crunkjuice1

sO i NEED TO ADD ANOTHER RUN OF POSITIVE AND NEGATIVE 1/0 TO REAR BATTERY?

From the paper that comes with the XSpower battery it says to use an AGM charger and not to supply charge over 14.4v for 12v batteries AT NO TIME during charging should the battery be subjected to more than 2.4v per cell. I read in another of the papers not to let the battery take 15v longer than five minutes. Because they can gas.

I most likely be ordering a crescendo 3500 later today and want to get my to do list in line for my last jump in my build thanks.

G I Joe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the way it is now will not work? Do I need more runs of power and ground from front to back?

Jk'ing on car but thats what I feel mine is like compared to you guys cars lol, anyways from front to rear batteries only has one run for + and - do I need another run of each? About 400rms highs amp yes.

in this

I have 240 mechman alt big 3 in 1/0 pos and neg 1/0 from alt to a S3400 under hood pos and neg 1/0 runs to a D1200 in trunk 300amp fuse at front and rear of pos run on batteries. What else would I need? Another D1200 perhaps? (limited space in trunk but it is possible)

lol I say this to everyone all the damn time

You can just lower the adjustable voltage boost module down to 15v cold and once car warms up it will float around 14.4 to 14.8v. Thats on 12v batteries though and I'm sure the coming summer heat might lower it some more. You will have instructions that tell you how to set the potentiometer.

charge cap first but from what I remember on mine it loses juice quick until you wire it in. Pretty much get ring terminals and add them to the ground and power lines that go to amp and hook those to the cap then run new power and ground from cap to amp. I don't know if your cap has screws up on top or inputs for wire with hold down screws but if you have a distribution block for amps just run power line from cap to block as well as the rest of grounding. Be sure to charge it first it should have come with a little card like thing that has a light that dims as cap is filled.

no they had something for me and answered the phone. Mine aint officially screwed either I might be over reacting and all mine needed was tightening of belt since my car does not have a auto belt tensioner. Tomorrow I will let the last thing be the judge and thats going to be the clamp.

exactly my car is a hyundai accent 98 hoopty that I never could find anything for until recently.

I been thinking the same thing my alt has that adjustable voltage boost module harness which I have tinkered with and like that after warm up my voltage had always sat at 14.8 to 14.6v but towards the end of today the car would nearly stall out. I just came in from a test drive after tightening belt some more and voltage is at 14.8 14.7v. I have wondered what would happen or if its ok to connect my cars alt cable directly to alt without the AVBM. Regardless if its something messed up that keeps failing even after two years hopefully they can take care of you. My unit is supposed to be redesigned from the last year model but I think sometimes the alt and cars computer bump heads still.

I just came in from experiencing same voltage issues. I have a new belt on it on 2/14/11 but its there 240 amp alt on a different car. The belt was new stretched and squeaked a bit tightened it a bit more and had been fine until today. Today was really hot out and I just finished tightening belt a bit more since I'm hoping it was affected by the heat and stretched a little more. Tomorrow I'm getting a clamp to see what its putting out. I'm just scared it most likely its the same as your situation.

zip 78228 thank you.

True very good reason.

love taps, love taps, not full force kill blows, but yeah location IS sensitive so try to skip that part.

same as audio said but you can go cheaper. I went to lowes and bought a tiny drill bit and drilled a hole in middle of broken screw (use center punch first) then they also sell a reverse out drill bit the swirls on it are going the other way and you use drill in reverse. Actual name is kobalt #1 spiral screw extractor and a dewalt split point cobalt drill bit 3/32. Patience and a sharp center punch before you start to drill so bit doesn't walk is the main part once extractor catches it will clean threads on way out, good luck. http://www.lowes.com/pd_232606-1083-358241_0__?productId=1065081&Ntt=screw+extractor&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Dscrew%2Bextractor http://www.lowes.com/pd_71093-70-DW1206_0__?productId=1209435&Ntt=3%2F32&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3D3%252F32 EDIT: I read audio's link and thats what is needed.

mechman doesn't have an adjustable voltage boost module harness for your application?

Your half way there!!!! Keep doing what your doing even after you save up and get it you will have money for everything else you want!

no problem I found link to pricing on the ones I posted through link above http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_21099_EFX-Delta-D-Clamp-by-Scosche.html it takes two 0g connections.