SnowDrifter
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Posts posted by SnowDrifter
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Confirm unopened?
If so, those things were used, abused, and put away wet before they ever made it to your doorstep. Yikes. -
LTOs won't light off if you over charge them. But you'll turn them into paper weights in a matter of weeks/months.
Leaving them in there in a 6s config won't harm them.... But at a fraction of usable capacity... The added bulk, weight, and complexity of wiring becomes a difficult sell
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If I pull from XS power's LTO chart, charging at 14.4v puts your LTO bank at 25% capacity
I really don't see a way to get both of these to play nice with eachother. If you really want to get appropriate usability out of your chemistries, I think you might have some decisions to make -
Right on
Honestly, bluetooth monitoring is fine. Good keeping an eye on it.
However, I do have some concerns about mixing chemistries. Lithium batteries have some pretty wildly different voltage ranges depending on said chemistry
Full charge voltages are as follows:
- LTO: ~2.8v
- LFP(headway): 3.65v
- NMC/NCA/LMO: 4.20v
My concern with the different configs is that one chemistry might be starved for energy and not reaching full charge - under-utilization. Or, worse, over-charging and risking degradation / fire risk (depending on the chemistry).
My other concern is what the alternator charge/temp profile is. Lithium cells are charged CC/CV - charge up to a given voltage and hold it there indefinitely. This differs from lead/acid chemistries which introduce a float charge as the final step, where voltage is held around 13-13.5v after the battery stops accepting current.
Stock alternators are designed to either passively, or actively (controlled via car's computer) honor an appropriate charge profile for lead-acid batteries. That's why your voltage is high when the car is cold, then drops when hot. However, this isn't a great approach for lithium as you risk either over-charging when cold, or only utilizing a fraction of the capacity when hot. A good approach here would be to look into external regulation for the alternator - a separate voltage controller for the output that maintains roughly the same voltage both hot and cold. See: Transpo 911-02R.
On the topic of chemistries: Honestly, LTO is like... The gold standard for car audio. It excels at high load, high cycles, broad temperature swings, and tends to fail gracefully rather than present a fire risk. That said, they aren't the most energy dense with respect to volume or weight, nor are they the best value per dollar when comparing capacity-per-cost. That said, it's my opinion that if you are looking to expand your bank, look into more LTO rather than introducing other chemistries w/ different voltage requirements to it. -
I'm sorry man I don't mean to be rude, but I'm really having trouble following what you're saying.
Would you mind re-typing / re-formatting so it's easier to follow? I want to help ya, but I'm not the best reader
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Capacitors start at 0v. Most battery chargers are 'smart' and don't energize until they see a turn-on voltage. Better ones still can detect between 6v and 12v batteries. Better ones still can reject the charge if a cell in the battery is bad.
I'm curious if the unique charge profile of capacitors was confusing your charger and causing it to abort.
Location-wise, they should go close to your load - near your amplifiers.
Though.... I am a little curious about the battery mish-mash you have going on. Mind sharing details about it? How's your alternator set up? -
What do you mean shutting down chargers?
What's the exact model you have? Or pics?
What I would do is this:
- If they're in a bank, disassemble them to individual capacitors
- Use/make a "test light" and connect each capacitor to it, one at a time, to drain them to 0.0v. Can use a brake-light bulb and some alligator clips
- Once they're all drained, assemble them to your bank.
- Take that same test light, and use that to charge the bank to ~5v
- Measure the voltage across each capacitor. No need to disassemble the bank. But they should all be the same voltage. If so, keep charging. If not, then there's some tolerance / bad units in there that needs to be addressed
- Keep charging to >10v. Once there, then you can hook up your battery charger to it. Or leave it until it's >12v and safely integrate it into your vehicle's electrical
Note: do NOT try and hook up an un-charged super capacitor bank to your vehicle. Powering a dead cap bank is like shorting out your wiring. Huge inrush current, lots of sparks, probably going to blow fuses. -
That 5 gig has me feeling some type of way.....
That's internet faster than some SSDs
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Explanation and rambling below.
tl;dr, speaker outputs are high voltage, amp casing is ground. Treat it accordingly. If everything still works, I doubt there's any long standing damage to either device.
A bit of heat shrink isn't a bad idea, or even a fully insulated connector. Will tag @TonyD'Amore so he can see this.
Full bridge, half bridge, class D, AB, etc are all the same in this regard
The rails on the amp are energized, and the amp casing is, electrically, a ground.
Full bridge / half bridge within this context only refers to if the voltage modulation (signal) happens on one terminal, or both. But regardless, they're both energized. They need to be. Having one terminal at "0v" and the other terminal at any other voltage would just be like wiring a battery to your speaker - DC offset.
negative/positive doesn't really exist here as we normally think about negative and positive.... It's just to keep phase consistent, so just bear that in mind when I talk about this. Imagine both pos and neg are charged to 40v. How do you move the driver forward? Positive needs to increase to >40v, so that the ΔV is positive. So, if you play a signal that has an amplitude of 20v, your positive would need to be 60v, and your negative would remain 40v. ΔV = 60v-40v=20v.
Then on the other half of the sine wave, where the driver needs to move backwards, positive would be reduced to 20v, so ΔV = 20v-40v=-20v.
