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AMI CUSTOMS

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Everything posted by AMI CUSTOMS

  1. And keep your hand off the volume knob until you get all that in, if you play it at full tilt and let the voltage drop, you will end up replacing more then just the battery, amp will be with it.
  2. Replace alt and battery at same time and upgrade wire.
  3. That aq amp will eventually kill that stock battery, no way around it.
  4. replace that stock battery first with the xs 3400 and then get another 3400 later,and then 230 amp alt or so and done. That would be ZERO voltage drop.
  5. I got it, I was with ya when you first said it, since you increased current demand on the output side the heat would result.
  6. I know exactly what you are saying, my point was that lower voltage with lower ohm load is what creates that heat, not just wiring to lower ohm load. If I wire to .5 ohm and my voltage drop 4 volts vs. no drop, which one would have more heat? Obviously my amp is gonna get hella hotter with the larger voltage drop, NOW was that from wiring it down in ohm load? NO!!! My electrical couldn't handle it, so my voltage sagged and created the heat from the increase in current flow.... I guess maybe I am just looking at this from a input side only and he is stressing output side....LOL
  7. You get heat from voltage sag. And not have correct electrical, sure you will get more heat if you try to pull 300 amps thru some 4 gauge cable that is 15 ft long.
  8. Dude needs to quit car audio and do some film editing stuff, holy crap that was impressive.
  9. You can fit 4 of those in the engine bay of a 4.3, there are a few over on the s10 forums that have done it.
  10. It will only go bad from sitting if it is hooked up and having to powering something for months, like the ecu in a car. If it was sitting in his garage not hooked up to anything and he didn't abuse it, then it will be fine. Go buy a brand new battery from xs power and put a DMM on it and see what the voltage is, I had one that was resting at 12.4 volts and my charger said 11% capacity, why??? Cuz it had been sitting in there warehouse for probably a year or longer. Just charged it up slow for a few hours. No issues.
  11. Cut the orange wire( or wire you think is orange) Done.
  12. okay yup exactly what I thought, I would like to know your rise? Is your box very peaky or no, more musical? My guess is musical, just guessin..... And I would bet you are rising just over 1ohm per amp if you are running them strapped.
  13. I would like to know what you are rising to and you only listen to music that has alot of high continual bass? Or you listen to punchy bass like rock at full tilt. Both types of music affect imp rise, in case you are wondering. Also what kind of electrical?
  14. Wiring down in ohm load isn't what increases heat, the additional current is what creates that heat from the voltage drop, if you have ZERO drop, you are able to keep the voltage up, then it will NEVER get not at any ohm load!!!!! The drop creates the heat. Other questions above, IMP RISE is calculated by this OHMS LAW You must current clamp one of your speaker wires coming out of the amp, it doesn't matter which one, and read ac current. You must do this at full tilt with a burp of your vehicle peak. So play a track of where your system TL meters the highest!!!! Do the same test with a DMM set to ac voltage and measure the ac voltage coming off the speakers leads, + and - . You can do both of these measurements at the same time if you have a current clamp and DMM and set both to peak hold. Take those two values and divide like so ACvoltage/ACcurrent that number will be your resistance,,,,example ACVoltage measured 114 ACcurrent measured 81 114/81 = 1.4 ohm You can also take those numbers and multiple them and get your real amp power at peak!!! 114*81= 9234 Watts The above example is when I am wired at .5 ohm.
  15. .7 ohm was on burp and it has handled over 100 burps at that ohm load, now that is two of them strapped at .5 ohms rising to 1.4 ohms, so each amp is wired at .25 ohm and seeing .7 ohm. On music haven't tried yet, I would think it wouldn't like it, but haven't tried and probably won't no need to with two of them strapped it is more then enough power for what I want out of it on music.
  16. aq3500 does MORE then rated power, quite a bit. I clamped one doing 4600 watts at 10.5 volts at .7 ohms if that tells you anything.
  17. two d3100's and replace the starting battery with the biggest one you can fit will get him by. You are gonna need alot of runs of 0 gauge to help keep voltage up, because as you know the batts will be carrying that setup.
  18. It depends on the amp as well, some companies put protection circuits on the amp so it won't allow you to do so. But for the most part if you stay above the voltage limit of the power supply on the amp then it will hold together. Hell I ran two 4k size amps strapped at .5 ohm and my voltage dropped to 10.5 volts on burp, no issue with that at all. Now that is about as low as I would want to take it on that particular amp. But there is some things to consider, your electrical demand, and you imp rise. If you are running at 1 ohm and decided to drop to .5 ohm, you current(amps) demand is going to almost double. So if you where pulling 90 amps thru the power wire, now you will be trying to pull 180+. Now this also depends on the efficiency of the amp in question. And you have to remember imp rise, when you are wired at 1 ohm nominal you may actually be at 2 ohms due to imp rise, so if you wire down to .5 nominal, you will now be at 1 ohm due to imp rise, so now the amp is making it's max power. This is what competitions do to get the most out of there equipment. It is exactly what I do with my walled sierra.
  19. Well if it was vibrating bad, then that is what broke the metal, alum and vibration doesn't do well, just imagine a paper clip, you bend it back and forth enough times it breaks, same principal here. Call up dc, I would think they should take care of this, but you should have mentioned the vibration issue when you first installed to dc.
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