sundownz

I'd like to break down the FETs in this amp vs. some of our other amps to really give you the idea of how beefy it is. 1) POWER SUPPLY * 12x IRF3205, power dissipation rating of 2400-watts combined * Our 4500D uses this same part number but 32 of them and can produce 8k+ on 18v reliably and over 5k on 14v. Think about it. 2) OUTPUT SECTION * 8x Fairchild FDA59N25 for 3136 total watts rated dissipation (and these are very high current parts as well) * Our SAZ-3000D had 12 IRFP360LC rated for a total of 3360 watts dissipation and could produce over 5kw on 18v reliably and over 3k on 14v. So... put another way, the FETs will not be sweating at all to produce anything resembling rated power

November ish.

It is laid out like the Brazil amps - but is not the same type design. You will need a Maxx-Link to strap these. But you can get 3kw out of a pair easy. I am reluctant to release all of my power testing data on them as I put bigger fuses in to do it... rest assured these are VERY powerful amps.

You will be able to get credit for your old amp.

Yes. I have yet to see one of the black boxes fail either. They are quite durable.

The casing will look like the current 1200D. We tooled that case up so I plan to keep using it. It looks like the original SAE-1000D but features the extra internal cooling fins like we added to the SAZ line. Matching multi-channels are in the works.

They do not have internal strapping capability. --- Eric, Power output will be very close to the current model, just a hair more... higher efficiency thanks to some of the changes, though

150-amps for production like the v.1 1200D

No, neither was the 1200D v.1

Updates : 1) Double sided PCB board (v.1 was single sided) 2) More primary input caps 3) Large brass bars for power supply current 4) Revised layout 5) Superior Soldering and assembly quality Same power as the existing 1200D but overall higher quality throughout based on what we learned from the v.1 model. Who would be interested in a pre-sale at, say, around $250 These amps are capable of 1500+ watts.

Mounting foot to mounting foot : Case only :

So... I've been suffering with horrible front speakers ever since I sold my BMW 325i a few years back. Due to the nature of the audio business I have been implementing SPL system in my Jeep (the whole reason I got it) and neglecting the front stage. NO MORE! Finally something decent... DLS Iridium Tweeter DLS Iridium 3" Dome Mid Peerless SLS 830945 5.25" Midbass * Kick panels donated by a customer hence the mis-matched color. The wooden adapter rings are temporary... thinking about getting some aluminum rings machined locally and powder coated to match and also paint the kick panels. Need to vacuum too Have not fixed up the door panel yet since I have not decided if this arrangement is permanent. * 3Sixty.2 handling processing... thinking about an Audison Bit.1 if the problems have been resolved. * SAX-50.4 on bottom and SAX-125.2 in the middle. The 50.4 powers mids and tweeters and the 125.2 powers the midbass. I am quite pleased with the little 5.25" Peerless driver but I may end up going to a 6.5" later on when I have a chance to make an adapter ring. These were pretty convenient and inexpensive to get the 6-year old close-out Parts Express drivers out Something still isn't quite right with my imaging as it pulls to the right pretty hard despite some initial amplitude compensation and time alignment... that needs work. Plan to get up w/ Nick from Stereo Integrity for some RTA and listening time. Speaking of Nick... I plan to get some BM 12s in this beast glassed into the rear quarter panels so I can turn off the big SPL sub rig when daily driving Overall it is a relief to have something that sounds acceptable in here... it is still messy as it is primarily and SPL rig and everything on the amp rack needs to be easily removable. I may also try a Focal Kevlar 4" and Alpine Type-X 4" midrange in the kicks... I have both available but I've always really liked the DLS

And yes, it is a remote gain cut not a remote bass boost.

I can do the exact same score with or without the knob - just compensate a little with a bit more RCA signal (higher sub control level) or amp gain. The knob is always going to have some sort of resistance and being in line with the signal it will decrease signal level a bit due to that.

I don't use my PMs on here : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=45774

Don't forget about the special... killer deals on those 3000s.

RE: 7.5 ohms FS: 31.28 Hz Qes: 0.546 Qms: 5.627 Qts: 0.498 Le: 7.03 mH Vas: 29 L BL: 26.6 N/A Cms: 99 uM/N Mms: 260 g Motor strength is right on par with the actual SA-12 within a few % It is still fresh, Fs should drop to 28 Hz or so with more play time The Cms is currently 99 uM/N and will settle closer to 140 uM/N (about 40% looser)

http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/images2/am...sign-About2.png and http://www.db-r.com/sell/store2/index.php?...products_id=215 "B-Stock: Means this amp has noticable scrapes and scratches but is otherwise fully functional and just as good as any other SAX-100.4D on the inside. B-Stock means purely cosmetic differences unless otherwise noted. "

SA-12 cone, spider, dust cap, coil + 4-spoke frame w/ 6.25 mm spacers Atomic Apocalypse 2.5" Coil Motor Going to measure T/S specs tomorrow

RE : 3.6 ohms FS : 31.08 Hz Qes : 0.59 Qms : 8.11 Qts : 0.55 Le : 3.31 mH VAS : 71.98 L BL : 19.41 N/A CMS : 81.7 uM/N MMS : 310 g

Using Z15 cone / dust cap... 8-layer FW Dual-2 Coil @ 50mm WW... two hard nomex spiders w/ double leads. I am going to measure specs once the dust cap glue dries. Not for sale - just posting pics Made it for a customer.