SnowDrifter

YES! I like projects, and have time to do one. So why not? Folks: I'm not looking for a crash course about what brands to buy and quality and anything else. I'm just looking to have some fun and learn about this stuff.

Not saying you CANT do it, nor know your background,but its more then just a light that blinks... Most the amplifiers on the market now, dont even have anywhere near and accurate clipping indicator, so if multimillion dollar companies building amplifiers cant figure it out, what makes you think you can? Hell if it was so easy to make a clipping indicator, it wouldnt of took D'amore engineering along with Juan and Steve months and months of time to build the SMD DD-1 clipping and distortion detector beofore going into production, and your gonna built it in 1 day??? and these are head Engineers from Rockford Fosgates in the R&D department for a LONGGGGGGGGG time. I thought I could just go off of the various wiring diagrams on google. I am under the impression that a basic clipping detector would illuminate an led if the signal starts to go from ac to dc because of clipping - which is very different from the DD-1 which as I understand it, detects any level of distorion. Since clipping is a form of distortion, then the DD-1 detects it. Since what I want to to is vastly more simplistic, why is it unreasonable to sit down and put it together in a day. Correct me if I am completely off base since my background is a high school kid who wants to learn about this stuff

Sweet! As for the other questions: yes, its to measure amplifier output. As for the clipping part, I'll probably just build a clipping indicator. I have an extra day to occupy my time... So it's the perfect chance to undergo a project

I have an idea to make an artificial load to an amplifier. I have an old ceramic heater with an infinitely adjustable heat knob. Could I take this apart and take the wires from the heating element, adjust the knob to my desired ohm load, and hook it up to the amp? Or is there some reason why I shouldn't do it? I really need your input on this. I don't want to blow anything up.

Make a removable port like the one steve meade has so you can tweak with the port area / length and secure it with t-nuts Then get some 14 inch MDF circles, and a 12 inch cutout for your box. Cut the MDF circle to the cutout of the sub so you have an MDF ring. Secure the ring to the box using T-nuts then screw the sub into the ring. If you get a 10 inch sub or another 12 with a different cutout, toss the olf mdf ring and make a new one to fit.

I got the idea from seeing somebody put sound deadening on the inside of their port for sound quality. I am trying to do that to my box, but have a bunch of bracing that would make it a PITA to do with sheets.

I'm looking for some good but cheap sound deadener to spray on the inside of my upcoming box build to eliminate any echoes / resonating anything from it. The places I have available to me are Napa, O'Reilly, Home Depot, and Lowes. So if I can get it at one of those places, it would be awesome.

Here is a quick video for those of you who want to see what this song is about and can't be bothered to download it. Its also a great way to break in a new sub =)

I was bored - so I added bass to a song. I will have a better version up tomorrow after I play with it some more. Its tough to get the bass right through cheap earbuds. Anyways: let me know what you think Caution: the song hits low.Link

Effeciency too. A 1000 watt amp at 50% effeciency will draw 2000 watts needing 2000 watts of fuses. A 1000 watt amp at 95% effeciency will draw 1050 watts - needing only 1050 watts of fuses. Or as is popular with cheap amps: the box says 1000 watts, but the amp is really a 300 watt amp needing only 400 watts or so of fuses. =)

Did you measure the voltage at the battery or the amp? If from the battery, measure it from the wires where they go into the amp and post back

Could you be more specefic? I'm assuming you mean setting the gain. Is you EQ a separate unit or is it the one as part of the head unit?

the amp isnt going into protect mode... its more like just the sub bass cutting out on really low bass notes but plays other bass freq? if that makes any sense? My buddy's car did that before he upgraded his wire. Pull out a multi meter and check the voltage at your battery when the amp is bumpin. If that's fine, check the voltage at the amp while it is playing. If it's low, then do the big 3 and use the biggest wire you can. If that is fine, try replacing your fuses - I have heard stories of them getting some sort of memory that makes them act like they are lower amperage then they are rated for. This is all assuming that it isn't clipping and the speakers are wired properly

I have. However, I have just gotten 2 conflicting answers and this being a public forum - I am hoping that others can chime in as well. Don't get me wrong - I am not 'sticking my nose up' at your advice. As someone who knows more than me about this, I appreciate, respect, and desire your input. Just understand where I am coming from when I have 2 people giving me 2 different answers.

The sub weights about 30lbs, but whether its at the top of the box or at the bottom - it's a non issue since the box will be in a corner with a shelf boxing it in so all sides except the baffle will have coverage So the question is top or bottom?

Ummm... Bump?

I have a tall box designed to hold a single sub. My question is do I put it towards the top? The middle? Down towards the port? I can't seem to find any info on this. Here is the box in question

not to sure how a hybrid works but dont u only start a car once when u plan on driving it not tryin to sound like a dick just wondering what ur meaning by start cycle Hybrids turn off the engine when gliding or when stopped at a light to save fuel. At some point, the engine has to turn back on. It is this constant starting and stopping and the (possible?) associated wear I am wondering about.

A thought occurred to me today. How do Toyota, and other hybrid car manufacturers mitigate the typical wear associated with startup? It seems to me that the engines would wear much faster because of their many start cycles - most of the wear happens on startup since the oil is in the pan, not where the moving parts are. I have read around and it seems that there is a special start cycle of some sort, but I'm not sure what it is. Could someone help me wrap my head around this?

Does anybody know of a restkit equivilant for Windows Phone 7?

I don't mean this in a mean way.. It's annoying to have to rebuild a box but: Download winISD pro from here www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro The follow this guide to use it since it is alpha(before beta) software and still finnickey at times. You have to close out of it with the task manager http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers-general-discussion/6330-winisd-pro-tutorial-download-detailed-guide-how-use-winisd-pro.html

I forgot to mention... The battery life is 1:45-2:00 hours, it plays crysis and most of the new games, has a 17" screen, and the CPU will beat out the newer I7s any day in multithreaded, and especially single threaded performance(overclocked to 3.3ghz remaining withing intel's voltage specs for the CPU) Not sure if it makes a difference, but I figured I would add it just in case

Yeah. I don't see any with my cpu - which I refuse to part with unless the price reflects accordingly since it was a $1000 option. So I am still 'up in the air' in terms of what it is worth

I have a BIG laptop, and I'm just looking to downgrade... How much could I get for it? Lenovo thinkpad w700 Specs: Cpu: Intel QX9300 Extreme @2.53ghz (this is the high-end, expensive CPU, not the normal Q9300) Graphics: Nvidia Quadro FX 2700m Ram: 8 gigs DDR3 Hard Drive: 250gig & 400gig Display: Matte 1920x1200 - perfect condition Keyboard and touchpad: excellent condition. Only a slight 'sheen' on the left mouse button from use Exterior: Good condition except for a small bit of wear on the corners (typical for these) and a small scuff on the top of the screen Has 1.3mp webcam Has fingerprint reader HDMI out DVI out VGA out Gigabit Ethernet Mini PC slot Smart card reader 9 cell battery 2 170w power bricks - one of them with an extra long cable 5 USB ports Wireless 'N' Wifi Soundcard Security chip with stolen laptop tracking + drive encryption Has all of the nifty thinkpad things on it like hard drive protection and such Also: How much would I get if I did/didn't include win7 x64 / Visual Studio 2010 Pro x64 / Office Premium x64 Replies appreciated. Thanks

10.2 seconds, bone stock. The only mod I see in the future is super-chips. Nothing is impressive about it haha. I just noticed a distinct lack of 0-60 videos with the 6 speed. They are all automatics.