just like it was on the calculator. If that helps any I'm hoping this explains it a little better cause I know I don't explain things very well. You have to use the "snipping tool" to take a picture, or screen shot of the Torres. Then just upload it like any other pic! Ok I'll work on it after church. Thank you sir.

upload your pics to photobucket..Copy the IMG code. and past the code into the insert image button on the add reply section of this forum, its next to a big yellow smiley face lol Ok thanks. It's the insert Link button next to the big smiley. That's the only thing I see on my iPad screen.

Good or bad crazy.

My Torres' will not let my save or copy. Each time I try it erases and closes. I've tried deleting it and reinstalling it 3 times to no avail. At one point it gave me a gross volume of 10.745ft3 after putting in 38"h-45"w-21"d. The port would change also my inside measurements are 4"h-43.5"w. To 45"w on the cut sheet. When I wrote the book I tried to write everything down just like it was on the calculator. If that helps any I'm hoping this explains it a little better cause I know I don't explain things very well.

Yes sir KenC210 that's what I was wanting thank you. What the heck was I doing wrong other than being a idiot with some of this stuff.

That's a nice looking ride sir.Is the fender lip all you rolled.Or did you have to roll the flare also.Love the work on the suspension.What type of shop do you run.

I really could use some help on this.Will someone walk me through how to put pics in here.

My Torres' box calculator or my computer is not getting the figures right.Each time I put the measurements in they are different.These measurements are the Torres' box calculator has given me plus my figures.I have also included the van specks if needed. Please help. Box height 38" Box width 45" Box depth 21" Sub displacement .88ft3 Bracing displacement 1.2ft3 Gross volume 17.92ft3 (my figures 20.78ft3) Net volume 14.21ft3 (my figures after displacements 17.21ft3) Port volume 2.15ft3 Port area per cubic ft 12.24in2 Port area 174in2 Port range 171-227in2 Tuning freq 35.20Hz Port height 4" Port width 43.5" Port depth 15.75" Physical port length 15" Van interior gross ft3 338ft3 Van net volume 246ft3 (after seats,wheel wells,dash,sub box and misc. are taken out) Cone area 759.88in2 I have been reading Car Stereo Cookbook and the SMD forums.Trying to learn the best ways to do this.All I have done is get totally lost as to which or what is the best way is.I am unable to figure out the port volume or displacement.What is my actual port figures?I want to tune in the 35Hz range.The system I'm building is 8 12" hifi12d4s running off of 2 DD cm1's.6 6.5" Planet Audio components and 2 Fosgate 8" subs.What dose the sub cone area displacement really have to do with the interior volume.Please help do this right and learn what really is important for everyday use.I know some of this my be overkill but wanting to learn how all this really works.Any help will be greatly appreciated.[/img]I can't figure out how to post the box pics from photo bucket.

Thanks Wicks for the info. I'll be posting the box in a few.

If I may ask a question about this subject. I'll be going from 500 watts to 2000 watts. From 4 to 8 12" subs. I am not at all sure what the gain would be on that application.

Will keep you and your family in my thoughts and prayers. Sorry for the loss,still bites in the heart.

Ha Ha at least everyone didn't down me on this.Seriously thanks everyone.The total power for her car will be 650-700 rms.100 to front,100 to rear and 500 to the subs.The cost of the wire is not a problem already got 50 feet.For use in the van and this car but it is the room and safety of running that size.Very little room from alt to a place to run it maybe just me but it is very tight.thanks again

Alrighty then they will not be used.Yea that's the one thing I liked was the lights and numbers moving.Lame reason lol.Thanks again guys.Oh all most forgot dose the big 3 upgrade have to be 1/0 or will 4 gauge work in the escort.Will be the first upgrade I've done so don't want to screw it up then have to fix it.

Ok did know they were supposed to smooth out the power ripples but not the rest so thank you.So that means in my wifes car that I'm finishing up don't hook up the cap.I will be doing the big three upgrade on it this weekend.On that subject so I don't wast post space will 4gauge work in her car 99 Ford Escort.Really not enough room for 1/0 wire.The cap in my van should come out cause the van has a near constant 14 volt output 99Ford E-150 conversion van.Thanks guys for clearing it up.