Whether this is done through one of the output terminals, or both, doesn't matter for the sake of this context. The point I'm trying to make is that regardless of the amplifier design, your speaker terminals should be treated as an energized, high voltage source. Hell, the large 12kw+ amplifiers put out more voltage than you'd get at a wall socket. They become a genuine electrical hazard if you start reaching around and fiddling with stuff wile the system is on.
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Found some snow!
ft. dog who gave herself brainfreeze
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Had WAY too close of a call with a pedestrian
In hindsight, I should have picked up on her sudden sprint was an intent to cross earlier than I did.
Missed it because there wasn't the over the shoulder check / usual "I'm going to cross" body language + sign was clear the road, not cross the road.
Taking it as a learning opportunity that pedestrians are strange and unpredictable creatures and budget driving habits accordingly in the future. Now we both have stories to come home and tell.
I'm glad nothing happened. Cause that was all of 3 feet / half a second way from turning an uh-oh into an oh-no.
Stay safe out there. Look both ways when walking, look for people when driving. When in doubt, give way.-
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Anyways here's my roughly quarterly dashcam compilation
Not much in the way of shenanigans. Though...I guess that's good?
The Subaru at the end chapped my ass a bit. Driver was going 24 in a 35 with a conga line of cars behind them. But get shitty with me when all I want to do is go around and continue my day
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22 hours ago, RBoles said:
I know this is an old tread but in have to ask as a buddy of mine blew this cone off his old Memphis mojo and he said if I could rebuild it that I could have it. Please tell me I can still get ahold of a recone kit
Make a new thread here and we can get ya sorted
https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/11-subwoofers-enclosures/?do=add -
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On 10/8/2021 at 8:02 AM, SnowDrifter said:
Finally got another bike after someone cut the fucking lock off my last one.... Went a little crazy and did a thing...
Have another couple bits and bobs to wrap up on it, but it's there and rideable. Bigger brakes, storage baggie. Going to do some shenanigans with the rear hub to get my gear range back since I only have a single front sprocket now.
It's a fucking blast to ride. And it's pretty nice not having to pay out the ass for parking lmao.
Definitely not taking chances with this one. Have a fat ass fucking chain lock, U-lock, motion sensing alarm on it, and the thing comes inside with me when I'm home. Want to put GPS tracking on it, but have yet to find a tracker that tickles my fancy. Open to suggestions if anyone knows of anything - goal being to have something hidden in the frame or otherwise concealable, 7d+ battery life, <$10/mo subscription cost, and doesn't look like the manufacturer is going out of business (only 2 I found that I liked, the company is all but MIA).
1500w mid drive, 650wh battery. Get about 20mi on a charge riding like a bat out of hell. Closer to 40-50 if I'm reasonable
whooops
broke the frame on this one
New frame time
This thing is like the ship of Theseus. As of now, the original parts from the donor bike are: handle bars, stem, pedals, chain.
New frame time. With some hilarious branding
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Doesn't fit there
It's like 6x too big
Good idea though -
If anyone can tell me where this little rubber flappy bit goes, I will paypal you $5
Removed the RR quarter panel to get access to the rear HVAC and it was just chilling there on the floor. There is no where obvious that it goes.
This has become a personal affront.
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Got that engine heater wired up. Put a battery charger in there too.
Pretty nice having it in the 20s, but coolant temp is in the 160s before I turn the key. Realistically, the heater should be mounted in a vertical orientation to make it easier to bleed the air out of the system. But the pump is decently powerful, doesn't seem to cause any issue for what it's worth
Parts list if anyone wants to do the same:
Heater: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UNGL44/
Pump: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BHKW92Y/ (note that there's a 2kw version if you have 20 amp service)
-- 12v power: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H23JGS6/
-- Plug: https://www.newark.com/amp-te-connectivity/1-967412-2/receptacle-housing-2pos-black/dp/55W5049
-- Blades: https://www.newark.com/amp-te-connectivity/929938-1/contact-crimp-socket-15-13awg/dp/35M2440
-- Seal: https://www.newark.com/amp-te-connectivity/828904-1/sealing/dp/12P8371
(2) T-fittings: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COBB52/
'Bout 5ft of bulk 5/8 heater hose
Charger: https://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GEN5X1-Fully-Automatic-Temperature-Compensation/dp/B08G3NVR1N/ -
Well that was a fun list to look through
Fairly certain I found it though!
Thanks for the direction
https://www.te.com/usa-en/product-1-967412-2.html -
14 hours ago, audiokid1 said:
This could be one of many connectors unfortunately. Can you provide more specifics regarding the application? i.e. 2015 Ford Mustang front fog light.... Based on your photo my initial thought is a Molex MX150 connector, but determining the key/polarity is a little difficult. Thanks
Auxillary water pump out of a 2004 Mercedes E320. Granted... It's not going in a Mercedes. I'm doing some DIY buffoonery with it. I've been up and down @snafu's listings on CE Auto Electric and couldn't find it. I'm scratching my head just a bit.
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Any chance someone could ID this plug? On the hunt for its counterpart
SQUARE WOOFERS, ATLAS
in Subwoofers / Enclosures
Posted
Go ahead and make a new thread so we can better assist you
This one's graduating high school
https://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/forum/11-subwoofers-enclosures/?do=add