CUT BUDDY

oh and would a 225 Iraggi with 2-PWM D3100s in the rear and a D1200 under the hood be sufficient?

I may be getting a refurbed T4K from High Dessert and (2) refurbed T3002 from High Dessert as well. You know the T4k needs a 500amp fuse and each T3002 takes a 80amp fuse, which gives me a grand total of 660amps worth of fuses needed in my runs between my front battery and my rear batteries. Now as you guys know they dont make odd numbered fuses so Im kind of confused on how Im going to match up 660amps in my runs. The only thing I can think of is the (2) T3002s are 1ohm amps as well but I would only be running them in 4ohm so the 2 smaller amps will be nowehere near 80amps each when being played. So My question is would 2-300amp fuses (600amps.....) do considering the only amp that will be wide open in 1ohm is the T4k and the other smaller T3002s in 4ohm. I was reading that the avg rms on the T3002 @4ohm is around 220rms x 2. So Im thinking that a 80amp fuses wouldnt be necessary for just 500watts. What do u guys think? note: I would still do a 80amp fuse on the smaller amp from the rear batteries to the amp as suggested from RF but just a smaller fuse between my front to rear runs

Oh, Im sorry I didnt read ur whole question, I thought u were asking could the BTL handle 2500rms. Ok u want to if the BL can handle 2500. I wouldnt try it. The most Id do is around 1800 and thats on a full loaded one. Go to youtube and pull up that guy with 2-BL15s pushed by a 3000watt VFL200.1 and see how its knocking the dust out of his Explorer. The reason why the BTL can take so much is because I think the spider is bigger plus the 3rd mag handles the power excursion wise....BLs dont have a 3rd mag option. Id stick to 1500-1800.......2k and up is for the BTLs. Im sure someone else is gonna come behind me and tell u the same thing.

Thats like asking can Mini Me shread Rosanne Bar. The only way u can shread a BTL off 2500rms is if u have a trashy signal. Ive seen guys with the stock BTL (with absolutely no options) with 2500rms with no probs, but me personally Id get everything but if u wanted to be modest Id atleast get the cooling. I say get everything becaue u never know when ur gonna get tired of that 2500rms and wanna move up to 3500rms. So far as mounting depth and displacement with the 3rd mag....I was told it adds an extra inch maybe 1.25" and it would probably add another 0.05 to the displacement of the woofer.

Ok, the reason why that one is so much is because it has a alarm built in. Id buy a Autotloc kit from somewhere else for a 3rd of the price and get my own alarm.

Autotloc makes the best kits. I have the 2dr kit......several of my boys have had Autotloc on their rides for yrs with no probs. Heavy Duty is the key. I paid a lil under 140 for my kit and Ive seen the 4dr kits for around 200. Stay with the 65lb and up Autoloc. And with that said; ur kit can be the best in the world but ur installer can cause problems just as bad as a cheap kit. In otherwords make sure u take it to someone who does excellent electrical work. Imma try to find the place where I got my kit from.

lol, u need to be selling life insurance homie. I still havent made up my mind yet. Hell I might see something else totally different and jump on that, never know. May come into some money and spring 2-Sundown3KDs. Never know, man. Whatever I end up with is gonna be a earth shaker though. Not saying the Goliath isnt because I know it is, I just dont wanna jump on anything too early. Im still comparing and scratching my head. And most inportantly still stacking my chip...getting closer but not quite there just yet

LOL, I can get a XXV-Goliath for $1150 shipped, but I would think I would get a cleaner sound with the VFL or the RF. Trust me Ive already considered the Goliath but I havent ruled it out all together just yet.

But @ the same time I know where I can get a brand new T4k for 1350 shipped and a match dat shit up with a T3002 for my highs. Only thing is it has a in house 1yr warranty.

