Audiobahnaholic

Check My For Sale Thread. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=24781

replied now ygpm

Bump Need to sell.

Oh Ok. Nevermind then.

When would you be able to purchase them?

Just got a PM. Question: Is it RTR Ready to Run? So I thought I'd post the answer up here also, Yes, the truck is RTR minus, putting the engine in and tuning it, fuel (can't ship the gallon I have or it would be yours), and 12 AA batteries for the remote and receiver.

ttt

Damnit P you need this toy not an amp. LOL Someone has got to jump on this. Pretty good deal imho.

Open to all offers

More Pics:

I have up for sale my Team Associated RC10GT Nitro R/C Truck. First of all before anyone asks, I am selling the truck because I don'r have time for it anymore and the closest track for me to race it is a couple hour drive each way. This truck overall is in great condition. I am looking to get $300 + shipping O.B.O. for everything. PM Me with any questions you may have. Here's what you get: Team Associated RC10GT (has brand new tires and wheels all the way around, Proline Wheels with Blade front tires, and Super Square T rears) Orange Associated Body (painted myself) O.S. Max .15 engine (blue head) The .15 is in the truck (air filter, glow plug, cluth, the whole 9) Spare set of Front tires and wheels, mounted ready to go (slightly used) Wheels are Proline, Tires are Proline The Edge Ofna Racing Starter Box with BRAND NEW Hangar 9 battery for it All the manuals and the "How to tune your RC10GT" VHS Tape A Bag of air filters (with bottle of filter oil) (Probably 4 filter assembly's Ziploc bag of Misc. Part including- Spur Gear, 2 Carbs, Brake Disc, few Clutch bells, Some Fuel tubing, lightweight flywheel. Pictures:

If your running 4 gauge put a 120 in it and go on. I don't care if your amp has 500 amps of fusing if you run 4 gauge put a 120 amp fuse in it. Remember you fuse for the wire not the equipment. 4 gauge is good for a fuse up to around 120-130 amps. Which means whoever said you need bigger wire is correct. Because you put a 120 amp fuse in your power wire and each amp is pulling 90 amps which is 180 combined, all your going to do is blow inline fuses or you have a chance of melting your wire and starting a fire.

If it was me I'd double up more than the top. As for the resin, yes you can brush it on and cover then in the corners you just tilt the box and pour it in to get the 45.

Trust me if RF gets offended because someone left their demo car to see a Tahoe that is running RF gear imo how it was meant to be ran then they are crazy. If I owned a company and someone like you was running my gear I'd be honored at a show if people left my car to swarm yours because they will eventually be back to buy what you've got.

I meant put the drain plug back in not physically go buy a new one. And I usually always put oil into the filter. I guess it's all in the way you learn.

I've got a question? How can you drain the oil put a new filter on, put the plug in and slam the hood? Am I the only one that puts a quart in the filter before screwing it on and dabbing it around the O-ring on the filter so they come off easier? I mean honestly it's a simple process. Drain oil, remove filter, replace drain plug, fill filter with oil, lube o-ring, screw filter on, then since you've already opened a quart any competent person puts the other 4 in.

I don't know how many of you like Tech but the new album Killer is good just like every Tech album. It's a 2 disc album. I've been listening to it the past couple days and I'm loving it.

I'd do what Randy said. You can get more port area that way and you won't have phasing issues. I can see that angled one having cancellation and phasing issues inside the box because one sub Is pretty much free-airing into the port while the other has sort of a loading wall.

Wait Roscoe aren't you mistaken? It's 98.9 the rock night at banana joe's so isn't is 98 cent longnecks? I've only been there a couple times but I think that's the case. HAHA that 2cents doesn't count until you go to penny night. LOL

Thanks for the info Jacob. I responded to your email.

Can Jacob chime in on that? I looked on *** and didn't see where it specified.

What will a strapped pair do at 2ohm? 6200-6400? Also, when i strap the pair do I turn the phase 180 on the Slave amplifier? I know you do on my orion's but I didn't know how that BR ouput worked and if it did or not.

The remote knob is a good point and since I'm going to be needing it so i can set my gains then turn it down daily and then turn it up for comps it would be much more convenient to turn it down and up with a knob than screwdriver and dmm. What will a strapped pair do at 2ohm? 6200-6400?

Alright thanks. I wanted to make sure because I don't see spending $1800 in amps for them to fry. I am pretty experienced and I know your products are goot so I figured if I watched it and kept the gains down for daily I should be alright I just wanted to check. You guys are right Jacob is a good guy. Thanks

Well I'm definately not going to be playing Bass Mekanik full tilt for an entire cd or anything like that. I will more than likely turn the amps down for daily listening and then when I do bass race turn them up so, it won't be hard pounding all day. I will more than likely listen to music for 30 minutes tops at a time and not full tilt. If it comes down to it I may actually run one 3000 daily and 2 for bass race it just depends. I figured with 250 amps and a bank of 4 2400's I should be alright. Am I wrong? So I guess to answer you question in short I'm not going to drive them to their fullest hours on end.