bass_stalker

allright, also whats the port area requirement with em?

how hard would it be for me to make some 4" aero ports out of PVC, i,m mainly wondering how i could make the flairs and if their hard to do. since i dont have the extra money to buy the real ones at 15 dollars a pop, if i cant I'll just make a slot port

how long until it falls over

pretty nice cant wait to see it cleaned up

if it had usb i'd jump on it, glws

np, I need the same info one day Where do I get a bracket? mechman or dc power could probably make one or might already make one. or you could have a shop make out one out of some steel

not a problem hopefully the info can help both of you guys out, just remember it may be slightly different on all vehicles

A question I was going to ask when the time comes. But, see it here so maybe I can get my answered. Can it be another alt wiring harness spliced into the other one? Or is that a bad idea? that i'm unsure about, actually let me link you guys to one of dc power's install guides for their dual alt kit for a silverado, it wont be exact but it can show you a few common things dual alternator installation

you need a bracket, you could get an adjustable voltage module if you want, extra runs of charge and ground and an adaptor harness to run both alts

lol good suggestion hell then i might get cherokee parts

that i will be doing from now on, its just frustrating i can tell them 3 times its a jeep Cherokee and i get parts for a Grand Cherokee and yes they are fixing the problem, i cant bitch about that

once again O'Reilly's has screwed me over again, i bought my rear transmission seal a few months back but couldnt change it because someone had rounded the bolt off. well today i got smart and hammered a 5/16 socket onto the rounded bolt and got it off, well i pull off my drive shaft and i get the old seal out only to realize the seal they sold me wont fit, so i go back to the store to buy the new bolt and to exchange the seal, only to find out the seal they sold me was for a grand Cherokee, well they were nice and ordered the right part ( i hope) and are having it sent to the store over night at no extra charge, i'm just glad that i can borrow my moms truck to take to school tomorrow and i don't have to walk, but what really pisses me off is that this isnt the first time they sold me the wrong part. ive had this happen before when i got my new gas shocks for my hatch because they sold me the shocks for a grand Cherokee. i guess my point is a jeep Cherokee is different from a grand Cherokee and even though i tell them that it is a regular jeep Cherokee they still sell me parts to a jeep Grand Cherokee and try to tell me that i have a jeep Grand Cherokee.

i havent done it personally, but one of my coworkers did the led blinkers in his ranger and he said the blinkers flashed way faster, but when he did it in his silverado he couldn't get his blinkers to work and he had to go to an led compatible flasher

are you looking to do your blinkers too?, if you do you might need to change your flasher/relay to one that's led compatible. if i recall right leds in the blinker will cause the flaser to think the bulb is burnt because of the low voltage

if its 2 ohm stable that means you cant go below 2 ohm

how hard would you say it is to actually use 4 inch diameter PVC pipe as an aeroport

maybe the pole shifted? other than that i dont know what to tell you

well without the slot port i'm up to 8.56 cubes with 4 4inch areos set to a 10 inch length tuned to 32hz . about 5.87 inches of port area per foot

i thought of it and that might have to happen, i'm trying to keep the box as cheap as possible but if i gotta get areos to do it right ill wait and save to get em. what would you figure 2, 4 inch diameter or would i need more, ive never used em.

ah i may just have to do port up then, see thats where i'm a noob lol i understand the basics but not the things like loading and stuff like that

actually i'm trading an Xbox for them and a few other things for them, and i wish i had the slim spare tire would be soo much better lol

would there be any issue with the hatch only being a few inches from the port? i think it may only be one or two inches away

this should kinda show the area i have to work with, those dimensions are the most i could fit between the wheel wells and between the hatch and seats

i think currently i'm about 2 inches above the rear seats, as for the port, which would you do? subs up port up, or subs up port back

both true points, hell my rear view fell off before i even had bass