Thats whats up. The guy from American Bass quoted me a lil under 1300 shipped because there isnt a American Bass dealer anywhere near me. I forgot to ask him how much he wanted for the SQ-780 amp to push my comp set. Thats rated at 260x2@4ohm. Do u guys think 1300 is a reasonable price? Im trying to run (2)loaded BTL 15s with (1)CDT HD-6US comp set. Yukon, have u used them daily? Ive seen on Youtube where a guy had a VFL200 pushing 2 BL 15s in a Explorer and that shit looked like his roof was going to bend in half. This is going in a 2dr trunked vehicle but since I was just using 1 comp set up front and no rear fills; I was going to use the rear deck for a trunk port ....(2) 4x10" rectangular openings with beveled edges. Subs up/port back

3Iraggi's, 6-BTL 15s and 6-T4k's....but then I woke up this morning and scratched my ass

What do u guys know about the American Bass VFL400.1. Ive seen pretty good comments about them. I was considering a T40001BD but now seeing this amp Im curious. I was quoted close to 1300shipped from them directly and that aint bad at all. Especially if I can get around 4500rms+ out of it and depending on how much they want for a small amp (SQ-780). Any insite or comments on this amp or opinions on wether or not u think it would compare up to the T40001BD?

for instance on my build.....Im pressed for room too. I wont be able to do any bracing but I will double baffle and use a lil more resin and matting to make up for it. Imma tripple mat the inside and even put a layer of mat on the outside. I know I wont need it but I can still use it because it will make it that much stronger.

No, u'll still need to mat the flat parts(walls and floors). It u use just the resin by itself then it will crack under pressure. If u use mat and resin it will be hella strong. Strong enough to jump up and down on the box and it wont budge.

x100 a warranty is a warranty no matter who is giving it because all the warranties are the same just some are longer than others. Most of the T30001BDs Ive seen are about $1000 new. HighDesert's are refurbished which is nothing wrong with that.....I just think why buy a $850 refurb when u can spend a extra $150 for new. Some other amps that would be good are two Sundown 1500Ds which will run u a lil over 800 for both, a MTX TA92001 which runs about a grand but u can find them for about $750, Autotek MM3000.1D is a beast for $800....and the list goes on.

Ive heard the T2 and it is a impressive sub but I dont think it is worth them money RF is asking for it. Id go with the BL. So far as the T2....me personally, I refuse to pay over $400 for a sub that u can buy from Best Buy or Curcuit City. If Im spending that much it needs to be something that doesnt sell on shelves....like TCsounds, Fi etc.... RF wants almost as much money for their T2 as what Fi is asking for their "fully loaded" BTL. And we all know a T2 is no where near the same level of performance and power handling as a fully loaded BTL but its in the same price range which is rediculous. Id get the BL

U get Fi subs from Fi. No going down to the local shop and crap like that.....u get them straight from the Fi folks themselves.

I cant seal it off because the box would be so big and it would take up about 85-90% on my trunk. (Im not doing rear fills so the 4x10" openings on the rear deck will be used to let air into the cabin). 1.....I can do 2-BTL12s sub/port back and have about a foot between the subs/port and the rear of the trunk with about 2500-3000rms each. 2......I can do 3-BL12s with subs facing up about 4" under the rear deck and have areo ports facing back with about 1700rms each. Or 3....I can have 2-BL 15s facing up about 2.5" under the rear deck with aero ports facing back with about 2000rms each. Which do u guys think would be louder?

U guys who have experience with trunked cars; what is louder.....subs back/ slotted port back or subs back/aero port facing the side of the trunk?

or yea u could glass the outside too and paint it with automotive paint just like ur car....now that would be hot. Especially if u had a overlay vanity panel to go on top of it so ur amps would be flush

I do the front in suede or leather and cover the rest in carpet. Id still fiberglass the inside though to give it more strength

Thank u Sean371 .....I didnt ask the question. And if u read my last statement I said "Im sure somebody else feels different". Meaning that I feel the 2 15s would be louder but if I were looking for 15s then "I" would get 9500s before I bought T2s because they are cheaper and they get just as loud and sound better doing it. and before u say it...Yes I have heard both...thats y I said that. But its not my thread so I didnt start out talking about T2s and switched to MTXs.

I think the 18 would sound better but Im pretty sure those T2s would be louder. Id do the 2 T2s with a T20001BD.....that will give em anywhere from 1100rms-1400rms each. But to tell u the truth Id do 2-MTX 9500s before Id do the T2s.....because it will sound just as loud if not louder and they are about $50 cheaper a woofer. Plus Ive heard both and the 9500s sound better than the T2s (to me...Im sure somebody else feels different).

U can get a Rockford T15002BD for around $600 and run 2 subs per channel because its a 2 channel amp....That amp is rated 750x2@1ohm but the test sheets say more like [email protected] u would get about 500-600 rms to each sub. Or yea like they said before the Kicker would be good too. But if u want something real nice then I think u may wanna up ur budget on that amp a lil more.

I got a black 30gig too. Niiiice